Deck socket - for anchor windlass remote

[Billjratt]

If we go back to the original problem, I installed a standard plug and socket 7 years ago and there has been no problem since. I keep it smeared with silicon grease and the windlass lives under a cover when not in use (possibly the secret of longevity?) The wiring on the socket is paralleled and led back to a 2-way centre off switch near the wheel so I can easily control the anchor single-handed.

The white "blue water keeper-outer" is made from a piece of nylon? chopping board, is kept in place by the weight of the chain and simply flips out of the way when the chain is veered.

 

[jwilson]

If we go back to the original problem, I installed a standard plug and socket 7 years ago and there has been no problem since. I keep it smeared with silicon grease and the windlass lives under a cover when not in use (possibly the secret of longevity?) The wiring on the socket is paralleled and led back to a 2-way centre off switch near the wheel so I can easily control the anchor single-handed.

The white "blue water keeper-outer" is made from a piece of nylon? chopping board, is kept in place by the weight of the chain and simply flips out of the way when the chain is veered.

I think the problem is that charterers are probably not as careful as you are always to put the cap back on. Then if they slosh some seawater over to wash down the decks the socket gets a nice salty bath. The plug/socket type you are using is the same as I have at present, and they are lucky to last a summer reliably. Easy enough to clean green off the plug end, but getting a good socket contact clean is difficult..

 

[prv]

The plug/socket type you are using is the same as I have at present, and they are lucky to last a summer reliably. Easy enough to clean green off the plug end, but getting a good socket contact clean is difficult..

Those ones are a bit crappy really, though I'm sure Billjratt's does OK with appropriate care. I had them on Kindred Spirit for the mast cables where they worked ok with WD40 and latterly Contralube applied at the annual mast-raising, but I wouldn't choose them for something that's regularly plugged and unplugged.

When we got the boat they all needed a good clean, which I did with a piece of wet-and-dry rolled around a suitable-sized piece of dowel. Not too difficult.

Pete

 

[concentrik]

I had similar problems, replacing a succession of sockets before deciding I didn't really need one. Like others I fitted a (cheap) wireless system with (expensive) contactor which works a treat. Range not a problem, at least it's reliable from the cockpit on the odd occasion I wind from there. I have a hardwired emergency pushbutton box which can be led out through the forepeak hatch but remains unused. In saying I have never yet used it I realise I am pretty much guaranteeing a wireless remote problem next time, but hey-ho, done it now.

 

[prv]

Like others I fitted a (cheap) wireless system with (expensive) contactor which works a treat. Range not a problem, at least it's reliable from the cockpit on the odd occasion I wind from there. I have a hardwired emergency pushbutton box which can be led out through the forepeak hatch but remains unused.

That's precisely what I have in mind too. And I don't know what the range on mine is, but it certainly works fine with the receiver in a metal shed and me in the house at the other end of a 20m garden.

There are similar units on eBay with extendable aerials on the transmitter, advertising range of hundreds of metres (1km was the biggest I saw). I'm quite tempted by the idea of wiring one of these up to my deck lights and / or masthead white, to help identify and board the boat in a dark but busy anchorage.

Pete

 

[GrahamM376]

That's precisely what I have in mind too. And I don't know what the range on mine is, but it certainly works fine with the receiver in a metal shed and me in the house at the other end of a 20m garden.

There are similar units on eBay with extendable aerials on the transmitter, advertising range of hundreds of metres (1km was the biggest I saw). I'm quite tempted by the idea of wiring one of these up to my deck lights and / or masthead white, to help identify and board the boat in a dark but busy anchorage.

Pete

I can't help but think how much fun one could have if they were variable frequency In answer to your earlier question, our also has a slight delay but it's not a problem once used to it.

 

[prv]

I can't help but think how much fun one could have if they were variable frequency

Heh - I see what you're getting at, but to be pedantic it's not a matter of frequency. The signals are coded, with each remote having its own code. The receivers either have the matching code permanently set in them, or have a button which can be used to record up to ten codes - in both cases all others will then be rejected. Both systems are available on eBay, described as "fixed" or "learning".

In answer to your earlier question, our also has a slight delay but it's not a problem once used to it.

Ta, I thought as much. It is a problem in my setup as I need to bring the anchor precisely home but no further. The minimum pulse that the "winch remote" model can produce will take the anchor from "too loose" to "liable to break something".

Pete

 

[jwilson]

It is a problem in my setup as I need to bring the anchor precisely home but no further. The minimum pulse that the "winch remote" model can produce will take the anchor from "too loose" to "liable to break something".
Pete

Most modern production boats including mine have the anchor/bow-roller/windlass lined up so that the normal way of stowing the anchor is just to wind in till it self-stows, stopping JUST before it tries to snap the chain or burn out the windlass motor with a stall. You need to be fairly precise. I would not want a remote that could be used from where you could not watch the last few feet come in.

 

[GrahamM376]

You need to be fairly precise. I would not want a remote that could be used from where you could not watch the last few feet come in.

That's not the case, it's a matter of inches, not feet. For final parking and pinning, I sometimes use the foot switches anyway as I have a 50/50 chance of having to lean over the bow and twist the anchor or it comes over the roller inverted.