direct cooling perkins 4107

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viramati

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Have noticed on my new (1964) Freeman 26 that the engine (Perkins 4107) is directly cooled at the temp gauge never really gets above 90f. In the manual it says that direct cooling is not good for engine wear, oil, noise etc but is ok if used for less then 100 hours a year. As I am thinking of fitting a calorifier I am sure that this wont work with the existing cooling system. I would appreciate any input as to whether I should think about converting to indirect and the cost (after all it has had this engine since 1964 and it seems to run fine)
Thanks
 
The cost of converting to fresh water cooling, will be quite high. Where is your boat used? You can get some prices, of bowman heat exchangers from places that marinise engines, but first I would like to know where the boat is used.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Have noticed on my new (1964) Freeman 26 that the engine (Perkins 4107) is directly cooled at the temp gauge never really gets above 90f. In the manual it says that direct cooling is not good for engine wear, oil, noise etc but is ok if used for less then 100 hours a year. As I am thinking of fitting a calorifier I am sure that this wont work with the existing cooling system. I would appreciate any input as to whether I should think about converting to indirect and the cost (after all it has had this engine since 1964 and it seems to run fine)
Thanks

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I find that strange ... I have a 4-107 direct cooled ... had a 4-99 that was indirect via heat echanger ... BOTH engines set-up for same work ...

Just checking my Workshop manual .... it says for direct raw water cooled :

With earlier engines, the coolant was controlled by a hand operated valve on top of the water outlet connection, in order that the water temp. could be maintained at maximum 140F (60C)............. temperature should not be exceeded otherwise salt deposits are liable to form in the water jackets ........

With later engines the coolant temp. is controlled by a thermostat ....... etc. etc.

I can find no reference in the Workshop Manual about hours use ...

As to you want to install a Calorifier .... if you have the thermostat controlled coolant as most are - you will get reasonable temp through the coils ... BUT do not be tempted to up the thermostat temp - as then you are in danger of those deposits in the water jackets. You will never get HOT water with direct cooling water use.

The conversion of your engine should be quite easy actually if you can get hold of a "scrap" 4-107 that is complete with its heat exchanger system ... it's near enough bolt on.

I certainly have a 4-107 raw water cooled job in my boat and I will certainly use mine far more than a 100 hrs !! Once I get the recon fuel pump on of course !!
 
Then it's already fresh/brakish water cooled! Forget the heat exchanger. You could plumb in a calorifier without problem. As for it not lasting? Absolute rubbish! Just flush it out with tap water occasionally, it will be fine. No salt build up, coz there aint any! Make sure your water strainer is in good nick and keep it that way. You should be able to get the temp higher, maybe the thermostat if fitted is stuffed or it hasnt got one, have a look, or get somebody who knows to have a look for you, good luck..

Oh! and by the way, welcome to the forums!
 
Used Twin Perkins 4108 Engin's for years on my RLM 27 when I had her, no problems,they will last you out!
look after them they will look after you, don't mess with them !

Mike
 
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the boat is used on the thames

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I guessed it was a river setting as thats normal for the Freemans ...

As to being absolutely fresh-water - it is not seawater - but there are still sediments and other "salts" in the water. But you are at advantage to boats such as mine and many others that live in seawater.
Another post says raise temp. - I would be inclined not to because of particulate in the water .... but a few degrees would likely not hurt.

Tip ... you may wonder what to do with winter etc. and having no closed cooling system - how to frost protect ... My method is to mix up a strong anti-freeze solution. Open up strainer intake and close of hull seacock valve. While running engine you pour in the anti-freeze mix into the open strainer and have engine pump it through the system .... you could even collect the exiting water mix and flush it through again. Leave all valves open once engine stopped ...

If this is done after a "tap-water" flush - it will be a very good way to clean the system as well - as Anti-freeze has cleaning agents in.

Well it' what I do with mine anyway !!
 
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