Does this look ok..Fairleads/bollard?

waynes world

waynes world

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Hi all, i am setting out the deck fittings on my 20 foot cruiser and i have decidedto fit a chain locker so the hatch will be where the Bollard was.
What i have done is move the Bollard back and the fairleads will be up the front on the bow. This way also the rope will not chaff on the risen gunnel edge as this is level at the point. You can see in the pics.

The locker hatch will be inbetween the bollard and where the bow roller will be.

After just a quick size up again, the bollard will be further back still about 8inch as the bowroller arms are around 400-500mm, this will then give me a locker hatch of 16 inch.

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Oh is this the correct way around for the Fairleads?

Thanks all

Wayne :)
 
Isn't it simpler to fit directly two cleats where the fairleads are, and not bother with the bollard at all?
 
MapisM said:
Isn't it simpler to fit directly two cleats where the fairleads are, and not bother with the bollard at all?
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Don't agree.

If he did that, then to pull up the anchor he would have to lean overboard to grip it outside the boat. Leaning under the pulpit with a slippery deck etc, that sounds like a recipe for disaster
 
if you use open fairleads in a lock, there's a risk the rope will slip out as the water level goes down. Backing plates can never be too big :)
 
Having the fairleads so far forward means that mooring ropes will constantly chafe on the pulpit or hull if you run any lines aft. Better to have them much further back between the pulpit legs. You would also be better off with straight fairleads rather the offset ones.
 
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MapisM said:
Isn't it simpler to fit directly two cleats where the fairleads are, and not bother with the bollard at all?
Click to expand...
I kind of agree. A Samson post looks good very boaty (as your pictures show). But it's just extra work, with the reinforcement etc and the post and the ropes are just more things to trip over on a very small fore deck.
Great work by the way.
 
MapisM said:
Isn't it simpler to fit directly two cleats where the fairleads are, and not bother with the bollard at all?
Click to expand...

Where do i tie back the anchor line to though?

PCUK said:
Having the fairleads so far forward means that mooring ropes will constantly chafe on the pulpit or hull if you run any lines aft. Better to have them much further back between the pulpit legs. You would also be better off with straight fairleads rather the offset ones.
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Good point, never moored that way though, only as never had to. Always will be a time when i need to though i guess.
Here then. It was my first thought but i didnt want to much rubbing on the gunnel edge, i can always make some SS capping.

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sarabande said:
if you use open fairleads in a lock, there's a risk the rope will slip out as the water level goes down. Backing plates can never be too big :)
Click to expand...

when i go on the cut i always used to use a central cleat, works great when locking on your own. Dont think i will be fitting one on this boat though.
 
waynes world said:
Where do i tie back the anchor line to though?
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I struggle to answer your question because I can't for the life of me understand what your (and davidej, apparently) concern is.
Why any line (mooring, anchor, whatever) which you would normally attach to the bollard and pass through the fairlead in your initial proposal couldn't be attached directly to cleats in place of the fairleads ?
Btw, that would give you the option of handling two lines in a completely independent way.
 
You've spoken previously about taking up a mooring in Conwy River IIRC in which case you should consider where you will run your mooring strop as a primary concern and whether you want to use a bridle or stanchion post when selecting fairleads, cleats or post. Those all look a bit small at the moment tbh.
 
MapisM said:
I struggle to answer your question because I can't for the life of me understand what your (and davidej, apparently) concern is.
Why any line (mooring, anchor, whatever) which you would normally attach to the bollard and pass through the fairlead in your initial proposal couldn't be attached directly to cleats in place of the fairleads ?
Btw, that would give you the option of handling two lines in a completely independent way.
Click to expand...

So if i use no bollard for the anchor line to go to from the roller then i take the anchor line direct to a cleat either side of the bow?

So anchor rope tied direct to a bow cleat, nothing else needed.



BruceK said:
You've spoken previously about taking up a mooring in Conwy River IIRC in which case you should consider where you will run your mooring strop as a primary concern and whether you want to use a bridle or stanchion post when selecting fairleads, cleats or post. Those all look a bit small at the moment tbh.
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Hi Bruce, what fitting would you suggest, size and style for this kind of work.
 
A stanchion post / samson post should not be deck mounted but go through and be glassed in to the hull. As this is not practical in some instances it is further forward and is glassed into the V of the bow. When the short chop comes in on the N westers you stand every chance of ripping that bollard affair out. This last N Wester we lost a pontoon with six boats on, one sunk and my pontoon was buckling under a 1m standing wave. Moored boats faired much better but a lot of lines chaffed through, another reason to have the stanchion post as far forward as possible to eliminate it. Those fairleads dont look like they can accommodate a 2.5 inch strop either so a bridle is out unless you beef them up. Alternatively you can try for a pontoon but the waiting list is getting long despite them silting up. Moorings in the Menai have their own issues in southerlies below the bridges and Beaumarris gets it bad in anything N to NW.
 
Bouba said:
I kind of agree. A Samson post looks good very boaty (as your pictures show). But it's just extra work, with the reinforcement etc and the post and the ropes are just more things to trip over on a very small fore deck.
Great work by the way.
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The extra work is not big deal on this project lol. Infact when the chain locker is made the front deck will be a whole lot stronger and the Samson post will be just behind the locker wall, good and strong along with a spreader plate below.
 
Can you not place a chain locker off centre to the bow? or at least build it around a good stanchion post?

Just seen the above post, posted while writing. Can you not extend a stanchion post to the built in locker if beefy enough then?
 
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You have just put me off Conway lol. I will be laminating all pads in place good and well. Tell the truth where ever the /postbollard goes it will need a good laminating in as it is thin all over the bow untill you get to around the 3 inch edge.
 
BruceK said:
Can you not place a chain locker off centre to the bow? or at least build it around a good stanchion post?

Just seen the above post, posted while writing. Can you not extend a stanchion post to the built in locker if beefy enough then?
Click to expand...

I will draw my idea for the ocker and post set up, be easier, burrr with ;)
 
Unless you are in a marina or a canal you are just about always going to experience some wild weather Wayne :D and even in them I've seen some alarming moments.
 
:D Fair enough. Build it right and your worries diminish. Plenty boats in the river estuaries and on moorings. It's those that aren't up to it or maintained that struggle.
 
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