Stemar
Well-Known Member
My domestic battery is showing signs of fatigue after it got knocked down to about 3v a few weeks ago. It charged up OK, but was very tired after only 36 hours of light use, when it usually lasts the best part of a week. It’s a few years old, so it doesn’t really owe us anything, but I’d like to get the best replacement for my setup.
The boat’s a Snapdragon 24 with a 55 amp alternator and a dedicated 35AH starter battery. The current domestic battery’s a 85AH “leisure” battery charged by a simple relay run off the wire between the charge warning light and the field coil. I haven’t got any sort of clever charge booster, but do have plans to add a 20w or so solar panel next year. I’ve space for a bigger battery, probably up to 120AH and could find more space, but on a small boat, weight starts to become an issue – we already get a list to port when we’re both sitting at the dinette and a heavier battery isn’t going to help!
Needs are modest. Lighting, mostly LED, a car stereo, water pressure pump and a tiller pilot are about it, but I do want to retain the option to start the engine (VP2003) from the domestic battery in case of problems with the starter battery. I have an electric cold-box, but don’t usually plug it in unless the engine’s running.
Current thoughts are to get the biggest battery I can afford. I understand that AGM or gel batteries aren’t going to give their best without a clever charger and I’m not sure of cost effectiveness of one on a little boat like mine.
I understand the theoretical difference between car batteries and deep cycle ones, and leisure batteries appear to be a cross between the two, but are they Jacks of all trades and masters of none, or are they a good compromise? One such advertised on the internet claimed 300 recharge cycles compared with 100-150 from the competition, but even 300 cycles doesn't seem much unless it's down to almost flat.
I see that lot of true deep-cycle batteries don’t quote CCA capacities. Is this because it’s irrelevant to their application, or would they be damaged by the demands of starting the donk occasionally? Even with the correct cold-start procedure, it can take a lot of churning on a cold day, which is, according to Sod’s Law, when the starter battery’s most likely to need help.
Final question. Is a Varta or Trojan battery worth the extra compared with a middle of the road one, or even a Halfords special? I could throw away a couple of cheap leisure batteries and still be in pocket compared with a top of the range one.
Any thoughts, especially from folk with expert knowledge appreciated.
Thanks
Confused of London
The boat’s a Snapdragon 24 with a 55 amp alternator and a dedicated 35AH starter battery. The current domestic battery’s a 85AH “leisure” battery charged by a simple relay run off the wire between the charge warning light and the field coil. I haven’t got any sort of clever charge booster, but do have plans to add a 20w or so solar panel next year. I’ve space for a bigger battery, probably up to 120AH and could find more space, but on a small boat, weight starts to become an issue – we already get a list to port when we’re both sitting at the dinette and a heavier battery isn’t going to help!
Needs are modest. Lighting, mostly LED, a car stereo, water pressure pump and a tiller pilot are about it, but I do want to retain the option to start the engine (VP2003) from the domestic battery in case of problems with the starter battery. I have an electric cold-box, but don’t usually plug it in unless the engine’s running.
Current thoughts are to get the biggest battery I can afford. I understand that AGM or gel batteries aren’t going to give their best without a clever charger and I’m not sure of cost effectiveness of one on a little boat like mine.
I understand the theoretical difference between car batteries and deep cycle ones, and leisure batteries appear to be a cross between the two, but are they Jacks of all trades and masters of none, or are they a good compromise? One such advertised on the internet claimed 300 recharge cycles compared with 100-150 from the competition, but even 300 cycles doesn't seem much unless it's down to almost flat.
I see that lot of true deep-cycle batteries don’t quote CCA capacities. Is this because it’s irrelevant to their application, or would they be damaged by the demands of starting the donk occasionally? Even with the correct cold-start procedure, it can take a lot of churning on a cold day, which is, according to Sod’s Law, when the starter battery’s most likely to need help.
Final question. Is a Varta or Trojan battery worth the extra compared with a middle of the road one, or even a Halfords special? I could throw away a couple of cheap leisure batteries and still be in pocket compared with a top of the range one.
Any thoughts, especially from folk with expert knowledge appreciated.
Thanks
Confused of London