Deck mounting semi flexible solar panels (again?)

laika

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I'm serious considering covering some areas of deck with semi-flexible solar panels. I note the latest crop from my preferred budget chinese supplier are fibreglass backed (rather than aluminium). Anyone see a downside to that (it's being promoted as a positive for lightness)?

I saw a thread last year about attaching to the deck. I don't have a textured deck (but it is painted with paint with added grit or something). The default method seemed to be sikaflex, but is that 291 or 292? I don't much fancy drilling holes to bolt down the corners through the eyelets if that can be avoided. Jumbleduck was suggesting using velcro...how did that work out? Or how are other people securing semi-flexibles to the deck?

Last question is how people lead wires to through-deck fittings which aren't right next to panel's junction box (i.e. where you have two, or the junction box is on a side different to where eyou want to feed it through the deck. How do you stick the wire down and do you cover it with something to reduce the trip hazard?
 
Ive just installed a cheap 100w semi-flexible panel on the afterdeck with corners simply tied down to existing padeyes conveniently placed a few inches from each corner. Cant imagine it going anywhere though I might need to slip a couple of battens underneath if it gets too hot. Means I can easily remove and chuck in a locker or stick somewhere else when the girls demand the area for sunbathing. Fortunately only about a foot of cable before it disappears into the stern locker. Only did it last week so don't know if it will work but when I left it was happily putting out 2 amps at 4.30pm despite boom shadow. I have used old, redundant 'Superwind' wiring to batteries so am probably losing a lot to the dump regulator and the existing cabling which is thinner than the 16mm2 I had bought, but reckon it should be fine for topping up (we have a genset for bulk charge). Once I get used to it and what we need I'll do a dedicated circuit but still retaining the ability to move easily.
 
I recently fitted a 150w semi flexible on my (sliding) sunroof.

Fixed it down with Nail & Seal and Geocel The Works sealant & adhesive. No holes, no bother, no problem.
Importantly I also applied the sealant / adhesive all around the edges, as I've read that the main cause of premature failure is delamination.

I used these side entry deck glands for the wires, great although a tad pricey
http://www.force4.co.uk/department/...cable-gland-for-2-7mm-cable.html#.VTjey5Mnv58

Finally to stop the wires flapping about and protect them from uv and mechanical damage I wrapped them, and the MC4 connectors in spiral wrap.

Sorry don't have a photo to hand.
 
Jumbleduck was suggesting using velcro...how did that work out?

Very well so far, ie after a year. I visited the boat for the first time since the autumn last week and the solar panels are still held on with a vice like grip. No sign at all of velcro releasing from deck or panel.
 
For what it's worth, I've used screws at each corner after fitting replacement panels. The originals were Sikaflexed but we're a right pain to remove and cleaning up even more of a problem. I'd prefer a few small holes to that mess again.

Wires are led through the base of a dorade box which just happens to be in the right place, otherwise I'd have fitted low profile glands to get the wires below.
 
Very well so far, ie after a year. I visited the boat for the first time since the autumn last week and the solar panels are still held on with a vice like grip. No sign at all of velcro releasing from deck or panel.

I also use 3M dual lock to hold a 100w semiflex panel in place. The tape is stuck to a smooth surface, though. I don't think it would be successful on a textured surface.
 
I also use 3M dual lock to hold a 100w semiflex panel in place. The tape is stuck to a smooth surface, though. I don't think it would be successful on a textured surface.

I use the same stuff. Mine is on a basketweave moulded non-slip surface, with a gentle curve to it.
 
For what it's worth, I've used screws at each corner after fitting replacement panels. The originals were Sikaflexed but we're a right pain to remove and cleaning up even more of a problem. I'd prefer a few small holes to that mess again.

Wires are led through the base of a dorade box which just happens to be in the right place, otherwise I'd have fitted low profile glands to get the wires below.

Me too. My semi-flexible 38 watt panel was installed in around 1998 with a screw at each corner. It's still going strong, no trouble at all. It's just aft of the mast where other cable glands are so adding another was straightforward, no need for any cable clips or ducting.
 
Thanks all. So the conclusion is that very few people have multiple panels that they want to feed through a single deck gland, so most people can place the gland right next to the panel's junction box? I've got an irregular surface to fill (around hatches) so was looking at several smaller panels.

For those that screw down the panels, is this simply screw them down, or drill oversize hole, fill with epoxy then screw into epoxy (or am I being overly paranoid about getting the core wet?)

For the tape...presumably this makes the panels removable (which might be a good and bad thing...)

Thanks again
 
Don't glue it down. If it is at all like the crummy Marlec ones I fitted, the junction box will corrode away just as the guarantee runs out. Simple to unscrew and fill the holes, rather than having to chisel the damn thing off.
 
For the tape...presumably this makes the panels removable (which might be a good and bad thing...)

Thanks again

Yes, I move my panel if needed whilst at anchor to maximise charging. After some initial issues of self detaching in heavy weather, more tape has cured this problem.
 
Here's recent installation on my little Hunter.
I used the 3m super velcro to secure it and the side entry cable glands as detailed in an earlier post.
Without these , leading the cables through the deck gets difficult.

One advantage with having a sigle cable in a little loop from the panel to the gland is that i can put my clamp type meter around the cable and measure the current.

The marking out is only with a dryboard marker and comes off easily.

20150409_164141_zpsymspxlbp.jpg


20150409_164155_zpsoutr2sfw.jpg
 
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