Cyclades islands

sailaboutvic

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Cyclades islands

We just about coming to an end of a tour of some of the Cyclades island , it been many years since the last time we visit them , and what a changes , some good and some not so .
Most of the fishing harbour that we visit are now mini Marinas , the charges so far are not that hight five or six Euros for an 12 mts boat without power and water which is extra , usually around five Euros ( April , May ) althoughI one did ask 16 Euros and another 25 I think he could tell by my look he wasn't going to get it , but I can see in time these charges will be a lot hight one guy wanted and extra 2 Euros per person for the use of the shower , we heard people complaining there wasn't any hot water .

Naxos outer harbour behind the NE wall was a good anchorage , now we told it a archeological site And you can't anchor , just a few hundred mts ferries roar in and out two or more an hour dropping their anchor and churning the sea bed , even all the chart and Pilot book show you that's it an anchorages , but you are now directed to the Marina , on the out side of the old fisherman quay where we use to go stern onto is now a no go area you are turned away by the PP .

Ios what a lovely island or should I say was , the beach where young holiday back packer use to lay there sleeping bag for the night , we left the yacht and slept there one night , is now coved in deck chairs and sun shade , the love quite Chora on the top now has clubs , bars and Irish pubs in almost every corner you turn in to , one sign saying free entry before 3am , thanks god the holiday trade haven't arrived yet , a Nescafé Will set you back four euros and a Greek coffee three ,
Mooring onto the harbour at your own risk , plenty of fenders are needed and check you mast with the next boat , when the ferries roar in damage can quite easier be done to top side and Mast , has fenders pop out and mast swing Wildly , lucky there some good anchorage around the island to avoid the mayhem of the harbour .

It not all doom and gloom , the Clift on Nisos Thira are well worth seeing , so many different colour and sheer drop into the sea , they just amazing .

Kea , it water front which come to life has the ferry arrive then turn back into a sleepily but lived in town , men playing backgammon , children's playing in the street and the women no doubt talking about the lazy men who play backgammon all day and drink coffee , I guess once the charter season get going it will be a different story .
the back track walk up to Chora has to be a must ,passing the big pussy cat craved into the Rock on the way up , it looked more like a sea lion to me , but what do I know , its winding street and no traffics it feels like you gone back hundreds of years , friendly local people when you see them .

Kithnos is another place well worth a visit if only for it hot water springs , and they are hot right up to where the meet the sea . The harbour master there charge us for one night then didn't bother us again , other then a chat . A few Small restaurant set back around the harbour , the walk up to the Chora is a good place to see the view .
Last but not less is Nisos Anafi , where we bobbing on anchor in a gently breezes watching the sun slowly set . I guess this is one place that won't change much , well off the bearing track for charter boats small sleepy fishing villages just one restaurant on the quay next to the ferry port and a small shop , if you feeling fit a one and a half K walk to the town on the top of the hill , I said fit because it all up hill , I shall leave that for another day .
The good news is there still plenty of bays and coves to anchor in some with fine sand where you can spend quiet night gently swaying back and fro in paradise .

So why have I writing this , the simple answer is to try and show some of new comes to Greece and there are quite a few heading this way , that the Greek islands don't start at corfu and end at Celphalonia the Ionian is a very small part of Greece and in my view not the best part . Enjoy it while you can ,

Next stop . The Dodecanese ... Follow by Turkey .
 

Palarran

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This years sailing will be back to the Cyclades. This is the first time I've chosen to return to an area instead of exploring something totally new. Can't wait!!

My favorites were Amorgos and the Small Cyclades, and also Naousa. Ios had little charm for my taste. The best feature of the Cyclades was the meltemi with nice strong sailing winds. We left Amorgos with 40 knots from NE and headed to Koufonisia with triple reefed main and hankie of a jib. Speed was 10 to 12 knots - what a gas.

This year we will start in Milos and work our way around to Astipalia before heading to Marmaris. Maybe I'll see you around Vic.IMG_2887.jpgIMG_2633.jpg
 

sailaboutvic

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This years sailing will be back to the Cyclades. This is the first time I've chosen to return to an area instead of exploring something totally new. Can't wait!!

My favorites were Amorgos and the Small Cyclades, and also Naousa. Ios had little charm for my taste. The best feature of the Cyclades was the meltemi with nice strong sailing winds. We left Amorgos with 40 knots from NE and headed to Koufonisia with triple reefed main and hankie of a jib. Speed was 10 to 12 knots - what a gas.

This year we will start in Milos and work our way around to Astipalia before heading to Marmaris. Maybe I'll see you around Vic.View attachment 51499View attachment 51500
Antipalia is where we just pulling into an hour a go after a very fast sail from Anifi , hairy at time but still a very good sail .
Where did you check in Turkey ? Did you need a agent , I know your not an EU boat so it maybe different for you , but any ideas would be great , I don't really want to spend good money on a agent unless I have to , it been 15 years now last time we entered Turkey , really looking forward to it .
 

sailaboutvic

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Thanks Vic, lovely report. How long did you spend getting there (assuming you started from the Ionian)?

Long story , but we was heading for crete first but after a night mare of a night we decided crete will have to wait and run before a non forecaster storm what Mr Murthy through would be funny. To throwing at us .
Your question ,how long ? This time is was a quick trip has we seen all the pelopennisos over the years last time visit was for two months end of sept ,oct and first part of Nov 2014 , so from port Kioni on Ithace only six stops this time , Zakinthos , Pilos , Dhiakofti on Kithera , has I said we was on our way to crete , Monemvasia Spetsai , Idrha then Kea which was our first Cyclades island . Luckley the southerly where blowing so we managed to get a free ride on there back .
We hoping if all wells to do the islands we missed on the way back in Oct on the way to sicily .
These are lovely islands well worth a visit even if I had a bit of a moan about the charges we found , remember there hundred of anchorage all free , just keep out of the way of the Meltemi around July , August althought it feels like they started early after to today sail .
 
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Palarran

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We cleared in at Marmaris and used an agent. It was the best 50 euro I've spent next to the 50 euro in Rhodes for an agent. But you have a lot more time then we do for cruising so maybe you can do it yourself. I'm just burned out after the Caribbean of dealing with port police and customs officials.

Post some photo's of Astipalia. We stopped there for the night last year but will spend around 3 days this year.
 

sailaboutvic

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Palarran;5287031) Post some photo's of Astipalia. We stopped there for the night last year but will spend around 3 days this year.[/QUOTE said:
Thanks for the info we Tho maybe Datca ,
After a few sundowners and a good shower I see what I can do about photo s I have the co skipper has she the one with her if her on the button , ( in more ways then one ) :)
 

Tony Cross

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Long story , but we was heading for crete first but after a night mare of a night we decided crete will have to wait and run before a non forecaster storm what Mr Murthy through would be funny. To throwing at us .
Your question ,how long ? This time is was a quick trip has we seen all the pelopennisos over the years last time visit was for two months end of sept ,oct and first part of Nov 2014 , so from port Kioni on Ithace only six stops this time , Zakinthos , Pilos , Dhiakofti on Kithera , has I said we was on our way to crete , Monemvasia Spetsai , Idrha then Kea which was our first Cyclades island . Luckley the southerly where blowing so we managed to get a free ride on there back .
We hoping if all wells to do the islands we missed on the way back in Oct on the way to sicily .
These are lovely islands well worth a visit even if I had a bit of a moan about the charges we found , remember there hundred of anchorage all free , just keep out of the way of the Meltemi around July , August althought it feels like they started early after to today sail .

I'll put the beers back in the fridge then shall I? :)
 

truscott

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The only issue with clearing in and out of Marmaris, is having to go alongside the cruise liner dock. There is a smaller yacht friendly dock that looks ideal, but they wave you away and get quite tetchy if you head for it. Instead you have to lie up against some gigantic tractor tires and bounce around for the half hour or so it takes, and that's if they don't decide to parade you one at a time to the passport officer! We loved using Bozburun in the past, but that seems to still be off the list this year. Last year after clearing out at Marmaris, we chose to clear in at Datca. Was a breeze. Used the agent just behind the "Yacht Club" bar and right above the little supermarket that is on the quay. Very quick. Cost was 110 TRY if I recall correctly (Marmaris agent from Yat Marina was 80 EUR as a comparison.) .

Loved the pics of Astipalia. We stopped in en-route from Ios to Nisiros. Loved it, and enjoyed the little restaurant that is right on the beach in the pic. We'll be back for a longer explore this year.

Cheers, PT
 

Palarran

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Thanks for the photo's Vic. That really is the postcard perfect example of the old Cyclades isn't it. Can't wait to get there this year myself. Has anyone ever been to the bay on the north side of the island. Since we are coming from Amorgos it would be an easy stop if worth visiting.

PT, you are right about the big tires at customs in Marmaris. What a pain in the rear. We also couldn't use the small dock as we are a big boat and someone was there already. What we did do is tie up to a tug boat that was next to the dock - no problems, but I had an agent on shore who was talking to everyone in order to get us any spot to speak of.
 

sailaboutvic

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There or is Oreos Vathi on the north , it like a enclose lake which you can get into but at one spot depth can be as low as 2 mts or just over , but I should think you be ok being a cat ,there a small village , but that's it . there a few other spot as long as the wind isn't coming from the north
 

marina95

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We had a crack at getting to Milos last year - crossed from Dhokos to Serifos and then got wind bound Livadi. When I say wind-bound, I mean wind-bound which sent us all slightly bonkers. I wrote a little blog about the whole thing called The Accidental Odyssey which evolved into a major piss-take of other yachtsmen's misfortunes in getting tied up on the quay. Those of a sensitive nature might want to pass this by ;-) https://medium.com/the-accidental-odyssey-and-other-tales
 

grafozz

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We had a crack at getting to Milos last year - crossed from Dhokos to Serifos and then got wind bound Livadi. When I say wind-bound, I mean wind-bound which sent us all slightly bonkers. I wrote a little blog about the whole thing called The Accidental Odyssey which evolved into a major piss-take of other yachtsmen's misfortunes in getting tied up on the quay. Those of a sensitive nature might want to pass this by ;-) https://medium.com/the-accidental-odyssey-and-other-tales

Brilliant ! spirits lifted whilst reading with a leg in plaster ! thank you
 

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