30boat
N/A
Can you fit an angle grinder there? Cutting the excess off would make everything simple.
Deep socket needed
- Thread starter jimali
- Start date
Can you fit an angle grinder there? Cutting the excess off would make everything simple.
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Only if the keel fell off as you were mooring.
macd
Well-Known Member
He may have approved, but he'd also approve of ground effect, which is something most of us go to great lengths to avoid.
colind3782
Well-Known Member
Surveyor reports can be a pain. Mine "recommended" a bunch of cosmetic improvements that "he" thought would be nice. However, I'm only insured on the basis that I have completed ALL the surveyors recommendations.
jwilson
Well-Known Member
If it was my boat the last two things I'd want would be lots of steel dust/specks in the bilge and the heat of the grinding getting through to the (flammable) GRP hull. Unless you did it a tiny bit at a time you'd have near red-hot keelbolts.
30boat
N/A
I sympathise with the metal specs but if you use a 1mm thick cutting disk and don't force it the stud won't get too hot and the fiberglass won't certainly be set on fire.
ripvan1
Well-Known Member
You could always have a colleague at hand to provide a spray or fine stream of agua to overcome this - it's called positive thinking.
30boat
N/A
Worthy as the concept may be I don't think an electric grinder would appreciate getting wet.
TQA
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 20 Feb 2005
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- 6,815
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- Carribbean currently Grenada
No worries. Bit of damp cardboard and a damp rag if really concerned with the angle grinder.
If you have to resort to the gas axe you would want some thin metal sheet and a wet rag plus a hose just in case. Claire Barratt on the gas axe would be good.
ripvan1
Well-Known Member
Don't need to get it wet, lay down damp towels adjacent bolts with cardboard (as mentioned to deflect sparks onto towels and have jug of water handy - cut halfway thru' bolt, stop, remove grinder and spray bolt to cool down. Leave for few minutes then repeat -
any faults with that
PetiteFleur
Well-Known Member
Years ago, I had a similar problem and made a long socket by getting a suitable size of tube, heating the end red hot and knocking the end over a hex. nut of the correct size to make an internal hexagon. At the other end I made a plate with a 1/2" square hole for a ratchet wrench, the plate was then welded on. I can't remember what I used it for, but not boating related - more likely car related. I suspect I've still got it in my old tool box! The advantage of this method is you could get a torque wrench on it.
TeamSpirit
Well-Known Member
Your local motor factor will be able to get you the correct socket per your requirements same or next day delivery.
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
An experienced engineer, if he found his long-reach socket couldn't get onto the nut because of the excess thread, would probably amputate the excess with an angle grinder.
Might present a future problem if one wants to remove and replace the keel - but as the nuts had to be done up in the first place....
Might present a future problem if one wants to remove and replace the keel - but as the nuts had to be done up in the first place....
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
I always prefer to have a nut on threads before cutting off the spare. Taking the nut off re-aligns the threads so after a bit if smoothing with a file it's easy enough to put a nut on again.
30boat
N/A
Nope.
30boat
N/A
That's how I usually do it.