Cutting 10mm acrylic sheet with a jigsaw

FullCircle

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Use a new blade of about 8-12 teeth per inch with a wavy set, with a feed rate of about 8ft/minute. You may get some slight chipping of the edge depending on the grade of acrylic you are cutting.

You can use a blade with more teeth per inch, but you may get some melting at the cut face.

Try it first on a piece of offcut.
 

davidrainsbury

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One of the main problems with cutting acrylic with a jig saw is that the chips weld together in the cut behind the blade. Use a slow cutting speed and clear the cut often to prevent buildup of acrylic dust.
 

Fr J Hackett

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As said befor use the finest blade you can with the slowest feed rate and cutting rate (dont force things) lubricate with parafin or water, if it chips you can plane it with a sharp bladed smoothing plane and then polish the edge with cutting compound, I always leave enough material to plane the edge up.
 

oldsaltoz

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You may end up with smaller areas after planing to get the edges straight especially with a hack saw.

Have had very good results with a router and straight edge, this has the advantage of adding the bevelled edge as you go.

Slow speed, don't push too much and only use very sharp bits.

Hope this helps.
 

scarlett

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Thirty years ago, before the days of variable speed drills etc. you could buy a gadget [Variable Speed Controller] to control mains drills for about fiver. I did and have used it with a jig saw to cut acrylic and other sheet plastic, without a problem. A very useful gadget if you can find one, that gets used about once a year on DIY jobs.
 
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A metal-cutting will work well enough, or a fine wood blade without any set.
Lubrication of the blade is essential to prevent the friction melting the acrylic onto the blade. A good dodge is to stick a couple of layers of brown (polypropylene) parcel tape along both sides of the cut line. The PP melts at a lower temp than the acrylic and gets carried into the cut by the saw blade here it acts a lube. Sounds unlikely, but it works - also stops the baseplate of the jigsaw from scratching the acrylic.

Best method of all would be to cut oversize, then make a 1:1 template from 9mm mdf or similar, stick this to the acrylic and trim to final size with a bearing-guided router cutter run at low speed. Complete accuracy and excellent surface finish.
 

ianabc

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I understand from a plastic shop, that flame edged acrylic is best accomplished with hydrogen fuel, possibly because of less blackening of the material?

I wonder if anyone has used a propane torch with success?

If so how black or clear was the edge?.
 

robind

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Use a router ( make a pattern in hardboard) for less chipping and plane edges with a "Block plane" as it has a lower angle blade (needed for plastics and better than a smoothing plane)
 
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