cutlass bearing removal

10oxometer

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Hi All, does anyone know where I can hire an extractor for removing a cutlass bearing from a `p` braket with the prop shaft still in position. I have seen one on the American market but rather pricey to buy.
 
Cheers for the reply chaps, the earlier thread seems to have the propshaft removed before extraction. I would like to remove the bearing with the shaft still in place as i`ts an absolute nightmare of a job to disconnect the little varmit.
 
This is the photo of the parts of the extractor that I made. A bit over engineered perhaps, but what you need are two flat plates as shown and a piece of steel pipe split down the middle. Not shown are the two lengths of 10mm studding used to apply the reqiured force. The ring allows the same device to push the new tight fitting bearing into place.

tn_CutlassBearingTool007.jpg
 
Similar bit of kit in action. Made from a Triumph spitfire spring compressor and other junk.

Available to borrow - Cambridgeshire area, close to A1.
The blue thing is a section of scaffold pole split in half. It is blue due to class 9B covering it in "Engineers blue" prior to chain drilling to speed up the cutting in half process.

The cable ties stop the whole thing springing apart. The two long screws squeeze the scaffold pole in and the bearing out. It look longer to make than use!! But 9B(Engineering) are not known for their speed!!


Cutless replacement by Silver Gem
 
Similar bit of kit in action. Made from a Triumph spitfire spring compressor and other junk.

Available to borrow - Cambridgeshire area, close to A1.
The blue thing is a section of scaffold pole split in half. It is blue due to class 9B covering it in "Engineers blue" prior to chain drilling to speed up the cutting in half process.

The cable ties stop the whole thing springing apart. The two long screws squeeze the scaffold pole in and the bearing out. It look longer to make than use!! But 9B(Engineering) are not known for their speed!!

Same device depicted only in the second phase: insertion of the cutless. Sorry but I did not take pictures of the first phase.
Few differences with respect to the previous examples:
1) instead of a spring compressor, parts of a ball bearing external-extractor device.
2) two s/s hose clamps instead of the cable ties for fixing the two split half tubes (not shown).
3) oversize nuts on the long threaded shafts.

Very clean job in a couple of hours (excluding the preparation of the device).

Daniel
 
P brackets are very easy. Cut same or slightly smaller length of pipe lengthways. Put one half onto the shaft, butt up to the end of cutlass and tap out ( having removed grubscrews) - takes less than 5 mins.


Brian
 
Similar bit of kit in action. Made from a Triumph spitfire spring compressor and other junk.

Available to borrow - Cambridgeshire area, close to A1.
The blue thing is a section of scaffold pole split in half. It is blue due to class 9B covering it in "Engineers blue" prior to chain drilling to speed up the cutting in half process.

The cable ties stop the whole thing springing apart. The two long screws squeeze the scaffold pole in and the bearing out. It look longer to make than use!! But 9B(Engineering) are not known for their speed!!


Cutless replacement by Silver Gem

Easier and quicker than cable ties, just join the two halves with a strip of duct tape.
 
P brackets are very easy. Cut same or slightly smaller length of pipe lengthways. Put one half onto the shaft, butt up to the end of cutlass and tap out ( having removed grubscrews) - takes less than 5 mins.


Brian
Sorry for my English but if by "tapping out" you mean using anything similar to a hammer, then my comment is "no, don't do it".

Whacking a P-bracket applying stresses to its joint with the hull is strongly discouraged.
I am always very reluctant in using a hammer for fixing something in a boat; in this case at least for the critical alignment of the P-bracket.

Daniel
 
I'd agree with Daniel, don't tap/hammer in or out. P brackets are not designed for these loads and if made of bronze they could be bent out of true, you then have a bearing/bearing carrier not in alignment.

We use epoxy bedded clearance fit for our shaft bearings, to remove add some heat, the epoxy softens and they can be pushed out easily. With the shaft chocked you can also confirm carrier alignment as you should be able to spin the new bearing in the carrier on the shaft. Still quite tricky doing it with the shaft in place though.

We were thinking of getting a few strut pro systems to rent out when people change from rubber, so how much would you pay to hire an easy to use bearing remover? the whole set is $800.00 to buy.
HomePagePhoto2.jpg
 
$800 Shhheese!! Mine cost nothing... OK I had the spring compressor thing in the back of the garage, but they are only 50 quid new!!!!

Any one interested? I could have a dozen ready by the end of the week, shall we say $250 each??? I'll even custom fit them to your exact shaft diameter and hand deliver them, gift wrapped if you wish!!!
 
$800 Shhheese!! Mine cost nothing... OK I had the spring compressor thing in the back of the garage, but they are only 50 quid new!!!!

Any one interested? I could have a dozen ready by the end of the week, shall we say $250 each??? I'll even custom fit them to your exact shaft diameter and hand deliver them, gift wrapped if you wish!!!

That is the engineers complete set for all shaft and bearing sizes from 3/4" to 3", 11 different horse shoe plates and collets to fit all sizes (a total of 33 different combinations of shaft and carrier size). A single set retails for $395.

Yours did cost you your time and a spring compressor, just depends how much your time is worth or what you can charge for your time doing something else.

Some items can command a high value if they offer an easy, effective and quick solution.

We're not selling them but you can find them here if anyone is interested
http://www.strutpro.com/order.html
 
Dunno, i left such an important bit of kit to the boat yard. All in 190 quid. Whats the point in messing around when you can just work an hour extra to offset the cost.
 
Thanks everyone for the constructive replys in particular Norman and alpha`s pictures.
I feel reasonably confident now with the help from an engineering friend we can replicate a simular tool for doing the job. thank goodness I haven`t got to climb in the locker with my feet higher than my head disconnecting a propshaft.
 
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