Deck pads

oldbilbo

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I'm looking to make up some 2" pads to be fitted under cleats between the cleats and the deck - so the lines will run fair across capping rail - and will have thin s/s plate between the underside of cleats and pads/capping rail to avoid abrasion.

Of the several choices - oak 1" thick x 2, ply 1" thick x 2, a search for 2" solid hardwood in a timber suppliers, several layers of 18mm solid GRP/resin 'plank'.... what's to choose? There will, of course, be substantial backing pads below the decking as well, in the normal way.

The ply would need coating with epoxy resin before painting, I think. The oak may be OK 'au natural'.... then there's International Woodskin.

What does the team think?
 
HDPE. It will take screws, I wonder if you could drill and tap for a bolt.
http://www.directplastics.co.uk/hdpe-sheet

These folk are good also
http://www.bayplastics.co.uk/index.htm

I do have some HDPE chopping boards, thanks, which are much cheaper from IKEA than elsewhere, and some has been used to good effect as conformal backing pads for new skin fittings where the original 'cheap 'n cheerful' ply had begun to fail.... Sealing against water 'weeping' is provided by Sikaflex 291.

These 'upper' pads with their attached cleats will be through-bolted very securely to substantial 'lower' backing pads under the deck so that a burly surveyor is unlikely to do more than raise a hernia when he wields his crowbar looking for movement. 'Rip the bows off first' stuff......

The pads will be in compression sandwiched between the deck and the uppermost s/s plate, with the cleat above all, and carry no load themselves.

These HDPE chopping boards come in various colours..... :D
 
The plastic in chopping boards 'creeps' under load (bolt tension) and after the initial euphoria a few years ago that using it was the panacea for all backing plate jobs onboard, it is now seen to have severe limitations.

Stick some well sanded thicknesses of grp plank together with epoxy and then trim to size. No need for the top stainless sheet.
 
Most white HDPE chopping boards are not UV resistant, and the material is rather soft.
You cannot paint it to protect form UV.
So not the ideal stuff for under your cleats.
HermanD
 
Most white HDPE chopping boards are not UV resistant, and the material is rather soft.
You cannot paint it to protect form UV.
So not the ideal stuff for under your cleats.
HermanD

think you may find it's LDPE or maybe some other plastic. HDPE is routinely used for gunwales on GRP fishing boats, and keel bands on smaller boats. Definitely not soft.
 
there's are some excellent tables of the physical and chemical properties of plastic, here:

http://www.dynalabcorp.com/technical_info_hd_polyethylene.asp

Links are about halfway down.

I had a HDPE spray tank which enbrittled after a year being left outside. Perhaps the result of the chemical contents as well as UV. You don't see as many wood tanks as in days of yore. Barricoes, I mean :)
 
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I've got some 1 inch teak and some 2mm stainless!!!

You know, I read that initially as 'I've got some 1" steak and.......' Must be getting close to supper time. ;)

As for the stainless plate, that is most definitely needed - for there will be chain rattling across it from time to time. Whatever gets used - wood, GRP or plastic - its role will simply be to 'pack up' the steel plate to the level of the capping rails and protect them.
 
The plastic in chopping boards 'creeps' under load (bolt tension) and after the initial euphoria a few years ago that using it was the panacea for all backing plate jobs onboard, it is now seen to have severe limitations.

Stick some well sanded thicknesses of grp plank together with epoxy and then trim to size. No need for the top stainless sheet.

It is well worth fitting some SS plate over the rail that the ropes will run on. I have many spots on the little boat where the GRP has worn through the gel coat and into the GRP. Thin SS plate molded to the shape of the rail or other bump would solve this problem. I think aviation people use thin SS foil with a adhesive backing to stop erosion. might be worth trying aviation supply people good luck olewill
 
It is well worth fitting some SS plate over the rail that the ropes will run on. I have many spots on the little boat where the GRP has worn through the gel coat and into the GRP. Thin SS plate molded to the shape of the rail or other bump would solve this problem.....

There is a boaty product just like this already on the market here..... I'd name it but I 'recycled' the trade leaflet I picked up in Force 4 about it. It costs 'an arm and a leg' - or the retail price of one of those Manky Auld Boat projects that PBO magazine is so proud of.

Nevertheless, the idea is right.

As for the 'packing material' I'd rather use stuff I have, or can readily acquire. ( Now, can I raid an unguarded local school and filch some lab worktops...?)
 
I'm growing some in the attic but keep it well hidden....:cool:

I have a 32' polytunnel covered in white vinyl fabric, just visible from the main road peeping over the high wooden fence. It's full of boaty bits, peeps will not be surprised to hear, and every now and then the internal strip lights are 'ON' of an evening.

One day last summer our local Rural Beat Manager turned up at the front door. Now, I'd invited him to drop in on several occasions 'when passing', so it was no bother to put some coffee and a slice of SWBO's ginger cake onto the patio table, and sit in the sun. Small chat ran for a while, then faltered. Then the penny dropped.... "I'm sure you'll be curious about what I keep in my polytunnel. C'mon, I'll show you.... it's only right that, if one of your colleagues ever asks you, you should be able to say 'I know what's in there and there's no need for a special visit'...."

I guessed right. The beggar blushed.... so I showed him around my collection of not-yet-fitted kitchen units, inflatable dinghies, anchors and chains, rope, warps, plywood..... then he had the cheek to ask if there was any more coffee 'n cake. :rolleyes:
 
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