DIY boom brake. What do you think of this?

[Ric]

Figure of 8s and other devices don't work because it is too hard to control the friction - it is either all on or all off and nothing between. I spent a long time experimenting with them about ten years ago. The only boom-brake which works well is the Walder boom brake because the friction is spread over a large contact area with up to three wraps around the spiral-drum, so the friction can be controlled much more finely by the control line.

 

[Venus1]

Oscarpop, you can put 2 or 3 turns around the lower loop of the figure 8, for more friction.

The thread comments about the limitations are all valid (hence my "still not totally happy"), however you can make a crash gybe less violent.

 

[lw395]

Oscarpop, you can put 2 or 3 turns around the lower loop of the figure 8, for more friction.

The thread comments about the limitations are all valid (hence my "still not totally happy"), however you can make a crash gybe less violent.

But TBH, you shouldn't be crash-gybing a 40ft boat like it's a laser. Eventually you will break something.

 

[maby]

But TBH, you shouldn't be crash-gybing a 40ft boat like it's a laser. Eventually you will break something.

And it may not be part of the boat - we listened to a Mayday on Saturday from a yacht with a seriously injured crew member who had taken a blow to the head from the boom...

 

[Daydream believer]

But TBH, you shouldn't be crash-gybing a 40ft boat like it's a laser. Eventually you will break something.

But is that that is the point of the brake- to slow the process of the boom passing over the heads of the crew & to reduce shock load damage on the rig

 

[lw395]

But is that that is the point of the brake- to slow the process of the boom passing over the heads of the crew & to reduce shock load damage on the rig

Much better done by having a decent mainsheet system and using it properly IMHO.
If it's too windy for your sheet system it's probably time to reef the main.

 

[maby]

Much better done by having a decent mainsheet system and using it properly IMHO.
If it's too windy for your sheet system it's probably time to reef the main.

I would never have seen the boom brake as a mechanism to permit gybes under normal circumstances - it's there to mitigate the risk associated with an unintentional gybe - a more sophisticated alternative to the gybe preventer. If you are going to gybe intentionally, I would still expect to sheet in and do it in a controlled manner.

 

[maxi77]

Much better done by having a decent mainsheet system and using it properly IMHO.
If it's too windy for your sheet system it's probably time to reef the main.

Very much my own opinion. When long distance sailing shorthanded we used a continous gybe preventer to cope with the unintended gybe, proper mainsheet use dealt with normal gybing. As for the comment on Laser gybing, I can assure you gybing a Laser without controlling the mainsheet properly will result in the mainsheet catching on the transom which will capsize the boat in an instant. Not good practice.

 

[lw395]

....As for the comment on Laser gybing, I can assure you gybing a Laser without controlling the mainsheet properly will result in the mainsheet catching on the transom which will capsize the boat in an instant. Not good practice.

Good Swimming Practice!
Yes, I chose the wrong dinghy!

 

[maxi77]

Good Swimming Practice!
Yes, I chose the wrong dinghy!

In reality it is better with most dinghies to avoid an uncontrolled gybe, a few feet taken in on the main can make the difference between a good race and another cold swim. The race winner does not indulge in uncontrolled gybes even if they were not planned.

 

[Neeves]

If you need climbing rope the best source are artificial climbing walls. They need to retire rope after a specific period of time or after a specific fall (or that is the rule in Oz). They have no value to the climbing wall - unless someone has found another use for aged or over stressed cordage.

They are not very long 12-14m - but if you have a high wall they would obviously be longer.

As said they make excellent snubbers, and are about the right length as well

Jonathan

 

[arcot]

Boom brake rigged near the kicker might break the boom if you use it in strong winds and the boom catches a wave.
If you want it for light airs and sloppy seas, fair enough, but if you need a preventer, rig it to the clew end of the boom.

If you just want to control the boom as it crosses the boat in a gybe, you won't regret sorting your mainsheet and buying a ratchet block.

Wichard jibe preventer is rigged mid boom....similar to climbing 8 but 20 x times more expensive.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Wichard jibe preventer is rigged mid boom....similar to climbing 8 but 20 x times more expensive.

Old thread but just to add I fabricated from stainless steel a gybe control device like the Wichard device.

Line feedback to cockpit so tension thus control adjustments can be made while gybing

 

[Metalicmike]

I have rigged two preventers midship with lines through single blocks back to the cockpit cleats both have quick release connectors to the boom so they hang on the guard rails when not in use. I switch preventers when the boom is centred so the boom is always under control via the mainsheet track, mainsheet and restrictor line, just another two lines in the cockpit that's a total of 22 lines including mainsheet and Genoa tracks

 

[Fr J Hackett]

I have rigged two preventers midship with lines through single blocks back to the cockpit cleats both have quick release connectors to the boom so they hang on the guard rails when not in use. I switch preventers when the boom is centred so the boom is always under control via the mainsheet track, mainsheet and restrictor line, just another two lines in the cockpit that's a total of 22 lines including mainsheet and Genoa tracks

Preventers are very different to boom breaks and for reasons explained earlier should be attached at the aft end of the boom not midships middle of the boom if that’s where you have attached them.

 

[rotrax]

My simple Petzl figure of eight added enough friction to stop a crash gybe and by regulating tension allowed a smooth gybe. All for under 50 quid for the device and line.

 

[Cptsideways]

The type of rope used is important, you want something with elasticity that way it can be kept tight for the friction part through a figure 8 but not be so taught to allow movement.

 

[srm]

50 years of owning and sailing cruising yachts. Have never understood the need for boom brakes as use preventers rigged to the end of the boom, similar to described by @Metalicmike. When the boom is eased so end is above guard rail preventer is clipped on.
While running RYA practical courses there have been times inexperienced helms have accidentally gybed (42ft sloop); the boat lies over at a steep angle with main backed. Preventer is gently eased around its cleat to bring boom across under total control. The experience usually makes the helm more attentive as we continue.
When on a wild run one night singlehanded off the Norwegian coast with deep reefed main and gybing every hour or so I left both preventers rigged as they did not snag across the coach roof.