DIY electrical panel

Gixer said:
Blimey I wasn’t expecting so my responses. Thanks guys.
Buck - that was the response I was looking for.
BabaYaga - I’ve soldered the wires to each side of the though panel fuse holders and just used 15amp spade connectors for the rest

No Photo’s i‘m afraid, don’t want you all to see my inability to cut holes on the same parallel, and my solder joints, although strong look like someone’s sneezed on them.

I'm happy though ?
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Soldering is probably best avoided. Crimp connections done properly are your best bet.
 
chrisclin said:
Very impressive.
What happens when you press the 'battery combine' button?
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My starter battery and house batteries get connected in parallel for 30 secs..... for the case when the starter battery won't start the engine. I have a Victron Cyrix CT battery combiner and it has a function where both battery banks can be combined for 30 secs with a button press to give the starter battery a boost.
 
Just picked up on this 30 second timing for battery paralleling for starting. (when engine battery can't do the job) I wonder why you do not have a relay (high current) to parallel the batteries which is activated by the start switch ie in parallel with the starter solenoid (relay) but via another switch normally off which you operate to get that paralleling. Then you only get that jump start boost when the engine is actually cranking. Is that a bad idea. Is the 30 second timer a bette ridea and why? ol'will
 
William_H said:
Just picked up on this 30 second timing for battery paralleling for starting. (when engine battery can't do the job) I wonder why you do not have a relay (high current) to parallel the batteries which is activated by the start switch ie in parallel with the starter solenoid (relay) but via another switch normally off which you operate to get that paralleling. Then you only get that jump start boost when the engine is actually cranking. Is that a bad idea. Is the 30 second timer a bette ridea and why? ol'will
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The start button on my VP D1-30 is dual function, glowplugs and start. So you can choose to activate the combiner should a low voltage alarm on the starter battery get triggered by the glowplugs, before trying to crank - often the case if the start battery is flat.

The Victron combiner is there as a replacement for the split-charge diode and combines house and start when the engine is running to charge both banks - the combine button is just a feature of the combiner - it can carry 230A and I fitted a 200A circuit breaker in series with it in case a catastrophic short occurs or I want to override the combiner and isolate the banks.

The 30 sec timer just disconnects the banks from each other again automatically, which means you can't accidentally leave them connected and flatten both banks.
 
Just going to ask a quick question on my existing thread rather than start a new one.
My new panel is fitted and working fine. I’ve separated out my VHF and Radio onto separate switches but have a question.
I’ve bought a Glomex splitters for AIS, VHF and radio but this needs power. Can I run a positive feed from both switches to the splitter so that when either switch is on it has power?
I think if I join the lives at the splitter both the VHF and radio come on with the flick of one switch which I don’t want but I can’t get my head around it....
does this make sense??
 
Gixer said:
I think if I join the lives at the splitter both the VHF and radio come on with the flick of one switch which I don’t want
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A couple of diodes in the feeds to the splitter could probably solve this...
but don't the VHF and radio sets have on/off switches on them that you need to operate anyway?
 
Thanks BabaYaga,
I don’t know anything about diodes but will look into it.
thats a good point about them Having switches though, didn’t think of that ?
 
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