Difficulty replacing engine anode on Bukh 10

Twister_Ken

Twister_Ken

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The engine anode on my Bukh is fitted to a 22mm bolt mounted on the back of the engine, so access to it is difficult. So far I've tried an adjustable on the bolt (slips), open ended spanner (slips), a socket (obstructed by the throttle quadrant which is too close for the socket drive to mount) and a ratchet ring spanner (not enough clearance for it to fit all the way round). All that's left to try is a plain ring spanner.

Anyone change these successfully - if so what tool do you use?
 
Would one of thse do the trick

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Had same problem with mackled oil filler on DV20 and went thro' similar spanner sequence. Solved by filing two flats and using mole wrench. Bought replacement bolt from "the good Bukh folk" - next day delivery.
 
T/K,

I used to be able to get a 22mm socket on the nut with a bit of jiggling about. My standard 'out-a socket-set' ones didn't work, but one day I had to borrow a socket from a pal in the boatyard to do another job, and because it looked 'smaller' than the ones in my sets, casually tried it on the anode nut.

It worked beautifully, and we swopped 22mm sockets there and then! You've probably done all this, but it's worth trying different sockets from different sources because they aren't all the same, and it only needs to be a tiny bit different for it work. A short extension bar and out it comes.

Works beautifully on my current B24 too.
 
I use a whitworth socket that fits a 22mm bolt with a short extension bar. I think it's all about the O/D of the socket head. Having said that it's one of those jobs where I always breathe a sigh of relief when it's done. I've also had the situation where the bolt comes out but the stub of the anode doesn't. Now that's a real knuckle basher. I finally learned that you can screw the bolt head onto the anode stud and lever it off. Last time I put a new anode in, I shaved it slightly in the hope that it would come out more easily. I haven't tested this theory yet.
Good luck
Morgan
 
I've given up on mine on a BUKH 20. Even with the quadrant removed I cannot shift it with any of numerous sockets/spanners/grip wrenchers....... time for drastic surgery when I get around to it.

I know they keep the replacements in stock at my local agent so must be a frequent requirement......can also guess at the cost given that a standard 20mm metric-fine nut for the gearbox output flange is £20 from BUKH /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Vic
 
Yeah, the price is eye-watering for the bolt and anode, although it is possible to buy the anode separately and save a tenner or so. I get my Bukh spares from T E Norris in Isleworth, and I think their main customers are inland waterways uses, so the prices are maybe a little less than from marine suppliers.
 
Have you tried a hex socket - not the usual "bi-hex" sockets? - I had to use one to remove the anode carrier from my DV24. Hole was retapped BSP and a couple of new carriers turned up out of brass - they do not sieze in the hole anymore. - The heads were machines square not hex so easy to grip with a shifter or open ended spanner.
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Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity
 
You can have a brass/bronze holder made with the hexagonal bit longer(1"or2") and drilled and tapped on the inside so you can insert new pencil anodes on it when they become wasted.These are dirt cheap.The longer nut will be much much easier to grip with a spanner from the front of the engine even if it's hidden from sigh. If you use one of those ratchet ring spanners the whole thing will be dead easy.
 
30boat - In this case that won't work. The bolt is quite close (one inch maybe) to the throttle quadrant which is immediately behind it.

Cliff - I can get a socket on it, problem is there's no room to get a drive on the socket. Maybe if I just get some quarter inch bar and put a 90 degree in it, it will have room to work the socket.
 
Not my favorite job as it means crawling around the back of the engine. A smallish adjustable spanner and hammer seem to do the job. Usually the anode stays in place which then needs levering out with the addition of a nut on the thread. I'm always surpised by how little the anode has erroded though.
 
Then maybe you could have a slightly thicker bolt with two or three 8mm holes drilled accross it where you could insert a tommy bar .I'm running out if ideas...
 
Would removing the rocker cover first help at all?

Of course it's much easier with the cylinder head removed, and you can then fish out the remains of the anode that unscrewed itself (and fell off inside) as you unscrewed the nut. But maybe you won't want to go that far ....
 
IIRC I used a 3/8 drive hex socket the first time with an extention bar over the quadrant. Retapping is straightforward but you need to remove the quadrant to get the tap in straight.
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Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity
 
Ken I found that the bestest thing was a suitable socket and most important a "wobble" extension drive (About 12" long) and then the usual ratchet handle..
It surely is a sod to get at but that's always worked on my Bukh 24 ... mind you I can get in behind the beast by removing the dinghy "bathtub"..
If you're around you can certainly borrow one from me. (Send me a PM to fix the date luvvey!)
In fact think I mislaid mine once and so have a spare !!!
Cheers Bob E...
 
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