Fasten the tack of the sail out side forestay, I use the bow roller to lead the strop to a bow cleat.Some folks take it back to the cockpit.Usually I only use one sheet which is led on the lee side through a snatch block on the quarter then forward to a winch. The halyard should be reeved through a swivel block on the crane forward of the mast.Do not use the genoa halyard, that sheave will not take the loads that occur when the chute swings about. With wind on the quarter, hoist the sail in the lee of the main,with the sheet quite slack. To drop the sail, go off downwind let the sheet fly and the sail will stream out forward.A snuffer assists raising and lowering .The pole length if used needs to be 1.25 to 1.5J. Have fun!
Getting the sail down again is more daunting than getting it up! An alternative method of lowering is to let the tack fly and pull the sail in with the lazy sheet underneath the mainsail, spinnaker style. As Peasea says, some people swear by a snuffer.
The text-book method of gybing is to let the sail fly right forward and then pull in from the other side like a windsurf sail, but I've found this often results in a mighty tangle. I prefer to 'post' the clew through the gap between the luff (which should not be too taut by the way) and the forestay. Once the clew is handed through, the rest of the sail will follow readily enough.
Downwind, you will normally goosewing, with the chute poled out. When broad reaching, it may help to pole the cruising chute on the leeward side, if it will not settle down. It is of course always poled from the clew, not from the tack as is a spinnaker. A pole should not be necessary for reaching.
I use a snuffer on my Centaur, brilliant. I find it easier to use 1 sheet, to gybe snuff the chute, uncleat the sheet & take it around to the opposite cleat (around the outside of all stays etc)& then let the chute fly. Quicker than it sounds and avoids taangles!