Damaged ST60 Cable

[Ian_Rob]

In cutting a new access panel in my engine compartment, I have damaged a 3 core, screened ST60 (LIYCY) cable that was sandwiched between the compartment and the sound insulation. I would like to have used 3 pin, shielded connectors to make a repair but they don’t seem to be readily available. Does anybody happen to know a source or can suggest an alternative?

Thanks.

 

[matthewriches]

How long is the Cable? can you replace it? May have one in my Collection you are welcome to?

 

[matthewriches]

If it is an arse to remove then a few red glue lined butt crimps will satisfy. Can always put a bit of heat shrink over the lot To hide the sins lol

How long is the Cable? can you replace it? May have one in my Collection you are welcome to?

 

[pvb]

If it is an arse to remove then a few red glue lined butt crimps will satisfy. Can always put a bit of heat shrink over the lot To hide the sins lol

That's what I'd do - you can bet it won't be easy to remove if it's behind the insulation panels.

 

[matthewriches]

Better still, ignore it, do without the ST 60 and sit down to some Broadside and kettle chips.

That's what I'd do - you can bet it won't be easy to remove if it's behind the insulation panels.

 

[pvb]

Better still, ignore it, do without the ST 60 and sit down to some Broadside and kettle chips.

Not sure Adnams approve of new-fangled kettle chips!

 

[matthewriches]

Nope, but they are lovely. Better than salty nuts

Not sure Adnams approve of new-fangled kettle chips!

 

[captainboo]

If you have the space and can temporarily extract more cable then salvage a piece of shielding/screening from another cable long enough to bridge across the join area and be in contact with the existing screening either side.

Put this on first with a piece of heatshrink long enough to cover the whole thing. Then solder and heat shink the cores wires together, slide the screening over and then heatshrink to finish.

The piece of screening can be pushed together to make it expand and fit over the cable and then stretched out again to cover the join area.

 

[prv]

If you have the space and can temporarily extract more cable then salvage a piece of shielding/screening from another cable long enough to bridge across the join area and be in contact with the existing screening either side.

Assuming that "3 core" means it's Seatalk rather than an analogue transducer cable, I honestly wouldn't worry too much about the screen. Old seatalk is pretty robust, it signals at 12v and the data rate is very slow by modern standards. All sorts of horrible-looking old lashups with random cable and choc-blocks (and no screen) seem to work perfectly reliably

3-way Superseal connectors are available, see eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140938481535 . But there's no reason for this joint to be demountable, so like others I would use either solder or crimps and seal the whole thing inside adhesive-lined heatshrink.

JG Tech sell the cable by the metre if extra length is needed to make the repair.

Pete

 

[Ian_Rob]

Thankyou for the replies. I haven’t had time to trace it and I am therefore not yet sure what it serves nor how long it is but it must be 6 - 7 metres long I guess.

It’s has three cores, white, brown, green/yellow with braided shielding and labelled SAB BRÖCKSKES · D-VIERSEN · LIYCY 3 x 0.34mm2 and overstamped ST60 (upside down)

It seems to be still available from SAB as Item No 03150334 but presumably they will not sell in short lengths.

Thankyou.

I’ll investigate further and take a decision on what to do depending on how easy it will be to replace.

 

[prv]

It’s has three cores, white, brown, green/yellow with braided shielding and labelled SAB BRÖCKSKES · D-VIERSEN · LIYCY 3 x 0.34mm2 and overstamped ST60 (upside down).

Hmm, ok. In that case it’s not standard Seatalk cable. Could possibly be an ST60 speed transducer cable (if there’s one more core that you didn’t spot due to the damage), or the whole ST60 aspect is a complete red herring and just some obscure and irrelevant designation of the cable itself.

If it is the speed transducer cable, the screen has its own terminal at the instrument end so is presumably important, and you should ensure it’s properly connected in the repair.

Obvious question at this point - do you actually have Raymarine ST60 instruments? I assumed you did based on the use of “ST60” in your original description - I didn’t realise you were just reading it off the cable.

Pete

 

[Ian_Rob]

Yes, ST60+.

Would the speed transducer cable run back to the Chartplotter or just to the Smartpilot?

Could it possibly be connected to the ST6002 Autopilot?

PS Definitely just three cores.

 

[prv]

Yes, ST60+.

Would the speed transducer cable run back to the Chartplotter or just to the Smartpilot?

Neither - to the ST60 speed display. This converts the analogue pulses and voltages from the transducer into speed and temperature values, displays them, and also outputs them as digital data on the Seatalk bus. The chartplotter and pilot will pick them up from there.

Pete

 

[prv]

PS Definitely just three cores.

Well, the ST60 speed manual says it has brown, white, green, screen - and red. Seems very close to yours, but not quite.

Maybe there was a rare variation for some reason.

Pete

 

[Ian_Rob]

Thanks Pete.

I am down next weekend antifouling and will hopefully have time to look into this aswell. I’ll start by just switching on the instruments to see which one isn’t working. The cable at the speed transducer is black compared to the cream cable that I have damaged so it is either already joined somewhere or it relates to something else.