Croak
Well-Known Member
I want to cut some 6mm perspex for windows with a jigsaw...any tips.
Cutting Perspex
- Thread starter Croak
- Start date
Captain Coochie
Well-Known Member
Cut it at the lowest speed or it will melt back together again after the cut . Take it slow and support both the piece you want and the off cut with some off cuts of timber so it doesnt bend and crack . Good luck .
Swagman
Well-Known Member
Yo - all the above is right and if the perspex is not already covered both sides with a protective film - consider adding one (masking tape should do).
You'll find it much easier than you think - we've cut perhaps 20 round's to create a couple of drink glass racks - and slowly does it can give really accurate results.
Cheers
JOHN
You'll find it much easier than you think - we've cut perhaps 20 round's to create a couple of drink glass racks - and slowly does it can give really accurate results.
Cheers
JOHN
DavidGrieves
Well-Known Member
Hi
Stick masking tape on the cut line, helps stop chips and makes it easier to see your line.
Use a fine blade, a metal cutting blade will work OK.
Use a jigsaw with variable speed and start with a slow speed, too fast and the cut will produce too much heat and weld the perspex together again.
If your jig saw has a "pendulum action" set it to 0
Support the perspex well whilst cutting, esp when at the end of the cut.
Dave
Stick masking tape on the cut line, helps stop chips and makes it easier to see your line.
Use a fine blade, a metal cutting blade will work OK.
Use a jigsaw with variable speed and start with a slow speed, too fast and the cut will produce too much heat and weld the perspex together again.
If your jig saw has a "pendulum action" set it to 0
Support the perspex well whilst cutting, esp when at the end of the cut.
Dave
pvb
Well-Known Member
And another idea...
Another trick is to cut the perspex on a 2" thick piece of polystyrene foam insulation. This will help to support the perspex and stop it vibrating - it's usually the vibration which cracks it. Use a fine jigsaw blade, and let it cut gently at its own pace.
Another trick is to cut the perspex on a 2" thick piece of polystyrene foam insulation. This will help to support the perspex and stop it vibrating - it's usually the vibration which cracks it. Use a fine jigsaw blade, and let it cut gently at its own pace.
Croak
Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot, I'll go and have a go.
BlueChip
Well-Known Member
Take it to a local sign maker, he will probably cut it for you for the cost of a couple of pints
tcm
...
yep this is the best advice imho - these things look very obvious if a bit wobbly and badly cut
Captain Coochie
Well-Known Member
Get someone else to do it ? I thought part of the hobby was doing it yourself . But then i did get someone else to do mine /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif In my defence there was templating and an offcut of shatterproof perspex involved rather than buying a whole sheet and if i look at perspex it cracks .
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifBy the way if the blade starts to melt the perspex dont just look at it and wonder what to do cause it will take you ages to get it out again /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif( edited after the next post ) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifBy the way if the blade starts to melt the perspex dont just look at it and wonder what to do cause it will take you ages to get it out again /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif( edited after the next post ) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Croak
Well-Known Member
Yep, I think I have to agree with the last bits of advice. Just spent 3 hours and now I've got two windows.
Bit of advice for anyone trying it:-
If the pespex starts to melt, Don't just look at the jigsaw and wonder what to do next. The blade will fuse into the perspex as it sets again and it is great fun trying to get it back out.
Resorted to the hand saw in the end.
Saved a trip to the gym, if I was into that sort of thing.
Bit of advice for anyone trying it:-
If the pespex starts to melt, Don't just look at the jigsaw and wonder what to do next. The blade will fuse into the perspex as it sets again and it is great fun trying to get it back out.
Resorted to the hand saw in the end.
Saved a trip to the gym, if I was into that sort of thing.
Avocet
Well-Known Member
Keep spraying loads of WD40 on it (or some thin aerosol oil) to act as a coolant/ lubricant.
Spuddy
Well-Known Member
Brown parcel tape seems to work better - less prone to fusing together. Doesn't make sense to me how it dissipates heat when it's got to be an insulator but it works
misterg
Well-Known Member
Contrary to others, I've found that the fine, metal cutting blades cause problems (mainly with over-heating), and I've had the best results using horribly coarse and spikey blades meant for "tidy" wood cutting. No problem with melting, fast cut & reasonable finish. If you have got the old windows, and access to a router, cut the new ones roughly to size, clamp the old and new together and use a flush-trimming bit in the router to cut to the exact size without effort, and with a fantastic edge finish. If your windows are surface mounted then another quick whizz around with a chamfer bit will make them look really professional.
On a slightly different point, take GREAT care if you have to drill any holes in them - use a drill press if at all possible, and probably best not to use a new drill bit - they are too sharp & tend to pull themselves into the sheet and crack it. (Of course, too blunt will melt the plastic & crack it).
Again, advice you didn't ask for /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif but if you need to bed the windows on something, consider neoprene tape rather than sealant. Easy to get neat, clean & no leaks (2 years so far...)
Andy
On a slightly different point, take GREAT care if you have to drill any holes in them - use a drill press if at all possible, and probably best not to use a new drill bit - they are too sharp & tend to pull themselves into the sheet and crack it. (Of course, too blunt will melt the plastic & crack it).
Again, advice you didn't ask for /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif but if you need to bed the windows on something, consider neoprene tape rather than sealant. Easy to get neat, clean & no leaks (2 years so far...)
Andy
Blueboatman
Well-Known Member
Any good at woodwork?
With a shallow angle block plane you can plane Perspex and clean it up quite nicely.The blade needs to be kept sharp on a stone.
If your windows are set into an alloy frame of course you won't need to..
but next time with your new found expertise,when you choose to make a new instrument panel...Finish off the edges and bevels with plane and wet and dry sandpaper wrapped on a wooden block,and Robert's your fathers brother,neat straight edges.
With a shallow angle block plane you can plane Perspex and clean it up quite nicely.The blade needs to be kept sharp on a stone.
If your windows are set into an alloy frame of course you won't need to..
but next time with your new found expertise,when you choose to make a new instrument panel...Finish off the edges and bevels with plane and wet and dry sandpaper wrapped on a wooden block,and Robert's your fathers brother,neat straight edges.
richardandtracy
Well-Known Member
I agree with most comments above.
Make sure there is no pendulum action otherwise you will crack it.
Also don't push the saw too fast - that can cause cracks too. Go slowly.
Further tip for thin acrylic (say 2 or 3mm).. sandwich between cheap plywood to give support.
Final tip. Don't burn the waste on an open fire. The fumes are poisonous. I burnt some on our fire at home on a day when we had a chimney downdraft problem. It provoked a nasty asthma attack in my wife.
Regards
Richard.
Make sure there is no pendulum action otherwise you will crack it.
Also don't push the saw too fast - that can cause cracks too. Go slowly.
Further tip for thin acrylic (say 2 or 3mm).. sandwich between cheap plywood to give support.
Final tip. Don't burn the waste on an open fire. The fumes are poisonous. I burnt some on our fire at home on a day when we had a chimney downdraft problem. It provoked a nasty asthma attack in my wife.
Regards
Richard.
tross
Well-Known Member
Use paraffin as a coolant and a lubricator .
richardandtracy
Well-Known Member
Good idea. But do it dry if doing the cutting over your living room carpet.. The boss tends to get upset otherwise.
Regards
Richard.
Regards
Richard.
Egbod
Well-Known Member
When I cut Perspex (Acrylic) for my windows I marked the cut line with a marker pen and then covered the line with sellotape. You can see through this and the glue acts as a lubricant with no mess. (My local sign writer just uses cheap engine oil.) I also used the power jigsaw blades recommended by Bosch- T119B (although these have basic for Wood printed on them). They cut very well and I then filed some parts of the edges. I used a file with small teeth with the file laying at 90 degrees to the edge and the file being moved to and fro along the edge (draw filing). You can get a good shiny finish with lots of rubbing with a cloth with metal polish on it. For a quicker finish use a micro gas torch with a small flame to carefully go along the edge. Please practice on the off-cuts first. The correct flame contact and speed of movement are quickly learnt.