Does anyone know how a VP panel works?

Stu (& other N Wales forumites),

Gwynedd Distributors in the West end of Rhyl keep those bulbs - dare say other motor factors do too.

Andy
 
The Volvo alarm light logic 'block' is potted with epoxy or some such stuff. Not accessible without destruction. It looks to be the same as the one for my D2-55 2001 vintage. On mine there is some kind of delay in the logic block to stop the Alt/Chg light (and buzzer) coming on for about 15secs after the ignition is first switched on. I presume this is to stop the buzzer driving you mad whilst you should be holding the pre-heat switch on before hitting the start button. If the internal delay cct has gone haywire it could cause the light/buzzer to flash.

Still is sounds like a new potted logic block needed or disconnect the Alt warning circuit and create an external version. The diodes inside are mainly to allow one buzzer to be shared and to allow the alarm "Test" switch to operate all alarm lights to check the lamps and buzzer.
 
Ray
thanks for that, the delay is still working, it doesnt start buzzing etc until a few secs have elapsed (ie the normal delay) If i was to disconnect the charge light, attach it to another bulb, then connect the other side of the bulb to the positive? would that suffice?
Stu
 
I think it would. At least as a test it is worthwhile. The only thing missing compared to the actual cct would be a diode. Anode at the +12v to lamp to wire which was going to pin 1 on the logic block (pin 5 of the cable loom to the engine).

A test like that isolates the logic block from the discussion.
 
Deleted as the delay wasn't mentioned 'til later!
(But if you don't need it, an "OR" gate made of a diode per sensor will activate the squeaker when any is triggered)
 
Forgive my pedantic questions, connection 5 (in Vics pix) comes from the alternator thru the bulb, the other end comes from the positive at the top right of the logic block. The diode allows it to flow down but blocks it going back up, if it is charging the light goes out, because it is balanced? What causes it to squeak and flash? Could it be something to do with the box on the side of the engine? (I know the batteries are being charged because the voltage is there at the batteries)
Stu
 
Been wondering about your problems. It seems your panel may not be the same as the diagram as there is no provision there for a delay.

Also no means of making the light flash ! But wondering does the "buzzer" normally sound a continuous note or an pulsed note. If normally pulsed then perhaps the fault in your panel is making the light flash in time with the buzzer. Still does not help solve your trouble though.

There are some parts of that diagram that are not quite correct or at least not clear I discover having compared it with basically the same diagram in other VP manuals. Also discovered that the diode on the extreme right is a Zenner diode.

Regarding the charge warning light I see no reason why totally disconnecting the wiring to it at pin 5 of 16 and wiring in a independent bulb connected to +ve should not work. There may be other problems of course keeping a defective module in use.

I notice in the diagram I have posted (not noticed on ones I have studied before) that there is an extra connection from terminal 61 shown upper left to an extra terminal on the tach (brown wire) Suggests to me that some tachs may have provision for a charge warning light built into them. Could be useful to you if that applies to yours. May be totally wrong of course and that the connection is for something else. Can't think though what else would be interconnected with the warning light. (hour counter?)

Regrettably though the real answer to the problem assuming it genuinely is a fault in the electronic module is to replace it. Bit pricey though like most things from VP. Although some people pay more than that per month for a marina berth!
 
Vic
the squeak is continuous and now I think i am cracking up, im not so sure that the light isnt solid as well, which would make more sense. will take the wiring diag with me this weekend and use the meter to check it out more. Looking at the simpler diag for the md22 it looks like a straight line from the alternator lug marked 61 to the module, thru the bulb, thru a diode, to the positive. the 61 terminal on the module is not connected on mine but the connection branches internally in the module to this pin, i suppose if i put the meter on it it should show a voltage the same as the power from the ign switch to the module when it is running, if it doesnt then the charge isnt getting to the module although the batteries see plus 14v when the sterling ramps up
Stu
 
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