Daylight Range Finder

Tudor,

As long as we are willing to learn and accept novel ideas (if they have merit) like a range finder - then we can only get better. I too look forward to some user information on applicability. Edit: So far broadband radar does what the range finder can do (and much more) though if you don't have boradband maybe a range finder might prove cheap and useful: close edit.

The other theory is that if you have a monster anchor you can anchor at short scope (which might solve the problem you outline) as the big anchor offers that supposed security - but its another theory that I have not seen tested sufficiently to offer any comfort (and not having even a reasonable sized anchor, nor a Med wharf nearby, I cannot test is myself :( ).

Jonathan
 
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A point not mentioned about range finders relying on graduated lenses is that like , say, a sextant, you need to know the height or length of the object you are looking at. So , if you are looking at a lighthouse of known height then provided you can hold the instrument still enough to read the scale ( A skill in itself) you can determine distance. However, one does not always anchor near light houses & then if one is too close the d..d thing will probably be too big for the scale rage on the lens.
Laser measurers are good up to 300metres ( mine is) but on land I often need a white target board to see the dot. So then I would need an arguement with the crew as to who would go ashore to hold it & then argue about them holding it still whilst I try to blind them & anyone around them with the laser.
Of course one could just guess where one was aiming it but you can imagine the panic in the shore side shopping centre when a red dot appears on someones head & a crowd of oddly dressed muppets appear on a boat from nowhere shouting obscenities at all and sundry
 
The other theory is that if you have a monster anchor you can anchor at short scope (which might solve the problem you outline) as the big anchor offers that supposed security - but its another theory that I have not seen tested sufficiently to offer any comfort (and not having even a reasonable sized anchor, nor a Med wharf nearby, I cannot test is myself :( ).

Jonathan
Not really much of a theory, generally only practiced and recommended by a very few specialised high latitude boats.
 
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You need to leave enough room when you drop the anchor to have a reasonable scope when the stern reaches the quay. Usually dropping the anchor 3 or 4 boat lengths out is about right but it's not critical. What is critical is that if you drop too soon and don't have much length of chain you run out of chain before the stern gets close enough to step off. My solution to this is to carry more chain rather than start faffing about with a rangefinder as the extra chain comes in useful in other situations. :)

Richard

That's the main reason I wish I'd bought more chain when I chucked out the 35m plus rope and replaced it with 60m. Too often we've come up short 10 feet off a quay and had to go back. I do have another 60m of decent warp which I could attach but would rather not. I still think practice rather than a range finder is the way forward and now we're back in Croatia next season after 3 years in Greece it won't be an issue as laid lines are everywhere (hooray!)
 
I'm only proving to Tudor there is nothing wrong with learning!

So, to further my education.

Then ideally to safely or reliably to Med moor (without laid lines) one really needs a minimum of 75m of chain? Would this be a reasonable length?

Jonathan
 
I'm only proving to Tudor there is nothing wrong with learning!

So, to further my education.

Then ideally to safely or reliably to Med moor (without laid lines) one really needs a minimum of 75m of chain? Would this be a reasonable length?

Jonathan

A good question. Thinking aloud here: let's assume a 12m boat and let's assume that in aiming for 4 lengths off the quay you occasionally misjudge it (or alternatively you get the 4 correct but the water is unusally deep), then 5 lengths would be 60m plus you need a bit extra because you need the hypotenuse rather than the opposite length ..... so 75m should be fine.

I upgraded from 50m to 100m chain but that was more because I wanted to anchor in max 20m depths in Croatia where the seabed shelves away deeply rather than Med moor in Greece.

Richard
 
That's the main reason I wish I'd bought more chain when I chucked out the 35m plus rope and replaced it with 60m. Too often we've come up short 10 feet off a quay and had to go back. I do have another 60m of decent warp which I could attach but would rather not. I still think practice rather than a range finder is the way forward and now we're back in Croatia next season after 3 years in Greece it won't be an issue as laid lines are everywhere (hooray!)

Skippered charter boat trying to tie up @ Katakolo quay - after the 5th try (and running out of scope each time) they finally tied up and the tearful (Greek) skipper confided: - "They said they spoke English..."
He had 100m of chain on board.
 
A good question. Thinking aloud here: let's assume a 12m boat and let's assume that in aiming for 4 lengths off the quay you occasionally misjudge it (or alternatively you get the 4 correct but the water is unusally deep), then 5 lengths would be 60m plus you need a bit extra because you need the hypotenuse rather than the opposite length ..... so 75m should be fine.

I upgraded from 50m to 100m chain but that was more because I wanted to anchor in max 20m depths in Croatia where the seabed shelves away deeply rather than Med moor in Greece.

Richard

In practice the 60m has always been fine even with swell and strong cross-winds once we've tied up but the issue is having to finely judge when to drop it. The more chain you have the more leeway you have for misjudging 4 boat lengths for 5 or whatever so it's about avoiding unncessessary hassle rather than needing it for security. So the 100m of stainless steel 8mm (rather than my current galvanised 10mm) is still tempting when I next have some spare cash.

Of course too much chain out means you may well tangle with boats' anchors on the other side of the harbour in some places.
 
I'm only proving to Tudor there is nothing wrong with learning!

So, to further my education.

Then ideally to safely or reliably to Med moor (without laid lines) one really needs a minimum of 75m of chain? Would this be a reasonable length?

Jonathan

Here's what happens. You or wife drops anchor at the perfect spot about 5 boats lengths off the quay. You then motor back to the quay. You need to keep paying out the chain as you go so that you are not fighting it. I tend to let it free-fall. It is ideal to stop paying out when about 1 boat length off the quay and continue motoring in the hope that the anchor will set. Then pay lots more chain out so that you reach the quay with ease, to throw you lines ashore. Once tied to the quay, you take up the slack on the anchor and its surprising how much comes back on board. If you only have 60m of chain you might find it hard to get to the quay although it is probably the final amount you might deploy. So 80m would be better, I have 100m - although never paid it all out yet.

Everyone writes/talks about how many boat lengths away to drop. But the depth is still to be considered.

In Greek town quays, one is usually anchoring into a bay with no-one facing you. The main issue is getting the anchor tight enough to cope with the swell. In some marinas - such as Mykonos, there was only 50m from our bow to the bow of the boat across on the facing pontoon. So it was best to drop to the side of the bow of the boat opposite and reverse from there!

If you sailing just you and Mrs, then a remote for the windlass is a boon. It frees your partner from being at the bow letting out the anchor to come to the stern to throw lines. Especially with a centre cockpit when the helmsman cannot throw the lines.

Final learning point, is to take the tension off the windlass by using a snubber. When anchoring free, the pull on the windlass is not that great unless the wind gets up. In contrast, when med mooring on the anchor, there is lots of strain, and its better to have a long length of snubber to a mid-ship cleat to preserve your windlass.

TudorSailor
 
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