Deks Olje

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catalac08

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I like this saturating wood oil but you can use a lot of the stuff even just on the woody bits on a GRP boat. I am not wishing to start a long thread involving the merits of alternative ways of treating wood but what I would like to find is something very similar that follows the same saturation process but is much cheaper. Any ideas.
 
catalac08 said:
I like this saturating wood oil but you can use a lot of the stuff even just on the woody bits on a GRP boat. I am not wishing to start a long thread involving the merits of alternative ways of treating wood but what I would like to find is something very similar that follows the same saturation process but is much cheaper. Any ideas.
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In my experience it is a waste of money however little you pay for it (or similar so called saturation products). They never get into the wood to any depth and evaporate, which is why you have to keep on applying them. Bit like drug addiction!

For long lasting protection of wood whilst keeping the appearance of wood suggest you use a porous woodstain. Sikkens Novatec/top is probably the best, or International Woodskin which is a similar single pot finish. Simple and quick to apply, long lasting and easy to touch up if damaged.

Sorry, know you did not want alternatives - but anything cheaper of a similar type is likely to be even less effective!
 
Tranona said:
In my experience it is a waste of money however little you pay for it (or similar so called saturation products). They never get into the wood to any depth and evaporate, which is why you have to keep on applying them. Bit like drug addiction!

For long lasting protection of wood whilst keeping the appearance of wood suggest you use a porous woodstain. Sikkens Novatec/top is probably the best, or International Woodskin which is a similar single pot finish. Simple and quick to apply, long lasting and easy to touch up if damaged.
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i used D.O. when it was first imported & soon came to that same conclusion.
it is ok in the kitchen units at home & has lasted very well indeed
 
Yes, I'm of the same opinion. I applied it to the teak in the cockpit and it was fine for a season, but it started to thin and three years on it had disappeared completely! Waste of money really and difficult to apply without walking on it.
I've given up on teak treatments apart from an annual wash in oxalic acid to restore the colour.
 
Linseed oil outside on a boat looks great for a few weeks then it goes mouldy and black, it makes no difference as to whether it is boiled or raw oil. Don't use it unless you like the black mouldy effect.
D.O waste of effort you may as well use turps!
 
MASH said:
Linseed oil? I bet that's all DO is anyway.
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I tried Deks Olje many years ago.. Not much like linseed oil IMO.... Not much good either

Followed that with International Swedish Wood Oil. Marginally better that D.O.

Now using Sikkens Cetol Marine.... The best so far by a significant margin.
NLA of course.. replaced by International Woodskin. I'd try that next but I expect my tin of Cetol will see me out
 
Tranona said:
But useless for outside because the D2 film is hard and cracks. Once that happens you have to take it all off. Inevitably some bits do adhere and they are the devil to move.
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If you read the tin, you don't have to struggle to take it off because you don't use it on exterior work in the first place. ;)
 
VicS said:
I tried Deks Olje many years ago.. Not much like linseed oil IMO.... Not much good either

Followed that with International Swedish Wood Oil. Marginally better that D.O.

Now using Sikkens Cetol Marine.... The best so far by a significant margin.
NLA of course.. replaced by International Woodskin. I'd try that next but I expect my tin of Cetol will see me out
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Dactyl my experience, probably still have a half used tin of DO hanging around somewhere from 20 years ago. Useless stuff.
 
VicS said:
Now using Sikkens Cetol Marine.... The best so far by a significant margin.
NLA of course.. replaced by International Woodskin. I'd try that next but I expect my tin of Cetol will see me out
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+1 Great stuff. Easy and looks plenty good enough for me. Some chandlers still have it, got a tin at pirates cave recently.
 
Simondjuk said:
If you read the tin, you don't have to struggle to take it off because you don't use it on exterior work in the first place. ;)
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Then why does it say on the can (both D1 an2) that is for marine use, internally and externally above the waterline - and suitable for all woods, including teak? I have just read the cans still in my garage.

Based on that information it is not unreasonable that I should have used it on my mast and all the brightwork on the hull and coachroof - but only once, and never again!
 
Must be in the minority. We started treating louvre doors & tiller on our Southerly with varnish but gave up after a couple of years. After that we only ever used DO1 (not 2) and it was always fine. In fact, after the first 10-15 years very little soaked into the wood and a gloss formed on the surface (much shinier than D2 would have been).

Varnish just came off after a couple of months but DO was fine. Eventually became so saturated that we just gave the wood a very light sand before trying to put on several coats. Not much absorbed so usage wasn't high. Very little maint. needed in last 8 years before we sold the boat. All marks on the wood were from pre-DO days. Nothing deteriorated at all after we started using DO. But then we did persevere with it for over 20 years.

Click on the tiller & door thumbnails to see how the woodwork looked after 29 years in service.
http://www.mistroma.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/MistromaOriginal/Gallery2009_2.html
 
Mistroma said:
After that we only ever used DO1 (not 2) and it was always fine. In fact, after the first 10-15 years very little soaked into the wood and a gloss formed on the surface (much shinier than D2 would have been).

Eventually became so saturated that we just gave the wood a very light sand before trying to put on several coats. Not much absorbed so usage wasn't high. Very little maint. needed in last 8 years before we sold the boat. All marks on the wood were from pre-DO days. Nothing deteriorated at all after we started using DO. But then we did persevere with it for over 20 years.

Click on the tiller & door thumbnails to see how the woodwork looked after 29 years in service.
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That's very impressive. A few questions. How often did you do top up maintenance? You say very little maintenance in the last 8 years, is that implying you had to do a lot more prior to this? You also say you had 'persevered' with it, is this implying it was a bit of a grind? How did it look in the 10-15 years before the gloss formed?
 
I suppoes that persevere isn't the correct word. I just meant that we used it every year for quite a long time. I wouldn't have done that if it had been expensive or a lot of effort.

Not really a grind, we just sanded back a bit more in the way you would with varnish. After a few years we stopped doing that and just gave it a light brush with fine sandpaper. My wife did always give it several coats but each one only took a few minutes and used very little DO.

We never did any maint. during the season. It did deteriorate a little initially during each season (i.e. surface dried out slightly for first 10 years?) but nothing major. It just looked as if it could do with some attention. However, it eventually looked pretty much the same at end of season as at the beginning.

I must mention that we did put a cover on the tiller when not in use and it was taken home each winter. The doors were exposed to weather during summer but replaced with ply "winter doors" out of sailing season. Even so, the were very low maint. for the shine they had. I was always told that DO2 was more like a varnish and DO1 soaked. But I guess that when enough coats go on then the extra just dries on top to a shiny finish.

Before the gloss formed it was still shiny but would dry & dull a bit during the season. Once the coat formed on top it pretty much looked the same all year (i.e. Like new varnish).
 
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Thanks for comments.
Interesting about D2 cracking. I have never used the D2 on top of the D1 just re-coated with D1 each year and the result is a pretty good sheen which dulls off as the year progresses. This is on a substantial wooden rail (4"x3") around my cockpit which being on a cat is about 2x5ft sections plus about 12ft across the back. Looked at Cetol as an alternative on fleebay but the exterior/UV resistant types is not really much cheaper than DO. My concern about going the Cetol way is whether putting onto previously treated wood would result in a patchy coloured finish-may be safer to stay with DO!
 
catalac08 said:
Thanks for comments.
Interesting about D2 cracking. I have never used the D2 on top of the D1 just re-coated with D1 each year and the result is a pretty good sheen which dulls off as the year progresses. This is on a substantial wooden rail (4"x3") around my cockpit which being on a cat is about 2x5ft sections plus about 12ft across the back. Looked at Cetol as an alternative on fleebay but the exterior/UV resistant types is not really much cheaper than DO. My concern about going the Cetol way is whether putting onto previously treated wood would result in a patchy coloured finish-may be safer to stay with DO!
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Strip it back to bare wood. Expect (based on my experience) the D1 is only on the surface. If there is any discolouration, oxalic acid will help even it out. The point with a finish like Sikkens or Woodskin is that it is porous so does not crack, but degrades slowly - several years life. So it is cheaper in the long run than most other finishes. Classic Boat has carried out long term tests on a whole range of finishes and Sikkens outperforms just about everything for durability and low cost. The only negative is that some people don't like the sightly muddy sheen. Cetol and its replacement has a better finish and many of the good features of the 2 pot.
 
. Can't relate to some of the above?....Big fan of Deks Olje....durable , easy to use. Good stuff, though not cheap, lasts forever.........
 
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