DIY antifouling advice?

A lot of people here appear to have not read the original post. My understanding is that the boat is in freshwater, in which case, the amount of fouling will be modest. The boatyard pressure washer should easily cope with it. Then all you have to do is let it dry (minutes in good conditions) and then roll on a coat of antifouling. A couple of hours max.
 
ChasB said:
Never heard of frog tape, but it looks good, and going cheap on Amazon! ;)
Click to expand...

Tis good gear, the wife suggested it and got me some, I poo pood the stuff, but had to admit it was a breeze to use and peeled off real nice, in one piece with no residue.
It was the green stuff, just in case they do other varities?
 
Our experience and it echos that above:
1) the yard will pressure wash it when it comes out initially;
2) you will want to give it a light sand to get back to a good base. We just use green or brown scouring pads for this; you can buy packs of a5-a4 from most hardware stores/ebay/amazon. You WILL need overalls (with a hood), gloves, mask and goggle. You WILL become the same colour as your antifouling :) ! Mind the wind direction when you do this, ideally you want a calm day as the dust will travel; not that I have ever covered a neighbours boat!!!!!
3) depending on the condition of what's there a single 2.5 ltr tin of antifouling should do you. Ask around as to what people use as different antifoulings work differently in different areas. On the south coast we found Micron Extra worked best; or whatever its now called.
4) use high quality masking tape, as said cheap tape is a completely false economy as the antifouling will leach under it. We always used Frog tape. Take the time to tape up the boot topping and everything else you don't want painted.
5) the cradle patches you can do when you get lifted back in. If you have a good relationship with the yard, ask them to hold you in the slings overnight and that gives a good time for the antifouling on the patches to dry.
6) we used rollers and paint brush. Best were the foam rollers, but you need a fair few of them as they don't last long. again you will want overalls, gloves, and goggles. You will paint yourself!
7) first time out on a 10 mtre boat, give yourself 2 days. Once you have done it a few times, that is an easy day job, assuming no issues/fairing or filling required.

good luck; one of the more satisfying jobs as an owner!
 
Tiderace said:
Our experience and it echos that above:
1) the yard will pressure wash it when it comes out initially;
2) you will want to give it a light sand to get back to a good base. We just use green or brown scouring pads for this; you can buy packs of a5-a4 from most hardware stores/ebay/amazon. You WILL need overalls (with a hood), gloves, mask and goggle. You WILL become the same colour as your antifouling :) ! Mind the wind direction when you do this, ideally you want a calm day as the dust will travel; not that I have ever covered a neighbours boat!!!!!
3) depending on the condition of what's there a single 2.5 ltr tin of antifouling should do you. Ask around as to what people use as different antifoulings work differently in different areas. On the south coast we found Micron Extra worked best; or whatever its now called.
4) use high quality masking tape, as said cheap tape is a completely false economy as the antifouling will leach under it. We always used Frog tape. Take the time to tape up the boot topping and everything else you don't want painted.
5) the cradle patches you can do when you get lifted back in. If you have a good relationship with the yard, ask them to hold you in the slings overnight and that gives a good time for the antifouling on the patches to dry.
6) we used rollers and paint brush. Best were the foam rollers, but you need a fair few of them as they don't last long. again you will want overalls, gloves, and goggles. You will paint yourself!
7) first time out on a 10 mtre boat, give yourself 2 days. Once you have done it a few times, that is an easy day job, assuming no issues/fairing or filling required.

good luck; one of the more satisfying jobs as an owner!
Click to expand...

Sorry, but only an uncaring fool would dry sand antifouling.
 
Tiderace said:
Our experience and it echos that above:
1) the yard will pressure wash it when it comes out initially;
2) you will want to give it a light sand to get back to a good base. We just use green or brown scouring pads for this; you can buy packs of a5-a4 from most hardware stores/ebay/amazon. You WILL need overalls (with a hood), gloves, mask and goggle. You WILL become the same colour as your antifouling :) ! Mind the wind direction when you do this, ideally you want a calm day as the dust will travel; not that I have ever covered a neighbours boat!!!!!
3) depending on the condition of what's there a single 2.5 ltr tin of antifouling should do you. Ask around as to what people use as different antifoulings work differently in different areas. On the south coast we found Micron Extra worked best; or whatever its now called.
4) use high quality masking tape, as said cheap tape is a completely false economy as the antifouling will leach under it. We always used Frog tape. Take the time to tape up the boot topping and everything else you don't want painted.
5) the cradle patches you can do when you get lifted back in. If you have a good relationship with the yard, ask them to hold you in the slings overnight and that gives a good time for the antifouling on the patches to dry.
6) we used rollers and paint brush. Best were the foam rollers, but you need a fair few of them as they don't last long. again you will want overalls, gloves, and goggles. You will paint yourself!
7) first time out on a 10 mtre boat, give yourself 2 days. Once you have done it a few times, that is an easy day job, assuming no issues/fairing or filling required.

good luck; one of the more satisfying jobs as an owner!
Click to expand...
The dust will not be a problem, as you will be wet sanding, as is the accepted and expected practice,
A. Because of the health risks both to yourself and to others,
B. The risk of dust staining neighbouring boats and,
C. The dust just flying away and polluting the environment generally.
 
Spirit (of Glenans) said:
The dust will not be a problem, as you will be wet sanding, as is the accepted and expected practice,
A. Because of the health risks both to yourself and to others,
B. The risk of dust staining neighbouring boats and,
C. The dust just flying away and polluting the environment generally.
Click to expand...
iT s called mitigating risk
A. full protection gear and a vacuum cleaner on a good sander,
B. with plastic sheeting covering a boat if it is near by or ask the yard to move boat away .
C. This one makes me chuckle, were do you think the anti foul goes when your in the sea , it just does not vaporize
i dry sanded my boat . I am a considerate person
 
All good advice above. When applying AF, I find it best to lay on a large piece of carpet beneath the boat, much more comfortable and less mucky. Also don't leave your boat ashore for too long after applying the AF, it should tell you on the tin how long before relaunch. Relax tho, its weeks not hours! Best of luck
 
Tiderace said:
Thank you for the constructive comment.

Perhaps you would now care to put some articulation behind your comment as to a) why I'm a fool and b) why I'm uncaring?
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I could, but it might be more constructive for yourself to do your own research.
FYI I wet sand my antifouling using gauze abrasive on an articulated pole, using a water hose.
Dry sanding, unless you are fully equipped with vacuum dust collection, leads to toxic dust for other people to suffer.
 
FlyingGoose said:
iT s called mitigating risk
A. full protection gear and a vacuum cleaner on a good sander,
B. with plastic sheeting covering a boat if it is near by or ask the yard to move boat away .
C. This one makes me chuckle, were do you think the anti foul goes when your in the sea , it just does not vaporize
i dry sanded my boat . I am a considerate person
Click to expand...
A. Would need to be VV good.
B. Time and expense. Time, if you cover the neighbouring boats yourself, and around here they get packed pretty tightly together. Will the yard charge for moving boats out of the way? Will they fit it into their busy schedule at a time to suit your schedule?
C. In the sea you are not breathing it in or getting it on your skin and for marine life the concentrations are very low.
Where I learned my sailing/boat maintenance, dry sanding was considered an absolute no-no, and anything I have read in sailing publications or generally on these forums has been in agreement. I have never seen anyone dry sanding AF.
 
G
ChasB said:
So...

To wet sand I buy:
a pole sander like this Tyzack 720H-05 Spear & Jackson Telescopic Pole Sander: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
5m of 120 grit sandijng mesh (/?) ProDec Advance PASMV120 120 Grit Sanding Mesh, Brown, 5 m: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools (that'll be enough?)
and attach a hose, perhaps with cable ties, with the head set to fine mist?
Click to expand...
Yes, that equipment will be fine. You will find that the mesh abrasive lasts amazingly. I don't attach a hose to the pole. You don't need water all the time. It's sufficient to keep the hull and the abrasive pad wet, and to wash off every couple of minutes. I use a hose with a "gun". Have fun.
 
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