D1-30 Oil Change?

AndyPandy

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Hey Guys,

just gonna change the oil (first time as its now out of warranty) and it says in the book to use 20W50.

Is this correct as the only place I can find such oil is Halfords and the website says its for classic cars from the 70s and 80s?

Any advice for this (wanna be) mechanic greatly appreciated,

Andy
 
Hey Guys,

just gonna change the oil (first time as its now out of warranty) and it says in the book to use 20W50.

Is this correct as the only place I can find such oil is Halfords and the website says its for classic cars from the 70s and 80s?

Any advice for this (wanna be) mechanic greatly appreciated,

Andy

Asda 15>40 @ aprox £12 per 5lts ( was £7 a year ago :mad: )
 
I am about to also change the oil in a D1-30. The manual shows a drain pipe which looks like the oil dipstick hole but it does not state this as such. Can someone confirm the drain pipe is the dipstick hole?
Thanks
 
I am about to also change the oil in a D1-30. The manual shows a drain pipe which looks like the oil dipstick hole but it does not state this as such. Can someone confirm the drain pipe is the dipstick hole?
Thanks
The 2020 & 2030 series engines have a short pipe with rubber cap below the dip stick pipe for access to sump but not easy to reach, dip stick pipe works using a Pela though. I don't know the D series engine.
 
You can get the oil you need from a VP agent (Keypart is good) labeled VDS-3.
There is an oil suck-out tube with a rubber cap over it below the dip-stick, though i've found i get more oil out thro the dip-stick hole. If you use the suck-out tube make sure you use a new cap and get it fully on, which requires strong fingers. There has been the odd problem where the cap has come off allowing oil to spill into the bilge.

John
 
I am about to also change the oil in a D1-30. The manual shows a drain pipe which looks like the oil dipstick hole but it does not state this as such. Can someone confirm the drain pipe is the dipstick hole?
Thanks



The D1-30 has a separate drain pipe [with a rubber plug] that takes a 6mm ext dia extractor tube.

Volvo dealers say that the plug should be replaced each season as they can apparently work loose [?]
 
I think there may be variations on these engines; my mate's D1-20 does not have a separate oil drain tube, he has to use the dipstick tube.
 
I know that this is a drift from the original question, but I think everyone should be aware of the existance of that rubber cap.
I have a D1-20 and inadvertantly dislodged the rubber cap from the extractor tube during an oil change. I wasn't using that tube to extract oil, but using the dipstick tube. The first I knew about it was a pool of oil in the bilge!
IMHO that cap is not a good engineering practice. Particularly as there is no mention of it in the "Operator's Manual".
 
According to the manual (available to downlaod here: http://www.maritimsd.no/Customers/msm/documents/Dokumentasjon Volvo/D1.pdf ) you can use either 20/50 or 15/40. Given that you can get 15/40 almost as cheap as chip fat, I'd go for that one.

The suck out tube should be close to the dipstick pipe, but lower down and closer to the engine block. As said above, do make sure to replace the cover properly; failure = a right mess to clean up!
 
D1 30 Oil

I use Asda 15/40 as already mentioned. Cheap as chips too. Change every 100hrs or less.
Very speedy pump out using the sump drain rubber bung (below oil filter). yours probally still painted over!
 
Well......... I've change my oil a few times now, and never knew a thing about this rubber cap. I think I'll just continue to use the dipstick tube to suck the old oil out, but will certainly check on the existence of the rubber cap to be sure it's secure and in good order.
I use Volvo branded oil from Keypart as they offer free delivery at regular intervals, but any 15/40 oil with the same spec would do the same job.
CJ
 
never a truer word Mike, not good? irresponsible is what I would call it. Volvo designers must have rocks for brains to design in vulnerability. Which bit of avoidable catastrophic single point of failure don't they understand?

The bit that says you should not go to Perkins in Japan and get them to sell you some of their industrial engines to marinize and then pretend you made them. I do agree though that when they were doing the marinization as well as spraying some paint and connecting some electrics they could have put a screw in plug in the filler in place of the rubber plug, or even better extended the pipe upwards to where you could get at it, the fact that they advise changing the plug indicates they were bright enough to recognize the potential problem but too lazy to do a modification.
 
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