wotayottie
Well-Known Member
previous owners of my boat have been fairly rough with the anodised ally of both mast and toe rail. has nayone found and effective way of covering up damage to silver anodising to make it near invisible?
damaged anodising
- Thread starter wotayottie
- Start date
boatmike
Well-Known Member
Making in invisible is difficult. Protecting areas of damage from corrosion requires a product called "Aluchrome" Others may be able to tell you where to get it. I have a pot I have had for a long time..... Sorry I can't be more helpful.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
Some interesting info on alochrome/aluchrome here
maxi77
Well-Known Member
A quick google gives you
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html
Good luck
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html
Good luck
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
No easy way, that won't stand out like a sore thumb.
Essentially you etch the bare aluminium, then you apply zinc chromate (which turns it yellow).
There are a number of proprietary systems on the market, Aluchrome, Allochrome 120.
Be very careful of the etching acids, they're highly reactive and extremely dangerous, use a full suit, gloves and a mask.
Alternatively, just clean mechanically and cover with clear lacquer - won't last as long as anodising, but will protect for 4-5 years.
I suppose the bits are to big to get re-anodised? It's not a complex or expensive process, and you can set up your own anodising plant - for small bits - because you need a source of DC power which increases exponentially as to the surface area you are depositing.
PS Duralac, theoretically, works just fine - barium not zinc chromate. I've some on a damaged toerail (by accident) and serendipity has struck and that bit is just fine.
Essentially you etch the bare aluminium, then you apply zinc chromate (which turns it yellow).
There are a number of proprietary systems on the market, Aluchrome, Allochrome 120.
Be very careful of the etching acids, they're highly reactive and extremely dangerous, use a full suit, gloves and a mask.
Alternatively, just clean mechanically and cover with clear lacquer - won't last as long as anodising, but will protect for 4-5 years.
I suppose the bits are to big to get re-anodised? It's not a complex or expensive process, and you can set up your own anodising plant - for small bits - because you need a source of DC power which increases exponentially as to the surface area you are depositing.
PS Duralac, theoretically, works just fine - barium not zinc chromate. I've some on a damaged toerail (by accident) and serendipity has struck and that bit is just fine.