DIY Engine Service on Volvo MD22L

aquaholic

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Was planning on having the engine serviced fairly soon then after a chat with someone I can see the obvious benfits of doing it myself, i.e apart from the cost, but also getting to know the engine in case of a breakdown.
So I wondered if there are any tips with this model of engine and is there anything else I need to do other than, oil & filter, fuel filter, water pump, gearbox oil?
If i change the fuel filter do i need to bleed injectors or anything of that type?
 

DownWest

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Apart from getting a manual, depends on the hours. Skipper Stu has written about these engines here before (and in PBO). Cambelt changes were one subject. (Perkins Prima based engine)
 

homer

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Pretty straightforward although on our boat (Moody38CC) access to the alternator drive belt is rather awkward. I find that if I hand operate the fuel feed pump to fill the new filter, there is no need to bleed the injectors.
 

Nostrodamus

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Just done mine (MD22-p)
Very strait forward but a manual does help.
Oil filter was absolute pain to get to.
Remember the filter on the fuel lift as well as the normal filter (and pre filter if fitted)
If changing cooling water remember to remove the air bleed bolt when re filling. (start the engine afterwards quickly) you will then have to top up the cooling water again.
Alternator belt was near to breaking but it could only be seen when taken off.
Raw water impella.. change to speed fit or what ever it is called if you can.

Do the service yourself. It is not difficult, you will probably do a better job and when things go wrong at sea you will know where to look.
 

Playtime

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I've got an MD22L and have been servicing it myself (once a year) for the last 12 years.

Firstly, as others have said, get hold of the Owners Manual (PM me if you need a copy). This is not a full workshop manual but does give the recommended service intervals and simple instructions for each item, as well as wiring diagrams and technical info about capacities, oil types etc.

One good tip is to enclose the oil filter in a strong plastic bag before removal. If you are careful you can catch all the oil before any escapes under the engine.

You can remove all the engine oil (apart from that in the filter) using the pipe at the front of the engine (the one with a rubber cover). You will need a suction pump of some kind; a Pela is well worth the £30 investment.

Change the primary and secondary fuel filters at the same time (every year) and then bleed as stated in the Manual. If you are lucky, bleeding just at the secondary (on the engine) should work but once (only once in 12 years) I had to loosen a couple of the injectors to remove air from the high pressure side.

The raw water impeller doesn't need changing every year - I reckon 300 hours is OK. Ditto the gearbox oil - maybe every 2 or 3 years, assuming it looks clear on the dipstick.

Apart from that, check the alternator belt tension, fresh water level and the anti syphon valve.

The saildrive gaiter is good for at least 10 years (see separate recent thread on this) and the cambelt is 600 hours (I think?)

Read the Manual and have a go - it's very straightforward.

Good luck.
 

Heckler

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Was planning on having the engine serviced fairly soon then after a chat with someone I can see the obvious benfits of doing it myself, i.e apart from the cost, but also getting to know the engine in case of a breakdown.
So I wondered if there are any tips with this model of engine and is there anything else I need to do other than, oil & filter, fuel filter, water pump, gearbox oil?
If i change the fuel filter do i need to bleed injectors or anything of that type?
Bit late on the scene!
The others have given you all the info, I suck the oil out of mine thru the front pipe, its got a rubber tit on it which you take off and attach a Pela to. The injection system is a constant return one so the fuel is pumped by the lift pump around the system back to the tank, I have fitted a push button filter on mine to make it easier to pump. Usually I use the button to pump the fuel into the filters and it will start easily, sometimes I open the bleed screw on the filter on the engine. I fitted a Speed Life Seal which extends the life of the raw water pump and makes it easier to check/change the impellor. The cam belt is pretty robust, I changed mine because I didnt know how many hours the engine had done, a pretty straightforward job on my Bene, lift the steps and all is there facing you. I have to disagree with the other poster about checking the tappets, its an overhead cam and special "tools" are needed to hold the cam in position whilst checking the gaps. The cover is the top half of the bearings. http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7746710-21-2863.aspx so if you are tempted be aware that all can jump out of place!
Stu
 

aquaholic

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Thanks for all your help, quite looking forward to it now .....
Just chatting today about the new speed seal pump which can run dry so will order one of those as well.
 

Jim@sea

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Apart from learning to how to bleed the injectors, I would also learn how to remove them. My last boat was becoming difficult to start, I took the Injectors out and took them to Automobile Engineers who had a "Lucas Hartridge" machine. For checking, they cleaned three and one had to be replaced. The engine was still difficult to start so I took the Glow Plugs out and one was completely burnt out. Following fitting the Glow Plugs the engine started perfectly.
Had I had to pay a mechanic to do this would have cost a bit. But the advantage was that it cost "Peanuts" to do and I also became more familiar with the engine.
Mind you having a good set of 1/4" sockets and long reach extensions helped.
 

Monique

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Thanks for all your help, quite looking forward to it now .....
Just chatting today about the new speed seal pump which can run dry so will order one of those as well.


2 comments. Speedseal is a no brainer. got 200 hours on my old impeller and when I changed it, it was kept as a spare. Little wear

Second comment. Do not buy an engine manual; I have a .pdf available.

PM me your email address :D

Edit: Check here too..... http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent...lication_search/Pages/publication_search.aspx
 
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Playtime

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I have to disagree with the other poster about checking the tappets, its an overhead cam and special "tools" are needed to hold the cam in position whilst checking the gaps. The cover is the top half of the bearings. http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7746710-21-2863.aspx so if you are tempted be aware that all can jump out of place!
Stu

Does anyone reading this thread regularly check the valve clearances on the MD22? I have to admit that I have not checked mine in 12 years/1200 hours, as it requires a bit more 'effort' than standard maintenance (as Stu says).
 

FlyingDutchman

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Does anyone reading this thread regularly check the valve clearances on the MD22? I have to admit that I have not checked mine in 12 years/1200 hours, as it requires a bit more 'effort' than standard maintenance (as Stu says).

I think the manual says to check the valve clearances every 2000 hours?
I have not checked them on my MD22A in 18 years/1100 hours...
 

Richard10002

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It's a marinised Montego 2 litre Diesel. IIRC many parts are interchangeable and can be bought much cheaper from a motor factors rather than VP. e.g. Oil and fuel filters, and belts.
 

VicS

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Playtime

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You are one step ahead of me.
Where can the workshop manuals be found on VP's website

I don't think they are on the VP site.

Don't ask where mine came from as I can't honestly remember (but I suspect it was from a tip-off on this site). In fact, I have 2 versions - one in 4 parts with a file date (on my PC) of 7/8/2009 and one single file (8MB) dated 28/11/2010.

Hang on - a quick Google has turned up this version!
 

Bobc

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Go onto fleabay and search for "Perkins Prima". You'll find Haynes manuals for about £5.

Buy one.
 
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