Does this look ok..Fairleads/bollard?

[waynes world]

Drawn this up quick, the locker will not be built from poly foam sheet though lol.

The post area is 8 inch square and up against the rear locker wall.

inside

Sketch

 

[Bouba]

Drawn this up quick, the locker will not be built from poly foam sheet though lol.

The post area is 8 inch square and up against the rear locker wall.

inside

Sketch

]

If you have a cleat in the anchor locker, vertical and fixed straight through the bow. With a stainless steel backing plate on the outside of the bow. This gives something to tie the end of the rode on so you don't accidentally chuck all your ground tackle overboard. And there is enough room on the cleat to tie off your rode (rope or chain) at the suitable length when anchoring.

 

[MapisM]

So if i use no bollard for the anchor line to go to from the roller then i take the anchor line direct to a cleat either side of the bow?

So anchor rope tied direct to a bow cleat, nothing else needed.

Sorry, I didn't notice your mention of the bow roller in your OP.
It must be because in my mind I tend to associate it with chain-only anchors, handled with a windlass.
In fact, with all my smallish lake boats, I used to keep the anchor stored in the locker, together with its chain+line, without any roller (hence my suggestion to just secure the anchor line to one cleat directly).

If you wish to keep your anchor on the roller, but you have no windlass, in your boots I would consider one of those rollers which incorporate a cleat to secure the line.
And for mooring, I rest my case on fitting just two cleats instead of the fairleads, without the nice looking but actually deck-cluttering bollard.

Just my 2c... Lovely boat anyway, looking forward to seeing more pics! :encouragement:

 

[Lon nan Gruagach]

If you can be without the bollard, do so, its rather unpleasant when you kneel on one.
If you do keep the bollard be sure that the line from it to the cleats does not go over the locker hatch. There will be a day when you want to open the hatch while there is a taut line across it.
MapisM's suggestion of a bow roller with incorporated cleat sound like pure heaven to me.

Dont be too panicked by the size of what you have. My Hurley 20 has been on a swinging mooring in F7 (that I know of) without loss of sleep. It has fairleads and bollard as your original plan.

edit add:

As for fairleads vs cleats. I also have been on a 15m ally sail boat that has cleats, no problems at all. You dont have to lean over since the rode comes up to the cleat, figure 8 with a locking turn, then the free end which is all you need to get to when releasing it.

 

[waynes world]

Sorry, I didn't notice your mention of the bow roller in your OP.
It must be because in my mind I tend to associate it with chain-only anchors, handled with a windlass.
In fact, with all my smallish lake boats, I used to keep the anchor stored in the locker, together with its chain+line, without any roller (hence my suggestion to just secure the anchor line to one cleat directly).

If you wish to keep your anchor on the roller, but you have no windlass, in your boots I would consider one of those rollers which incorporate a cleat to secure the line.
And for mooring, I rest my case on fitting just two cleats instead of the fairleads, without the nice looking but actually deck-cluttering bollard.

Just my 2c... Lovely boat anyway, looking forward to seeing more pics! :encouragement:

I lie the sound of the roller with built in cleat but i cant find any, do they have a specific name.

If you can be without the bollard, do so, its rather unpleasant when you kneel on one.
If you do keep the bollard be sure that the line from it to the cleats does not go over the locker hatch. There will be a day when you want to open the hatch while there is a taut line across it.
MapisM's suggestion of a bow roller with incorporated cleat sound like pure heaven to me.

Dont be too panicked by the size of what you have. My Hurley 20 has been on a swinging mooring in F7 (that I know of) without loss of sleep. It has fairleads and bollard as your original plan.

edit add:

As for fairleads vs cleats. I also have been on a 15m ally sail boat that has cleats, no problems at all. You dont have to lean over since the rode comes up to the cleat, figure 8 with a locking turn, then the free end which is all you need to get to when releasing it.

Good point on the line not gong over the locker, in the second pic with the fairleads to the side it will be fine, but not my original idea. Thansk for that pointer.

The cleats and fairleads are all 6 inch, they are big enough for the canal i know that but wasnt sure after Bruce mentioned the sie of them. I did look on the net and it is recomended that 156mm - 200 mm are better, or needed, that could be for a sail boat though. I dont tend to go out in a big swell, or go out fare enough to get caught out, maybe 500 yards lol.

 

[BruceK]

Not to put the wind up you Dougal, F7 is practically balmy here. I'll happily anchor up to 8 and 9 and do so regularly. Its the effect of tide and swell when the wind is blowing. In Conwy on a big tide the ebb at its fastest can get to 6 knts plus and submerge the mooring bouys. When it meets a strong wind in wind over tide the chop can be ferocious. The constant slamming of the bow and snatching of the strop can produce some really significant loads.

 

[TheOrs]

Could you not do something like this?
(Ignore mooring ropes in pic). Anchor goes out and anchor rope goes through roller and cleated off.
Anchor hatch lid can be operated whilst anchored.

Or am I misunderstanding?

ETA: End of anchor rope is attached to shackle bolted into base of locker

 

[waynes world]

If you have a cleat in the anchor locker, vertical and fixed straight through the bow. With a stainless steel backing plate on the outside of the bow. This gives something to tie the end of the rode on so you don't accidentally chuck all your ground tackle overboard. And there is enough room on the cleat to tie off your rode (rope or chain) at the suitable length when anchoring.

Sorted. Cleats between rails legs, anchor locker with a 18mm ply back that has a cleat bolted on for anchoring and rode direct out the locker to roller.. will have the cleat high enough so the rode does not catch the locker edge when in use, the recovery eye bolt that is there will protrude in the locker as i will lower the front of the locker base down and this will have an eye nut on for the safety attachment incase of all rode going over.


Thoughts

 

[MapisM]

I lie the sound of the roller with built in cleat but i cant find any, do they have a specific name.

That's a good question indeed.
I tried to throw "bow roller"+cleat into google, but all I found is some stuff like the one below, which might be ok for your application, but isn't exactly what I had in mind.
Which is something I saw on a sailboat several years ago, with two proper cleats on each side of the bow roller.
But I didn't look at the brand, and neither I can think of a better way to google it, nor I can reach the owner anymore, sorry.
Btw, coming to think of it, it could have been fabricated...

 

[Bouba]

This is the only photo I could find online.
The cleat inside the locker is mounted vertically. Your set up will be much simpler, because in the photo the cleat goes through a bulkhead. Yours would be directly on the bow. Drill two bolt holes through the bow and on the front of the boat put a SS backing plate.

 

[Bouba]

Ps. A bow roller is much nicer and don't forget to put a drain hole in the chain locker

 

[sarabande]

ETA: End of anchor rope is attached to shackle bolted into base of locker

Best practice probably means that is OK for a rope ( as it can be cut ) but not for a chain, which should be made fast by a length of rope leading up to the deck level.

 

[BruceK]

These are locally fabricated to spec but by a metal fabrication shop and not marine. As such it's an unknown commodity. For one the bollard strikes me as being iffy.

http://100percentstainless.co.uk/contact-us/

 

[Mrnotming]

Hi all, i am setting out the deck fittings on my 20 foot cruiser and i have decidedto fit a chain locker so the hatch will be where the Bollard was.
What i have done is move the Bollard back and the fairleads will be up the front on the bow. This way also the rope will not chaff on the risen gunnel edge as this is level at the point. You can see in the pics.

The locker hatch will be inbetween the bollard and where the bow roller will be.

After just a quick size up again, the bollard will be further back still about 8inch as the bowroller arms are around 400-500mm, this will then give me a locker hatch of 16 inch.

Oh is this the correct way around for the Fairleads?

Thanks all

Wayne

I find that closed fairleads,or ones with S/S trapping bars offset are most useful if using canal or sea locks where the lead of lines will be from above before the lock closes and fills.Same applies if mooring in say Port S.Mary IOM where the tidal range means rafting boats maybe 20 ft below as tide ebbs.so some form of diagonal closure is needed allowing the rope to be slipped in but then captive until slacked off allowing removal.No matter where you do your boating open fairleads are largely useless unless on a pontoon or finger mooring which allows a downward trajectory for the mooring lines.
Hope this is helpful,it is intended to be so!

 

[RobWales]

These are locally fabricated to spec but by a metal fabrication shop and not marine. As such it's an unknown commodity. For one the bollard strikes me as being iffy.

http://100percentstainless.co.uk/contact-us/

Marine fabrication or standard fabrication shop will make no real differnce as long as the material is of the correct specification i.e 316 grade, welding wire needs also be same standard, cross contamination with carbon steels can be an issue......spot rusting in areas that may have come into contact with carbon steels or perhaps abrasives that have been used on previous carbon steels jobs.....
Welds look neat IMHO and ref the bollard.....it's all going to depend on the integrity of the main weld to the plate....fillet weld? part penetration weld? or full penetration? hard to tell from a photo alone.
Rob.

 

[omega2]

From the look of the boat I assume you will fishing with it? many many deployments of anchor, so why not go this way?

https://youtu.be/-7v8uiDWFnE

or go the whole hog and fit a warping drum, and pull the hook into the bow roller.

This shows a better view as fitted to our previous boat.

saves a lot of work and trouble free! no assistance required.

 

[waynes world]

There is no reason why i cant make a bow roller plate and either bolt or weld a cleat at the back of it. Just making more work for myself as T says.
If i go with the cleat at the top rear of the locker i can just get a basic bow roller and tie off on the cleat when anchoring.

Anyhow, just having a brew after shopping and then off to build the locker


Thanks all for the help and advice, as always very much appreciated

 

[waynes world]

Yes a bit of fishing will be done, i have seen the Alderney ring recovery many years ago, look nice and easy set up to retrieve. A few folk said it can be tricky to get used to as not to run over the rope and mash the prop. Takes it a case of being carefull.

 

[Vitesse]

I do like the way the design for WW's locker has evolved. It's great reading these threads

Do you intend to store the anchor in the locker as well WW?

 

[waynes world]

I do like the way the design for WW's locker has evolved. It's great reading these threads

Do you intend to store the anchor in the locker as well WW?

Plan was to store the anchor on the roller, now it will be kept in the locker, no bollard and just cleats ......for now, i do change my mind often lol