Do these Twist Socket Fastener Removal tools work?

Sockets

A proper socket . The type with the hexagonal inside would probably do the same job . The ones that have multi indentations and arrive by Felixtowe are the ones that round them off in the first place so if you use proper tools you will not finish up trying to get a rounded head bolt out . IMHO . ;)
 
BJ4U said:
A proper socket . The type with the hexagonal inside would probably do the same job . The ones that have multi indentations and arrive by Felixtowe are the ones that round them off in the first place so if you use proper tools you will not finish up trying to get a rounded head bolt out . IMHO . ;)
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Oh right .... so the mechanic must have got his Snap On tools on the back of a wagon... or maybe the back of a boat!
Believe me it's got nothing to do with inferior quality tools being used but more likely 12years worth of salt water on mild steel. It seems to have tendency to take of the nice sharp edges of the nice shiny bolt heads.
 
i have had a problem getting a nut and bolt off, the sockets where useless as they would start to round off the head, so i used two mole grips and was able to release the nut and bolt, i also had to use some penetrating oil initially to try and free the nut and bolt.

if you have a bolt into an engine part then maybe you can use some penetrating oil initially then if you have room use a mole grip.
 
Yes, in a word, they do work - where heads of fasteners have corroded or rounded off or where the head has sheared off.

There are poor quality ones available these days which do not work as well as they lose the sharp edge on the flutes and so then fail to grip the fastener.

If however your bolts are just seized and the heads are undamaged these will do no more than an ordinary socket.
 
Yes they work, but they're kind-of vicious! I've used similar ones sold by Machine Mart. The problem is that they will, at best, render the fastener useless and at worst, shear it off leaving you with a sheared fastener to extract. If it's a corroded or rounded nut and bolt, I'd have no hesitation recommending them. If it's a bolt into a blind hole, or a nut on a stud, they're an absolute last resort. As has been said, use all other available means first - decent sockets, heat, penetrating oil, tapping with a hammer to try and break the threads free, working backwards and forwards...

I personally, don't like "Metrinch" sockets that much. Their curved "face drive" (sometimes called "flank drive" design is superb but because it's so good, they can take up the small difference betwen a metric and imperial fastener. However, they do this at the expense of being slightly loose on the smaller sized one. In a seized fastener situation, you want every chance you can get!
 
Avocet said:
I personally, don't like "Metrinch" sockets that much. Their curved "face drive" (sometimes called "flank drive" design is superb but because it's so good, they can take up the small difference betwen a metric and imperial fastener. However, they do this at the expense of being slightly loose on the smaller sized one. In a seized fastener situation, you want every chance you can get!
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I love my Metrinch spanners, but they're for damaged heads, not seized threads.
 
An air driven impact wrench takes a bit of beating when it comes to shifting a stubborn fastner.

ALWAYS use quality airgun sockets.

If you are desperate and the head is of the nut or bolt is damaged I have had success by looking for a slightly undersize socket eg 12mm instead of 1/2AF and hammering it on.[Snapon's lifetime warrenty may come in useful here.]
 
Seized studs

2 different problems. If the problem is a damaged hex head then yes maybe these sockets would be useful. But molegrips may be good too. However if the stud is really seized then you risk snapping the stud off in which case good spanners are no help. Then you need heat and penetrating oil and lots of luck. olewill
 
With respect to all you socket wrenchers, if a fasteneer wont come undone its the thread that is stuck and not the hex head giving a problem. Some heat from big soldering iron or gas torch can be enough to start things moving. If all else fails a cold chisel will usually sort the offending nut or bolt out!
 
If the spanner is not a tight fit on a nut or bolt, stop, or damage will result and you won't know whether the bolt is stuck. Fill the gap with hard metal such as a broken hack saw blade. Hammer in place if necessary.
 
Angle grinder and a 240v drill. Guaranteed results.:D

The mere name of Metrinch makes me dislike them. Use metric tools for one, and imperial tools for another. Use the same tool for both and one will not fit properly, which is when you start stripping things.

Any properly fitting spanner or socket will grip and turn the bolt or nut by the flats.
 
Always use a six point socket instead of the normal 12 point sockets available, these grip on the flats and allow a much greater torque to be applied to the bolt without damaging it as they drive off the flats. If a corroded nut or bolt is encountered, simply tap on a socket one size smaller, then remove it. Sometimes they take a little hammering to get the bolt or nut out of the socket.
 
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