Deks Olje D2 first coat still wet.

Yellow Ballad

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I've just started "glossing" my winter woodwork and applied the first coat of D2 last night. I've planned on another coat tonight but it still feels wet or tacky is this usual? The D1 goes on wet on wet but it doesn't say that in the D2 instructions, but it does say allow 3 days to set up and dry so I'm assuming it's ok to recoat whilst tacky.

Just thought I would ask before wrecking it and having to start again.

Oh it's in a heated room as well so well within working temperatures.
 
I gave up on Deks Olje; it sounds like a great idea but the reality never lived up to the dream.

I found that out 35 yrs ago
wood skin is so much better & very easy to repair any rubbed / marked areas
 
I gave up on Deks Olje; it sounds like a great idea but the reality never lived up to the dream.

I was disappointed with it. In spite of the claims it doesn't penetrate into hardwood and soon rubs off.

I am now using Epifanes Rapidcoat which I'm very pleased with.
 
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Oh great..... it was mentioned to me and I read all the raving reviews on here I thought I would try it. It's on now and the above doesn't really help me.

Should D2 be dry to touch before recoating or not?

Its ok on the teak trim in my kitchen, lasted well out of the sun & elements
 
Its ok on the teak trim in my kitchen, lasted well out of the sun & elements

If it goes on right, people swear by it. The rest of us swear at it, and nobody seems to know why it works fro some and not others. I worked hard to ensure that I followed the instructions precisely. Preparation, temperature, coating times, all scrupulously followed. It looked like a million dollars - for about six months, then it started to lift, and the second season it looked so dreadful I scraped it all off again, and slapped ona coulle of coats of Sadolin Clear Gloss door paint. That was five years ago. It was only last winter I needed to clean off and recoat. Not bad for a temporary stop gap slapped on quickly in indifferent conditions!

There is no obvious reason fro the patchy results. When it works it is brilliant, but there seems to be a less than 50% success rate judging from these pages.
 
Oh great..... it was mentioned to me and I read all the raving reviews on here I thought I would try it. It's on now and the above doesn't really help me.

Should D2 be dry to touch before recoating or not?

The technical data sheet does not say it should be dry only that a minimum of 12 hours should be allowed between coats and that all coats should be applied within 1 month

http://www.deksolje.com/pdf/technical-en-d2.pdf


As far as I am concerned it is another of those disappointing products that did not fulfill expectations. Sikkens Cetol Marine ( now replaced by International Wood Skin ) is the one that has !
 
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another - from me as well...

In the med sun only worked for half the summer, don't find this acceptable tbh.
Have another 2+lt and don't know what to do with it...

V.
 
Sorry to add to the negatives but I tried Deks Olje 1 on the cockpit teak. Difficult to apply and flaked off after several months in the Med
 
The technical data sheet does not say it should be dry only that a minimum of 12 hours should be allowed between coats and that all coats should be applied within 1 month

Thanks, I did read the datasheet but I was hoping someone that's used it recently could confirm my assumptions.

Well 2nd coat went on an hour ago, we'll see how it goes, I've started so I'll finish. It's just trim so only small pieces that aren't being walked/rubbed and new wood. I had heard D1 needs routine reapplication but I was hoping the D2 would give it a bit of protection/longivity.

Ah well.
 
If in the UK I'd say it's too cold and dewey to apply for a good while yet, I did a previous boats' woodwork following the D1 and D2 to the letter one bright winter's day, but it ' bloomed ' on a damp night so I had to scrape the whole %&^**&&&^ lot off and start again !

Woodskin seems far superior.
 
I've just started "glossing" my winter woodwork and applied the first coat of D2 last night. I've planned on another coat tonight but it still feels wet or tacky is this usual? The D1 goes on wet on wet but it doesn't say that in the D2 instructions, but it does say allow 3 days to set up and dry so I'm assuming it's ok to recoat whilst tacky.

Just thought I would ask before wrecking it and having to start again.

Oh it's in a heated room as well so well within working temperatures.

I bet you wish you had never posted now!!!
 
If in the UK I'd say it's too cold and dewey to apply for a good while yet, I did a previous boats' woodwork following the D1 and D2 to the letter one bright winter's day, but it ' bloomed ' on a damp night so I had to scrape the whole %&^**&&&^ lot off and start again !

Woodskin seems far superior.

The Op says that he is working in heated room ....
 
:D

I'm a believer in trying things for yourself. I'm not holding my breath but I'm going to use the whole tin and get my monies worth.

Unfortunately the more you put on the more difficult it is to get off when it fails around September time! My experience is much the same as others, but I made an even bigger mistake by doing a 10m tall beautiful mast with it. It failed in patches after less than a year but the few bits that did stick were a nightmare to remove.

Suggest you pre-empt the future misery and cut your losses by taking it off now and using something else - Woodskin would be my suggestion.
 
If it goes on right, people swear by it. The rest of us swear at it, and nobody seems to know why it works fro some and not others. I worked hard to ensure that I followed the instructions precisely. Preparation, temperature, coating times, all scrupulously followed. It looked like a million dollars - for about six months, then it started to lift, and the second season it looked so dreadful I scraped it all off again, and slapped ona coulle of coats of Sadolin Clear Gloss door paint. That was five years ago. It was only last winter I needed to clean off and recoat. Not bad for a temporary stop gap slapped on quickly in indifferent conditions!

There is no obvious reason fro the patchy results. When it works it is brilliant, but there seems to be a less than 50% success rate judging from these pages.

I am going to stick my arm up to support D1.
I used it on the exterior of a hardwood conservatory in a wet part of Devon and it has been brilliant.
I applied 6-8 coats over 4-5 days, which is reallyeasy and quick as you can slap it in like water and it just soaks in. I then let it cure for a few days and then added two more coats, which have a silky surface sheen.
that has lasted two Devon winters with just a single top up coat each spring. Looks fantastic and totally rejuvenated the very grey/ mouldy hardwood.
i did sand it totally back to bare , clean wood though , as they say you must ( or use product to strip off all previous treatments or varnishes).
pictures available of pre and post of anyone doesn’t believe me.
I was surprised to see the negative reports as it has also worked v well on outdoors wood for me elsewhere, including near the sea.
As you say, seems to work for some and not others. Maybe it needs the multiple coats. I would like to try wood skin, but as I now have a product that works really well for me , not that motivated to change
 
Woodskin also falls off after some years and can't be patch repaired without having two totally different colours.
I used it on the exterior of a hardwood
What hardwood ? I would assume it's not teak which does not like being coated with anything when used externally, but varnish is fine internally.
 
I am going to stick my arm up to support D1.
I used it on the exterior of a hardwood conservatory in a wet part of Devon and it has been brilliant.
I applied 6-8 coats over 4-5 days, which is reallyeasy and quick as you can slap it in like water and it just soaks in. I then let it cure for a few days and then added two more coats, which have a silky surface sheen.
that has lasted two Devon winters with just a single top up coat each spring. Looks fantastic and totally rejuvenated the very grey/ mouldy hardwood.
i did sand it totally back to bare , clean wood though , as they say you must ( or use product to strip off all previous treatments or varnishes).
pictures available of pre and post of anyone doesn’t believe me.
I was surprised to see the negative reports as it has also worked v well on outdoors wood for me elsewhere, including near the sea.
As you say, seems to work for some and not others. Maybe it needs the multiple coats. I would like to try wood skin, but as I now have a product that works really well for me , not that motivated to change
Welcome to the forum.

Coatings/varnish is one of the most contested topics on this forum with some strongly held views.

My question about your support for this coating is why are so chuffed with 2 years? Why not use a proper porous woodstain of which there are many on the market and enjoy 10 years+? I use 2 part , that is base coat and top coat from Dulux in the past and now Sikkens and I have sheds in my garden that are 30 years old - softwood, rather than nardwood that are 30 years old and have had only one top up coat, barge boards that were fitted in 1982 and are still original, a conservatory that went from 1982 to 2015 with only one recoat - mixture of cedar ann mahogany.

Most of this boat is Woodskin and 15 years old at the time of the photo. The mast I referred to in post 17 is on this boat. After the failure of D1/2 it was coated in Sikkens Novotop and the first lot sis 10 years with no film failure and the second after stripping bare did 15 years with some failure after being stored in the open with one side permanently up. It is now coated in Sikkens Cetol HLS/No7. I will be disappointed if it lasts less than 10 years.
IMG_20190717_171849.jpg
 
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