plockton18
New Member
My boat, built in 1993, has a teak deck laid over a plywood sub-deck. The caulking has failed along a number of seams, and I am having the entire deck recaulked with Sikaflex. How long can I expect it to last?
Deck seams
- Thread starter plockton18
- Start date
sailorman
Well-Known Member
try re-posting on the "Classic" forum
lota of tar brushes there
lota of tar brushes there
LittleShip
Well-Known Member
Ooohhh! you can be such a Bitch at times?
/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
sailorman
Well-Known Member
Sorry /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Varnish Brushes /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Varnish Brushes /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
skipperscouse
Well-Known Member
mate just had his deck renewed [teak] .he used epoxy with black graphite added, bit messy to do but he just sanded it back to wood. looks great.
pvb
Well-Known Member
How flexible is epoxy?
Salty John
Well-Known Member
I assume the Sikaflex is a black polysulfide. It should last 15 to 20 years, but you can always recaulk in any areas that fail. By wetting the deck and then watching as it dries you will locate any bad seams - they remain wet when the rest of the deck has dried.
Phoenix of Hamble
Well-Known Member
Yes,
Thats just what I thought....
Thats just what I thought....
Mirelle
N/A
Be quite, quite sure that it is the correct grade of Sikaflex - what you want is DC 290, which is not the "regular" stuff.
Sikaflex is not a polysulphide; it is a polyurethane.
It goes without saying that you must use the specified primer and an appropriate bond breaker tape.
How thick is the teak planking and how is it secured to the plywood?
I would reckon ten years.
Sikaflex is not a polysulphide; it is a polyurethane.
It goes without saying that you must use the specified primer and an appropriate bond breaker tape.
How thick is the teak planking and how is it secured to the plywood?
I would reckon ten years.
skipperscouse
Well-Known Member
not much i shouldn't think but if deck is laid on ply shouldn't be a problem.
his deck was done proffesionally by scott metcalf , a boatbuilder in bangor north wales.
he's a wooden boat enthusiast and an exeptionally good shipwright.he swears by this method
regards, pete
his deck was done proffesionally by scott metcalf , a boatbuilder in bangor north wales.
he's a wooden boat enthusiast and an exeptionally good shipwright.he swears by this method
regards, pete
trouville
N/A
As your useing a proffessional make sure there useing two component polysulfide that will last longer than the one component.
Polyurathane seems to leak after two years! Polysulfide one component about ten years and two component more than ten probably twice that with small repairs before it will need redoing
Im rushing back and forth to the wash machine not far away!
For the two component they need a compressor sadly rare.As said hows the deck fixed? A boat next to me was haveing its deck done on a buget! The "proffesional" replaced screws and bungs by just screwing throught to the ply below!!!!last time i saw that the ply delaminated and the deck was leaking again as the water was wicked through by the un calked screws!!!
Untill i had one i thought a canvas deck would be far dryer and easier to manage!Not true!!Every screw thats used is a potental leak!!And more so with canvas i think!
Polyurathane seems to leak after two years! Polysulfide one component about ten years and two component more than ten probably twice that with small repairs before it will need redoing
Im rushing back and forth to the wash machine not far away!
For the two component they need a compressor sadly rare.As said hows the deck fixed? A boat next to me was haveing its deck done on a buget! The "proffesional" replaced screws and bungs by just screwing throught to the ply below!!!!last time i saw that the ply delaminated and the deck was leaking again as the water was wicked through by the un calked screws!!!
Untill i had one i thought a canvas deck would be far dryer and easier to manage!Not true!!Every screw thats used is a potental leak!!And more so with canvas i think!
jimbaerselman
Well-Known Member
My original 1988 15mm teak deck (on a 12.3m boat) was laid with Sikaflex, and lasted until 1998 when more than 10% of the seams were showing 'wet' after rain, with evidence of lifting on a couple of planks (newly exposed to English frosts).
I re-layed the lifted planks and stripped out and re-caulked throughout with Sikaflex 290DC, using the recommended base tape and and cleaning and priming the sides of the teak planks. Labour intensive job - about 6 man weeks and a complaining back! The deck had by then thinned down to 12mm (9mm in heavily trafficked areas). However, the previous owner had scrubbed quite a lot, and the vessel had lived in Australia.
After 8/9years more in European waters (5 in the Med) the decks still look good, with much less than 1% of the seam length showing signs of leakage (easily patched). The deck has lost about another 1 - 2mm of thickness (in a 'no scrub' regime).
So, the probability is that re-seaming should last 10 years, and at the end of that time you'll be looking at how to deal with thin teak planks rather than re-seaming again. Unless you keep that deck brush locked up.
I re-layed the lifted planks and stripped out and re-caulked throughout with Sikaflex 290DC, using the recommended base tape and and cleaning and priming the sides of the teak planks. Labour intensive job - about 6 man weeks and a complaining back! The deck had by then thinned down to 12mm (9mm in heavily trafficked areas). However, the previous owner had scrubbed quite a lot, and the vessel had lived in Australia.
After 8/9years more in European waters (5 in the Med) the decks still look good, with much less than 1% of the seam length showing signs of leakage (easily patched). The deck has lost about another 1 - 2mm of thickness (in a 'no scrub' regime).
So, the probability is that re-seaming should last 10 years, and at the end of that time you'll be looking at how to deal with thin teak planks rather than re-seaming again. Unless you keep that deck brush locked up.
alb40
Well-Known Member
Ive had the same problem with my boat's decks, with the stickaflex now deteriorating, the deck leaking, and the planks becomming too thin.
In the end, I epoxy coated the deck to strenthen it and stop the leaks. This was it the cost of losing the look of the teak, but I could live with that and some nice deck paint once the leaks above my bed stopped!
In the end, I epoxy coated the deck to strenthen it and stop the leaks. This was it the cost of losing the look of the teak, but I could live with that and some nice deck paint once the leaks above my bed stopped!
trouville
N/A
Quote: how to deal with thin teak planks rather than re-seaming again. Unless you keep that deck brush locked up. ****
You should NEVER scrub a teak deck with a brush as it takes all the soft grain out!!!! I used a one of those large sponges with the scratchy side like a large washing up sponge that worked well!
If you want to be very traditional when you have the baggy wrinkel in the rigging and rope fenders then you should use a large pumey stone thats best of all!!!Its not that hard if you dont let the deck get to grey.
You should NEVER scrub a teak deck with a brush as it takes all the soft grain out!!!! I used a one of those large sponges with the scratchy side like a large washing up sponge that worked well!
If you want to be very traditional when you have the baggy wrinkel in the rigging and rope fenders then you should use a large pumey stone thats best of all!!!Its not that hard if you dont let the deck get to grey.
jimbaerselman
Well-Known Member
Agreed. Never use a brush. Even the scratchy sponge is questionable, because it takes off a small amount of the proud hard grain - which is your guard against wear from deck shoes - if you wear them aboard.
Make sure the seams stand a little proud of the wood (masking tape job) - then they take a fair bit of the inevitable deck wear.
Make sure the seams stand a little proud of the wood (masking tape job) - then they take a fair bit of the inevitable deck wear.