Do any crimping pliers actually work?

[Nick_H]

Every pair I've had, whether scissor or ratchet type, leave the wire loose inside the connector, no matter how hard you squeeze the pliers, so I always end up finishing off with flat pliers.

Can anyone recommend a pair that work reliably, even on different wire thicknesses, or tell me what I'm doing wrong.

 

[beltsandbraces]

you will probably find the wire is secure but its the plastic sleeve that feels loose imo

 

[Ragnahex]

i have a kline set that works pretty well but others might have a different opinion

 

[halcyon]

Every pair I've had, whether scissor or ratchet type, leave the wire loose inside the connector, no matter how hard you squeeze the pliers, so I always end up finishing off with flat pliers.

Can anyone recommend a pair that work reliably, even on different wire thicknesses, or tell me what I'm doing wrong.

Yes, but not pre-insulated, use un-insulated terminals, crimp, check crimp and fit insulator.

Ebay do cheap ratchet crimps, fine for non commercial use, mine cost £200 in 1990, done around 150,000 crimps and still going.

Brian

 

[BartW]

we use this regularly in the company or on the boat, (we alway's use ratchet pliers)
never had a problem,
tools are not from a specific brand nor any special attention,

just need to make sure that correct diameter goos in correct collor
1mm2= red
1,5..2.5mm2 = blue
yellow only used for sizes above 2.5mm2 don't remember exact limits

and correct orientation in the crimp plier !
appol. if I tell you how to suck eggs ;-)

what do you mean by "plat pliers" ? we're probably talking about something different ?

 

[BruceK]

On the ratchet type (mine, a Rolson, at least) there is a cam you can dial in to make fine adjustments. Bit of a fiddle but once done I no longer have two rejected fittings for every good.

see http://scalexpic.espares.co.uk/bbad6c38-e173-46d1-acd9-7bbeef132fd2?maxwidth=700&maxheight=700

 

[Danfarry]

red 1.5mm
blue 2.5mm
yellow 6.0mm

these are good, I own a set of the RPI-CH http://www.swaonline.co.uk/files/ww...Tool for Pre-insulated Terminals - RPI-CH.pdf

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

For insulated crimps I use these, 100% success rate so far:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p11261

Single crimps (for heatshrink crimps) are a bit harder to find but I have these:

http://cool-seal.co.uk/crimp-tool-kits/112-102-7-Clear-Seal-Crimp-Kit-Heat-Shrink-Connectors

 

[Alan ashore]

The quality of the connectors makes a lot of difference in my experience.

 

[gjgm]

Every pair I've had, whether scissor or ratchet type, leave the wire loose inside the connector, no matter how hard you squeeze the pliers, so I always end up finishing off with flat pliers.

Can anyone recommend a pair that work reliably, even on different wire thicknesses, or tell me what I'm doing wrong.

Bought some Draper version off Amazon on reviews.. seems to be a world away from the useless scissor ones

 

[jrudge]

I bought a ratchet pair and have 100% failure rate!

Just squash it with pliers

 

[David2452]

Yes, but not pre-insulated, use un-insulated terminals, crimp, check crimp and fit insulator.

Ebay do cheap ratchet crimps, fine for non commercial use, mine cost £200 in 1990, done around 150,000 crimps and still going.

Brian

+ 1, The only test you can do on pre insulated terminals of any quality good or bad is a pull test, it is impossible to inspect for stray conductors, sharp enrty, damaged strands etc, open barrel terminals and seperate boots are far better and if you use the clear boot can also be inspected as they age.

jrudge, I see you are in London, if you want a demonstration and a bit of practise pop over and see me in South dock early one morning, just drop me a P.M.

https://www.cablecraft.co.uk/media/productdatasheets/2.%20Cablecraft-CTT%20Crimping%20Solutions/cc_crimp_guide.pdf

 

[omega2]

Do not forget your soldering iron!2 LOL

 

[Alpha22]

I stopped using the red/blue/yellow crimps a few years ago..... they were never great, even with quality terminals and a good set of ratchet pliers.
I now have re-tooled with non-insulated crimp pliers and crimps. The non-insulated crimp pliers squeeze the crimp into a "B" shape. Totally secure on the end of the wire. Then just slip over the insulated part. Finish up with a piece of glue lined heat shrink for a more robust finish if needed. I tested a few by trying to pull the crimp off and actually broke the wire before I could pull it out of the crimp!!!
The other advantage is, once you have the crimp pliers, the crimps themselves are WAY cheaper than the red/blue/yellow ones.

Do a quick search on ebay for "non insulated crimp"

 

[Nick_H]

Thanks for all the replies. It seems non-insulated connectors are the way to go, so i'll give those a try.

 

[isha]

....effective, simple and cheap method is a bolt and a vice. never failed me yet especially for larger wires.
dave

 

[Alpha22]

I replaced some battery cables on a boat a few weeks ago. They had been crimped using a vice and what looked like a cold chisel. When starting the engines the terminals got warm!! When dismantled, the large lug could be felt moving on the cable.
They were replaced with the correct copper lugs, firmly crimped with a hex die crimper. The owner says his engines start far easier now, and it passed the Boat Safety too!!

 

[GrahamHR]

I bought a hydraulic hex crimper to redo the battery +ve and ground cables on my boat.; poor original crimps and 70mm2 cables that were way too long for the application , in some cases 9' long when 2' was fine !). It did a lovely job, the cost of it and new terminals/ adhesive lined heat shrink tubing was far cheaper than buying new ready made cables.