Diving with a hookah

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20 Jun 2007
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Live in Kent, boat in Canary Islands
www.bavariayacht.info
I've been looking at commercially made pumped diving systems. One in particular is the DeckSnorkel: http://eu.powerdive.com/products/hookah/decksnorkel
The specifications for the pump are:

Maximum depth: 1 diver to 7M (23.1FT)
Operating amps: 12 amp
Operating voltage: 12 V
Compressor: 2 cfm [56 litres per minute]
Operating pressure: 18 psi

Compare this with this oilless pump on eBay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321171432381
I've asked the seller what the flow rate is, his answer: 160L per min at 30 PSI

It would seem that this pump is more than adequate for the task, needing only a hose, a stage-two regulator and a pressure vessel (possibly with a pressure switch to keep stop the pump when full).

UPDATE: Still continuing with this idea, but now with a Thomas 907CDC18 Pump or similar.
 
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For the price of a DeckSnorkel you could get proper dive training and proper equipment, use a 3, 5 or 7 liter cylinder depending on what you can get cheap for boat work and a 10, 12 or 15 liter for normal diving and you'll have a decent setup for both boat work and diving

I wouldn't want to risk my health breathing from the output of that oil less mini pump without some serious filtering of its output - so http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diving-Pe...a_SnorkellingEquipment_SM&hash=item2eafa13c28 adds £125 to its cost to make it output breathing quality air

Interesting that DeckSnorkel does not appear to have any filtering so probably wouldn't put out breathing quality air either - http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/dvis9.pdf

Last time I was involved pricing filters for a scuba compressor we had £300 worth of filters to replace annually
 
I have the PowerSnorkel version from the same supplier that I picked for free from a passing sailor as it was not working.

I found the motor seized and one of the reed valves corroded. It is mostly made from IMHO a lower quality aluminium so would not last too long in a real marine environment floating in the rubber tyre as shown. I have not used it in anger and an considering selling or making it more like the deck snorkel and fitting in a more protected area.

I did try using a oilless compressor I had some years ago for spray painting like this http://www.keeneeng.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=T80&Category_Code=ACS and it did work OK with the stage 2 regs from my power snorkal but gave it away as it was mains driven.

You will need a special regulator to normal scuba with a different balance spring due to the lower regulator inlet pressure but a scuba regulator can be converted but you need to find some one who knows how to do it.

The 12V compressor could be used but it its like the one I use on my 4X4 the air comes out quite hot and would need to be cooled and filtered very well before breathing.

I do have a scuba set on board but dont use it much from the boat due to its weight 12lit steel cylinder.

I am looking at using the long hookah hose with my scuba reg so I can leave he scuba cylinder on deck for diving around the boat to save having the heavy cylinder on my back.

I do have a high pressure compressor on board so refilling will be less of a problem but I shore side filling is available close to where I an I would prefer to have a fill there to ensure better quality air than my little compressor.
 
Yep, that would be about right.............and worth every penny...although the first few fills can tend to be a bit dry !

Did my Trimix Compressor Operator a couple of years ago - useful skills and really goes into the air quality side and oxygen issues in great detail

Luckily I've never had a bad fill but have been on a boat where almost everyone else had to can their dives due to dodgy fills, all from the same place but who did move fast when telephoned to say they had supplied bad fills
 
It would seem that this pump is more than adequate for the task, needing only a hose, a stage-two regulator and a pressure vessel

I believe the smaller systems generally use the volume of the hose as a pressure accumulator. Maybe worth experimenting with this (provided you have enough hose) before adding a tank if required?

Pete
 
I believe the smaller systems generally use the volume of the hose as a pressure accumulator...

Now that is a good idea, thank you.

BTW, I'm a PADI "Advanced Diver", and I already have a 10 litre tank on-board, plus BCD and twin DVs. The tank is due for a re-test, so I'm looking at alternatives. It is so much hassle getting geared up.
 
I'm looking at alternatives. It is so much hassle getting geared up.

But surely much safer? I proposed diving on my mooring with a snorkel and my friends (both BSAC instructors) refused to cme along as buddy, so it's a no-go. They wouldn't dive for me either, as the river flow and lack of visibility make it quite a hazardous task.

Rob.
 
But surely much safer? I proposed diving on my mooring with a snorkel and my friends (both BSAC instructors) refused to come along as buddy, so it's a no-go. They wouldn't dive for me either, as the river flow and lack of visibility make it quite a hazardous task.

Rob.

They probably won't snorkel with you as few divers snorkel, I'm a BSAC assistant diving instructor and snorkel instructor so I don't have a problem with it but many do.

They probably won't dive for you as that may put them "at work" so HSE regs have to be complied with which is expensive

I agree its much safer, given the appropriate training, equipment, and experience, to dive a mooring than to snorkel it, and way easier - I intend to dig out my single cylinder kit to dive my mooring this summer but then again I sail on a lake so tides aren't an issue
 
But surely much safer? I proposed diving on my mooring with a snorkel and my friends (both BSAC instructors) refused to cme along as buddy, so it's a no-go. They wouldn't dive for me either, as the river flow and lack of visibility make it quite a hazardous task.

Presumably though your mooring is deeper than the average prop, anode, or whatever else people want to fiddle with on their boats. I would be a little concerned about contaminants in the air supply, but other than that I think I would be entirely happy with the risks of a DIY system at these kinds of very shallow depths (about a metre). If the air stops, stick your head out. Indeed, as a kid I once made a diving helmet out of an old square bucket with a piece of perspex fixed over a hole with silicone and a dinghy bellows pump. In the swimming pool with my mate pumping, I could go down a foot or two with my head dry. When it all went wrong (mate not pumping fast enough, lean forward letting the air escape at the back, etc) I would pop up to the surface, spluttering. Nigel's system has to be better than that :)

Pete
 
I've been looking at commercially made pumped diving systems.

I'd a pal who used one of these things and was ill for the rest of the day. There are several cases where divers suffered from air which was not oil-free, most died, but not from using these things. It is very difficult to get the air free of oil and some of these pumped systems use plastic tubing which itself can be very unpleasant.

The point is,if you are using it for doing work eg on the hull, you will draw a lot of air in which if contaminated in any way will hurt you.
 
It says it is "oilless", which is the same. I used to smoke, so I'm used to getting **** in my lungs :)

I hope that's an attempt at making me laugh? I don't dive and have no gear, but hey, breathing contaminated air in a poor visibility, fast current environment under a boat? Safe as houses mate!
 
I am always amazed at the British attitude to hookah diving gear. I use a system similar to the Powerdive system except I assembled the gear myself. Hookahs are very common in this country and are used commercially and for recreational use. Used for gold prospecting too. 50% of the local yachts in my homeport have their own hookah units, one uses scuba gear but regrets selling his hookah gear.
The basis of my equipment is the diaphram pump, Thomas 907CDC18. This is a 12v pump that draws 12 amps. This pump is the same unit used by hospitals and laboratories in ventilating equipment. Mine actually came from a lab in California. The same pump is used by other manufacturers of hookah gear, I copied the number off my mates gear. These are only low pressure pumps so you have to match it with a low pressure regulator made for hookah gear. The only other part needed is hose. I use 30 metres of hookah grade hose. 30 metres of hose means you don't need a tank, the length gives enough storage and cools the air before it reaches you. Because the pump is electric there are no fumes to get sucked in. I have a small length of hose with a piece of pantihose stretched over the end to stop insects getting sucked in.
 
Few years ago I was chatting to an old bloke who used to be a scallop fisher in the early 1950's. Their hookah gear in the early days were compressors made from motorbike engines. The engine was pulled apart and cleaned and when rebuilt was lubricated with peanut oil in the sump. Plenty of blowby and the divers were breathing peanut oil mist all day! Now he can't stand peanuts!
 
But surely much safer? I proposed diving on my mooring with a snorkel and my friends (both BSAC instructors) refused to cme along as buddy, so it's a no-go. They wouldn't dive for me either, as the river flow and lack of visibility make it quite a hazardous task.

Rob.

Snorkelling on your mooring should be quite safe if not very effective due to limited down time. I snorkel down to mine often in summer. It is in 3 metres of water. I never have a buddy. I need a stout pair of gloves so that I can effeectively climb down the chain despite barnacles etc. This climbing down is far easier/quicker than swimming down. You have a look see then float up. If you wear a wetsuit you will need a weight belt but have plenty of buoyancy anyway. I just have mak snorkel and gloves.
What might be dangeerous for you is a fast running tide. Swim fins and a long floating rope might make it easier to avert being washed away. or just do it a slack tide.
Don't try to push your endurance too far. When you run out of breath it is time to come up. All of the above for hull cleaninmg as well.good luck olewill
 
I use a simple 12V pump and an "airbag" strapped to my back to ensure ambient pressure at depth. Used it for years with no problems. I fail to see why there needs to be a filter system; the air it pumps down to me is exactly the same stuff that I breath anyway.
 
Apart from the pump the only critical part is the quality of the hose. In Australia where hookahs are common there is a hose marketed as hookah hose. The hose has to be food grade lined and not allow any sunlight to pass into it. Non return valve just before the regulator. Use a regulator with the correct pressure to suit the pump. Harness and clip so you can tow the hose is very handy as well. Dozens of Youtube videos on the subject. Don't skimp on the hose though, it will be one of the more expensive parts of the kit.
 
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