Curving teak trim?

N

Neil

Well-Known Member
Joined
6 Apr 2004
Messages
7,518
Location
Ireland
Visit site
The teak trimming strip that runs across the stern of my Sadler 25 is much the worse for wear. If I could source some teak, and if I could route the correct profile, I imagine a length of plastic pipe connected to a wallpaper steam stripper would give it enough plasticity to get the curve (in two planes, I think). However, there are cut-outs to accommodate fittings etc.....which comes first? the cutouts or the bends? It's thin enough; would I need to steam it?
 
Neil said:
The teak trimming strip that runs across the stern of my Sadler 25 is much the worse for wear. If I could source some teak, and if I could route the correct profile, I imagine a length of plastic pipe connected to a wallpaper steam stripper would give it enough plasticity to get the curve (in two planes, I think). However, there are cut-outs to accommodate fittings etc.....which comes first? the cutouts or the bends? It's thin enough; would I need to steam it?
Click to expand...

I think you will find it has a compound curve which if I am not mistaken is made up from two pieces.
 
Curves 1st cuts second. On a thin piece you can get quite a curve on one plane dry but not on two planes. Steamed in the way you describe you can achieve anything. You will need a jig and a lot of clamps if not moulding it in situ. If you make the cuts first they will never end up in the right place.
 
once steamed, I was thinking of duct taping it in position, but it would only be approximate, since without the cutouts, I couldn't tape it to the exact position.
 
I suppose that once you've routed it to the finished profile, you'll discover how flexible it is and whether it needs steaming. I'd advise you to make it longer than required - ideally long enough that you can tie the ends or hang weights form them to maintain the position until it's fastened into place. If you can push it into place by hand it won't need steaming - sounds obvious I know, but no matter how tricky it is to push it into place, after a bit of rain, sunshine and time it would stay that shape if you unscrew it. Steaming just accelerates the process. As you'll need to make cut-outs before fitting remember it will weaken the section either risking breakage should it require too much force or if steamed can bend tighter at the cut-out. Like most jobs on a boat it's "suck it and see".

Rob
 
rob2 said:
As you'll need to make cut-outs before fitting remember it will weaken the section either risking breakage should it require too much force or if steamed can bend tighter at the cut-out. Like most jobs on a boat it's "suck it and see".

Rob
Click to expand...

I was expecting to steam it and tape it in position and let it cool/harden to the curve and then make the cut-outs.

I can't find a source of teak locally, but I have some reclaimed mahogany that might serve. I think I'll cut off the broken bit at the end to get the size/profile and take it from there. It's screwed and plugged so I should be able get the old one off without damaging the gelcoat. How long in the steamer?
 
What thickness is the strip? If it's thick enough to need steaming, your plan to tape hot wood (too hot to hold with bare hands) onto the back of your boat is likely to be a non-starter. You need to get steamed timber to shape quickly and it can require a lot of force. (I may not be a boatwright, but I've done a lot of steaming - rebuilding a boat and making chairs.)

Steam for 1 hour per inch of thickness.
 
Have another good look at the teak trim on the transom. I'm sure you'll find its either cut from the solid or laminated.
As far as I know, nobody steams teak, just doesn't work, always springs back.

Plank
 
Do you need to steam it?
Unless yours is constructed differently to mine, the piece of teak trim is pretty thing. I'd have thought you'll achieve the curve through the woods natural flex?

Its possibly I'm misremembering it, but isn't the curve only in the vertical plane?
 
Yes, it's thin enough, which was why I posed the question of whether it needed to be steamed. I can't be certain, but I have a feeling it's curved in two planes; I'll double check tomorrow
 
Neil said:
I was expecting to steam it and tape it in position and let it cool/harden to the curve and then make the cut-outs.

I can't find a source of teak locally, but I have some reclaimed mahogany that might serve. I think I'll cut off the broken bit at the end to get the size/profile and take it from there. It's screwed and plugged so I should be able get the old one off without damaging the gelcoat. How long in the steamer?
Click to expand...

steamer is a scaffold pole with the blank screw ends, One end drilled for a vent hole the other drilled and tapped to take a hose fitting.
A good wall paper steamer will suffice but make sure you leave it in there to steam.
When removing from the steamer the wood has to be really pliable.

good luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top