deck prep for painting

richardh10

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Have accepted the fact that the only way I am going to get a decent deck finish is to strip off all the old paint before repainting. Has anybody tried one of those wire abrasive discs on a grinder to get the worst off before using something gentler to get a decent finish. Or will it be too savage. There are a number of layers of paint which look like they've been applied with a bog brush, so they are going to have to come off, and I tried a patch last year with a sander, and it took forever.

I want it to look good, and I don't mind taking some time over it, but not 12 months!

Any advice welcome

Cheers
 
Have accepted the fact that the only way I am going to get a decent deck finish is to strip off all the old paint before repainting. Has anybody tried one of those wire abrasive discs on a grinder to get the worst off before using something gentler to get a decent finish. Or will it be too savage. There are a number of layers of paint which look like they've been applied with a bog brush, so they are going to have to come off, and I tried a patch last year with a sander, and it took forever.

I want it to look good, and I don't mind taking some time over it, but not 12 months!

Any advice welcome

Cheers

If you have a steel deck the tool you suggest will be just fine! However, if it's wood or grp I wouldn't use any form of rotary abrasive tool. A belt sander will remove many layers of paint. You just have to keep it moving when you're using it, a figure-of-eight type motion is a good idea. However, you're likely to run into various obstructions unless you plan to take everything off the deck(?). A good orbital sander may also be worth considering.

I don't particularly like marine deck paint. I used Sandtex on my Settimo Velo and I'm very pleased with the result. It takes about three coats but it's easy to apply with a roller.
 
I used one of the rotary "twisted knot" gizmos on GRP (inside) and it was very effective. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't leave much of anything resembling a gel coat, though. I'd agree that it's probably worth trying a belt sander. That should yield a reasonable smooth/flat finish ready keyed for the new paint.

I'd suggest a chemical stripper first to shift the bulk of it, but now we've got a hosepipe ban so you can't sluice it off!

Rob.

P.S. sand blasting or slurry blasting would be effective, but you'll be clearing up for months and you're not allowed a hosepipe for the slurry...
 
You don't say what your deck is made of or what sort of paint you are removing. If it looks like it has been put on with a bog brush, maybe it is deck paint? My deck is canvas-covered wood and I take old deck paint off with a hot-air gun. It comes off in sheets. I can't see any reason to try to take paint off with abrasives unless using some form of abrasive blasting on steel. Any form of abrasive paper will clog (and be a long, slow job) and wire brushes will damage any surface softer than steel.

PS. If you don't have electricity for a heat gun, an old-fashioned paraffin or gas blow-lamp used with care will do just as well.
 
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use a paint stripper suitable for the material of which the boat is constructed.(i used black fryers, their tech department was very good)
Regards
Bacus
 
I have just finished painting my decks which were in a real state... numerous layers of different paint systems, then derelict for nine years.
What paint was left was extremely hard and a laughed at both a belt and random orbital sander.
On the principal that if I could not shift the paint it might as well stay I flattened the craters with a coarse angle grinder flap disc before painting with Kiwigrip.
Decks are fibregalass over ply (saloon) and ferro (side-decks).
 
Sorry to keep banging on about my decks, but I have started to strip off the paint this morning using a heat gun (why didn't I think of that?) and have become a bit alarmed at what has come off! As you can see from the photos there are either a lot of layers of paint, or I have gone back too far! Could somebody reassure me that all will be well when I repaint.

The black marks are where there was cracks in the paint and the water has got under. Presumably when these have dried out it will be ok to paint over

I too tried originally with an orbital sander. No wonder I didn't get very far!

The decks are fibreglass
 
What are the decks made of? It looks like GRP from the photo's in which case you really shouldn't be using a hot air gun on it! Plenty of paint on there though. Maybe use something agressive until you start to see the underneath and then remove the last bit with a belt sander?
 
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