Danish oil / teak oil question

[webcraft]

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I have a new piece of iroko as a bridge deck top and cockpit seat tops in marine ply that are grey and urgently in need of some kind of finish.

Obviously I need these surfaces to be non-slip, and low maintenance.

So - danish oil, teak oil, linseed oil and if so which one? Any hints or tips? Are there temperature limits for application?

- W

 

[Hoolie]

In my, perhaps rather limited, experience none of these work for very long. Ranked for stickiness I would say linseed is top, teak oil second and Danish oil the least sticky. I've tried all sorts on teak and I haven't found any thing yet that works ... ...

 

[GrahamM376]

I use Rustins Danish Oil quite a bit for indoor items but wouldn't use it on boat exterior woodwork. Have used International Woodskin on sapele cockpit table and that has lasted 3 Algarve summers and 2 winters so far without recoating.

 

[Minchsailor]

I once got some Danish Oil, as it was all that was available (I was looking for teak oil), but it was more like a varnish.

 

[GrahamM376]

I once got some Danish Oil, as it was all that was available (I was looking for teak oil), but it was more like a varnish.

It is a tung oil and varnish mix, with a few more ingredients.

 

[Tranona]

Oil is a waste of time if the items are exposed. Best type of finish (easy application, durable finish) is a porous woodstain such as International Woodskin. For ply locker lids deck paint is probably better if you want a non slip finish, although you could add non slip granules to Woodskin if you wanted a bright finish.

 

[Kelpie]

I've been reasonably pleased with Woodskin.
At this time of year, worth taking things home to work on if at all possible.

 

[Normalfornorfolk]

I'd look at Sikkens Marine products. Never used it myself but heard good reports and their non-nautical range is excellent stuff.

 

[Kylora]

I found that the problem with any type of oil on ply is that the glue line stops the absorption so the veneer only holds a very small amount of oil, and it lasts for less than one season.

A breathable wood skin type of product is better. Quick and easy to apply, and little preparation needed before recoating. They will have a stain, but just chose something very light coloured, antique pine, or similar.

Ash

 

[KINGFISHER 9]

Deks Olje D1.

 

[JumbleDuck]

Deks Olje has worked well for me, and if you only use No 1 it has a not-too-slippy matt finish. I've never had much luck with any of the oils - they're stick, don't soak in much and don't last long. Woodskin failed miserably on my teak but I hear good reports of it on less oily wood. I now use Teak Wonder (cleaner then brightener then sealer) on the teak.

 

[webcraft]

Deks Olje has worked well for me, and if you only use No 1 it has a not-too-slippy matt finish. I've never had much luck with any of the oils - they're stick, don't soak in much and don't last long. Woodskin failed miserably on my teak but I hear good reports of it on less oily wood. I now use Teak Wonder (cleaner then brightener then sealer) on the teak.

Is Deks Olje not an oil of some sort?

Would you use it on locker lids and the bridge deck step?

- W

 

[webcraft]

I've been reasonably pleased with Woodskin.
At this time of year, worth taking things home to work on if at all possible.

Is it slippy if you use it for bits you will be standing on?

- W

 

[MM5AHO]

I'm using Le Tonkinois a French product that is a mix of processed Tung oil and Linseed Oil, in such a way that it becomes Varnish.
Other users have claimed it to do 6 years exposed service, and can easily be overcoated with minimal preparation.
For the items I've coated so far it appears pretty good, but I have yet to put those items to see and test them. But I'm sick of expensive varnished that start to fade, crack, etc at the end of the first season.

 

[JumbleDuck]

I'm using Le Tonkinois a French product that is a mix of processed Tung oil and Linseed Oil, in such a way that it becomes Varnish.

"Smell that. Remember the smell? It's your Grandad's workshop, isn't it ..."

 

[doug748]

Is it slippy if you use it for bits you will be standing on?

- W

For general stuff I have never had a problem with Woodskin but Sikkins Filter 7 Plus seems almost as good and is available at half the price.

I would not be keen on either for locker tops as the finish does not wear well. I use ordinary common or garden woodstain, I like Blackfryer:

http://www.blackfriar.co.uk/product/exterior-woodstain/

Note it is the "Tradional" ie solvent based. No idea how good the water based versions are. It stands up pretty well to tough use but may be too slippy for you, I don't mind it.

 

[Tranona]

Is Deks Olje not an oil of some sort?

Would you use it on locker lids and the bridge deck step?

- W

Yes, and in my view another waste of time effort and money. It is like water so not easy to apply as it runs everywhere. Gives a nice matt finish when you have just done it, but disappears in a matter of days as it evaporates. I have cut through wood that has been coated and no sign of it penetrating any further than the surface.

If you pored a much in as you could - until the surface remains wet, then left it for a week in the canaries which I assume you are still aiming for there will be no sign of it when you come back apart from a dark er surface.

If you want ply to survive you need to coat it with a solid coating.

 

[webcraft]

.
So Woodskin is looking like the favourite at the moment. I realise it will need regular re-doing on surfaces like locker lids, but I gather that is easy to do with virtually no preparation.

- W

 

[Tranona]

.
So Woodskin is looking like the favourite at the moment. I realise it will need regular re-doing on surfaces like locker lids, but I gather that is easy to do with virtually no preparation.

- W

Should last 2-3 years with 3 coats. Overcoating is just a light rub down and a new coat.

 

[webcraft]

Should last 2-3 years with 3 coats. Overcoating is just a light rub down and a new coat.

You've sold me it.

- W