vas
Well-Known Member
following discussion on http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...der-voltage-protection-on-Danfoss-BD35F/page5 thread, my latest findings are deviating from the original Qs so time for a new thread.
Repeating a few of the info on the abovementioned thread to make a coherent case.
I have 2 fridges onboard both with BD35F compressors.
A Waeco RPD110 with the 101N0220 and
a Virtifrigo 85lt with the 101N0210
Boat is 24V with 4X180Ah wet cell service batteries, 14m old.
I've had problems with the Waeco throughout the season, running very little, stopping soon after I'd stop motoring, not a single day did it manage to run for the whole night, food (or rather drinks after I threw away the first lot...) was lukewarm in the morning. OK ambient was circa 40C...
The Virtifrigo was fine but turned out it was running on 12V through the dropper playing havoc to other 12V devices every 15-20mins when it was firing up, mainly the NMEA2000 screens and depth/gps mushroom feeding the Garmin plotter.
Simple I thought, wired it to 24V, Virtifrigo refused to fire up.
Cue in the discussion in the abovementioned thread, and me building two test cables one with 25Ω or so, one straight with 0Ω. For sure managed to sort out the Waeco early stopping problems when current dropped to 25V... but didn't help Virtifrigo firing up on 24V.
Fine, after reading around, managed to remove the controller 101N0210 assuming it was slightly dead. Tested with a voltometer, things looked fine as in the three pin plug to the compressor had (no load-disconnected) 10.5V AC between any three pins and approx 18V AC again between any of the three pins on 12 and 24V respectively.
Furthermore, the compressor shows approx 3Ω between any pair of pins which is what is recommended apparently.
More headscratching, decided to remove the controller from the Waeco (now that I new the way only took me a minute compared to a quarter of an hour on the Virtifrigo...) Tried the Waeco controller to the Virtifrigo at 24V, nada. At 12V it worked fine.
Tried the Virtifrigo controller to the Waeco, fridge worked nicely on 24V (haven't got 12V on the Waeco so didn't bother..)
Right, it sort of proves that the controllers are not to blame but the compressor is.
Logical conclusion bar a tiny detail. Compressors are apparently three phase motors with a 3pin connector (dunno how that works tbh!) and in theory the same juice is sent from the controller to the compressor no matter if 12V or 24V is supplied...
Except that it doesn't with no load. With a bit of effort I'll be able to check tomorrow what happens with the controller connected and see what sort of current I get on 12 and 24V
Anyone familiar with that compressor?
Is what I state above OK or bull?
I'd accept the failure if indeed the controller was feeding current to two pins each time and the respective windings inside the compressor did the work one at a time. However, both controllers seem to be pumping AC to all pins no matter what the input current is
.
I seem to get lots of info on the controller but discussion on the compressor is typically no, wont break must abuse it way too much to fail (not really helpful)
I assume this is a replacement job (rather cheap on ebay) which also means a fridgeman coming on board to connect/weld to the fridge freezer panel, regass it and check it out.
Alternatively, I buy another dropper dedicated for it, but I hate kludges... (as much as I hate wasting money)
Or final option is to convert the fridge to watercooled and get a new compressor/controller/cooler thing altogether (but that I think is inx 500euro)
Since tomorrow morning I'll run out of ideas, any pointers/ideas welcomed!
cheers
V.
Repeating a few of the info on the abovementioned thread to make a coherent case.
I have 2 fridges onboard both with BD35F compressors.
A Waeco RPD110 with the 101N0220 and
a Virtifrigo 85lt with the 101N0210
Boat is 24V with 4X180Ah wet cell service batteries, 14m old.
I've had problems with the Waeco throughout the season, running very little, stopping soon after I'd stop motoring, not a single day did it manage to run for the whole night, food (or rather drinks after I threw away the first lot...) was lukewarm in the morning. OK ambient was circa 40C...
The Virtifrigo was fine but turned out it was running on 12V through the dropper playing havoc to other 12V devices every 15-20mins when it was firing up, mainly the NMEA2000 screens and depth/gps mushroom feeding the Garmin plotter.
Simple I thought, wired it to 24V, Virtifrigo refused to fire up.
Cue in the discussion in the abovementioned thread, and me building two test cables one with 25Ω or so, one straight with 0Ω. For sure managed to sort out the Waeco early stopping problems when current dropped to 25V... but didn't help Virtifrigo firing up on 24V.
Fine, after reading around, managed to remove the controller 101N0210 assuming it was slightly dead. Tested with a voltometer, things looked fine as in the three pin plug to the compressor had (no load-disconnected) 10.5V AC between any three pins and approx 18V AC again between any of the three pins on 12 and 24V respectively.
Furthermore, the compressor shows approx 3Ω between any pair of pins which is what is recommended apparently.
More headscratching, decided to remove the controller from the Waeco (now that I new the way only took me a minute compared to a quarter of an hour on the Virtifrigo...) Tried the Waeco controller to the Virtifrigo at 24V, nada. At 12V it worked fine.
Tried the Virtifrigo controller to the Waeco, fridge worked nicely on 24V (haven't got 12V on the Waeco so didn't bother..)
Right, it sort of proves that the controllers are not to blame but the compressor is.
Logical conclusion bar a tiny detail. Compressors are apparently three phase motors with a 3pin connector (dunno how that works tbh!) and in theory the same juice is sent from the controller to the compressor no matter if 12V or 24V is supplied...
Except that it doesn't with no load. With a bit of effort I'll be able to check tomorrow what happens with the controller connected and see what sort of current I get on 12 and 24V
Anyone familiar with that compressor?
Is what I state above OK or bull?
I'd accept the failure if indeed the controller was feeding current to two pins each time and the respective windings inside the compressor did the work one at a time. However, both controllers seem to be pumping AC to all pins no matter what the input current is
.I seem to get lots of info on the controller but discussion on the compressor is typically no, wont break must abuse it way too much to fail (not really helpful)
I assume this is a replacement job (rather cheap on ebay) which also means a fridgeman coming on board to connect/weld to the fridge freezer panel, regass it and check it out.
Alternatively, I buy another dropper dedicated for it, but I hate kludges... (as much as I hate wasting money)
Or final option is to convert the fridge to watercooled and get a new compressor/controller/cooler thing altogether (but that I think is inx 500euro)
Since tomorrow morning I'll run out of ideas, any pointers/ideas welcomed!
cheers
V.
