Do you use an anchor snubber?

My setup as it's used at present. It used to run from the stern cleat but due to chafe damage I had to trim it back a couple of feet and it's a little short now. I think this works a little better as it's no longer running along the side deck and it's freed up a couple of blocks it used to run through. I do intend to put some nice stainless strips at the edge of the deck to stop further chafe there and protect the boat itself.

View attachment 81231...........View attachment 81233

This is what we do, except we take the bridle right over the side not through the fairleads, as we already have stainless steel rubstrips on the gunwale.
 
Same here, except I also put the snubber through a length of hosepipe. The snubber through the fairlead puts a wearpoint kink in the line, especially with no hose over it.

Yep, a canvas chafe pad on each side in our case although I might do something different on the next version. If things get really exciting I’ve seen fairleads damaged or even pulled out so prefer a straight line pull.

We don’t have eyesplices in ours for the cleats, just a plain end we take round the cleats so we can adjust it and also remove under load if needed.
 
Yep, a canvas chafe pad on each side in our case although I might do something different on the next version. If things get really exciting I’ve seen fairleads damaged or even pulled out so prefer a straight line pull.

We don’t have eyesplices in ours for the cleats, just a plain end we take round the cleats so we can adjust it and also remove under load if needed.

One way of arranging a straight line pull is, possibly, to take the snubber through the toe rail, at an appropriate gap (amidships cleat?) and then have a LFR further forward to 'retain' the snubber - this means you can have a wider base to your 'V'. But you do need to commence at the transom - or start at the bow, run aft to a turning block - and then run forward.

And in case of excitement - if the snubber (bridle arm) is long enough - take it round a winch - then a 10 year old can handle it.

Lots of options.

If you have a bob stay - even more options (and advantages). If you have a bob-stay - and are interested - send me a PM.

Jonathan
 
One way of arranging a straight line pull is, possibly, to take the snubber through the toe rail, at an appropriate gap (amidships cleat?) and then have a LFR further forward to 'retain' the snubber - this means you can have a wider base to your 'V'. But you do need to commence at the transom - or start at the bow, run aft to a turning block - and then run forward.

And in case of excitement - if the snubber (bridle arm) is long enough - take it round a winch - then a 10 year old can handle it.

Lots of options.

If you have a bob stay - even more options (and advantages). If you have a bob-stay - and are interested - send me a PM.

Jonathan

Sorry Jonathan can you tell me what a LFR is? I'll probably kick myself when you tell me.
 
Sorry Jonathan can you tell me what a LFR is? I'll probably kick myself when you tell me.

That dates you like me - you really need to keep up to date. You will tell all next - that you don't use soft shackles either.

Low Friction Rings - it was new to me as well - but I thought I was the only one who did not know :) - and had to ask what people used them for!

Jonathan
 
That dates you like me - you really need to keep up to date. You will tell all next - that you don't use soft shackles either.

Low Friction Rings - it was new to me as well - but I thought I was the only one who did not know :) - and had to ask what people used them for!

Jonathan

LFR ha! I've got one of those but with surgery it can be sorted apparently. As for soft shackles I do know what they are but no you're right i don't have any.
 
Same here, except I also put the snubber through a length of hosepipe. The snubber through the fairlead puts a wearpoint kink in the line, especially with no hose over it.

Another option is to use a short length of Dyneema.

So our snubber has a long length of nylon for stretch and short length of Acera (generic Dyneema) as it passes over the bow roller. The Acera has better chafe protection than nylon and has a much higher breaking strain so even with some chafe it is stronger than the nylon.

It is light, easy to handle and keep clean and removes any overheating concerns of covered nylon.
 
Another option is to use a short length of Dyneema.

So our snubber has a long length of nylon for stretch and short length of Acera (generic Dyneema) as it passes over the bow roller. The Acera has better chafe protection than nylon and has a much higher breaking strain so even with some chafe it is stronger than the nylon.

It is light, easy to handle and keep clean and removes any overheating concerns of covered nylon.

What size, diameter, construction and length of snubber - and what diameter and construction of dyneema?

Jonathan
 
Not another one! We still think you need an anchor - chain by itself simply does not work for us! :)

Chain might be considered new tech.

if you go back, to not very long ago - chain was simply not used - anchor rodes were all rope (and the rope was a natural fibre). The big move was to chain but in the leisure industry chain hardly became mainstream until the windlass, even a manual windlass was hard work (unless you could afford to pay for crew.) The electric windlass changed everything and chain could then rule. But having a reliable, cheap electric windlass is fairly recent (though 'recent' depends on how old you are :).

All that has happened is some of us have moved 'back to the future' or is it 'forward to the past' and are attempting to marry, with different combinations, the best of cordage with the best of chain - for our specific yachts.

The problem(s) I had with a mixed rode were how much chain and how much cordage and I was never happy with the idea of saturated cordage (not only seawater but muddy seawater (that I now know could be anaerobic mud) sitting on top of a steel chain. I could see the benefits, cheaper, lighter - but the downsides were quite onerous. Now, with 2 snubbers (call it a bridle) I can deploy as much chain, as much snubber - keep the snubber out of the mud and store each totally independently. No matter how or what snubber I use - my back up is always the chain.

Call me a Luddite (but hedging my bets).

Jonathan
 
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That dates you like me - you really need to keep up to date. You will tell all next - that you don't use soft shackles either.

Low Friction Rings - it was new to me as well - but I thought I was the only one who did not know :) - and had to ask what people used them for!

Jonathan

I had to go look it up too - although I knew what they were once I connected the acronym to reality
 
One way of arranging a straight line pull is, possibly, to take the snubber through the toe rail, at an appropriate gap (amidships cleat?) and then have a LFR further forward to 'retain' the snubber - this means you can have a wider base to your 'V'. But you do need to commence at the transom - or start at the bow, run aft to a turning block - and then run forward.

And in case of excitement - if the snubber (bridle arm) is long enough - take it round a winch - then a 10 year old can handle it.

Lots of options.

If you have a bob stay - even more options (and advantages). If you have a bob-stay - and are interested - send me a PM.

Jonathan

Thanks, yes, I’ll have to go down and have one of those voyages where you stand there looking at the boat scratching your head wondering how it might work.

No bob stay, so any valuable insights would, sadly, be wasted on me :)
 
Soft shackles are great :cool:

So are conventional shackles!

A problem of soft shackles is that they can, in some instances, replace conventional shackles - this leaves you with some spare conventional shackles - negating the need for more soft shackles unless you are contriving new uses.

An advantage of soft shackles is that they can be any length you want and are light - and in some snubber applications, getting the thread back, near, on track this can be invaluable. You do need to be thinking 'outside the box' and considering commencing the snubber well behind the bow roller, transom, amidships cleat - and then soft shackles can come into their own.

Jonathan
 
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