Cruising in the Aegean

[Hooligan]

Hi. I know a little early with this season in the Med largely over but I am planning next year’s cruise already! The plan having cruised the length of the Ionian over the past 3 years is to venture into the Aegean and specifically focus on the Dodecanese and the Cyclades. This would be August/September and I am of course aware of the tribulations of the Meltemi. I would be very grateful to hear people’s experiences re this, thoughts, recommendations specifically things NOT to do, things to do, great anchorages, best islands etc etc. Initial thoughts are to avoid Mykonos and nearby more northerly islands due to the wind and expense (Mykonos) so focus at present on Paros, Naxos, Sikanos and also explore the Dodecanese. All advice gratefully received. We rarely go to port - one night in 6 weeks this year, so happy to be on hook but also happy to tie back if that is best too. Many thanks in advance.

 

[Irish Rover]

Avoiding Mykonos is a wise move. I spent a couple of nights in Andros last year but I had to bypass Tinos to make a randevu in Syros. Plenty of good anchorages on all 3 islands as there also are on Kythnos, Seriphos, Sifnos, paros and Naxos - avoid the kite surfers. Further south I'd personally give Kos and Rhodes a miss but, in any event, you'll need a couple of years to visit all the islands. My usual strategy would be to stick to a broad north/south then south/north route or vice versa and avoid long west/east or east/west legs. I also tend to avoid the islands with international airports. Navily is a great resource for this area.

 

[PowerYachtBlog]

The Aegean Summer starts early around April and is usually over by the end of July, as all that month the Meltemi hauls really non stop upwards of force 6. April it is already on the get go.

I remember before the advent of the internet I used to stay hearing the Italian weather radio when cruising in August and out of ten days, the Aegean used to be hauling like force 6 to 7 every day.

 

[Irish Rover]

The Aegean Summer starts early around April and is usually over by the end of July, as all that month the Meltemi hauls really non stop upwards of force 6. April it is already on the get go.

I remember before the advent of the internet I used to stay hearing the Italian weather radio when cruising in August and out of ten days, the Aegean used to be hauling like force 6 to 7 every day.

July and August are definitely the two windier months but, that said, it's definitely not a no-go period. As long as you're not on a tight schedule, and can afford to take shelter for a few days, during heavy blows then you'll get plenty of good cruising during July/August. There are plenty of sheltered bays in every area. Also the meltemi never seemed to blow as hard or consistently in the easter Aegean especially along the Turkish coast.

 

[frnz65]

Hi. I know a little early with this season in the Med largely over but I am planning next year’s cruise already! The plan having cruised the length of the Ionian over the past 3 years is to venture into the Aegean and specifically focus on the Dodecanese and the Cyclades. This would be August/September and I am of course aware of the tribulations of the Meltemi. I would be very grateful to hear people’s experiences re this, thoughts, recommendations specifically things NOT to do, things to do, great anchorages, best islands etc etc. Initial thoughts are to avoid Mykonos and nearby more northerly islands due to the wind and expense (Mykonos) so focus at present on Paros, Naxos, Sikanos and also explore the Dodecanese. All advice gratefully received. We rarely go to port - one night in 6 weeks this year, so happy to be on hook but also happy to tie back if that is best too. Many thanks in advance.

Hello Hooligan, I just joined the forum. From where you will start your trip? Last June I sailed my boat from Sicily to Lesvos, but it was June, so the Meltemi was just starting and it wasn't too bad. Anyway I can share my experience on that route if useful.

 

[Hooligan]

Hi. That would be fantastic. Basically my plan is to take the boat down in June through Corinth and across via Kythnos, Paros, Naxos etc and leave in Gocek. Then back in beg August, do the Dodecanese for a couple of three weeks then bring back to Lefkas in early Sept. The Ionian as you know is fairly benign so I am trying to get my head around dealing with the Meltemi. 35/40 knots at anchor on the Ionian is both unheard of and feels like a disaster. Reading re the Cyclades and Dodecanese it seems normal!! Any thoughts re bays, dealing with the winds etc would be gratefully received.

 

[Irish Rover]

Hi. That would be fantastic. Basically my plan is to take the boat down in June through Corinth and across via Kythnos, Paros, Naxos etc and leave in Gocek. Then back in beg August, do the Dodecanese for a couple of three weeks then bring back to Lefkas in early Sept. The Ionian as you know is fairly benign so I am trying to get my head around dealing with the Meltemi. 35/40 knots at anchor on the Ionian is both unheard of and feels like a disaster. Reading re the Cyclades and Dodecanese it seems normal!! Any thoughts re bays, dealing with the winds etc would be gratefully received.

I find Navily very good for anchorages in the Aegean - not the tidiest of apps but usually very solid and recent information.

 

[vas]

that's a rather long trek Hooligan, better you than me
iirc took you a couple of years to do the Ionian and you want to do Cyclades, Dodekanese and Turkish coast in a season
relax, just get there, leave the boat somewhere in the Aegean and come back next year to do a bit more!

V.

 

[Hooligan]

that's a rather long trek Hooligan, better you than me
iirc took you a couple of years to do the Ionian and you want to do Cyclades, Dodekanese and Turkish coast in a season
relax, just get there, leave the boat somewhere in the Aegean and come back next year to do a bit more!

V.

Hi. Yes I actually totally agree. However I have found a good marina with an excellent team who I trust and who look after the boat (and me) and to be honest I find that priceless. That’s not to say I wouldn't find the same somewhere else in the Aegean for example but I just feel that for the moment it works. But point taken totally

 

[frnz65]

Which marina? Anyway I followed a different route, I did the Eubea canal to be able to cross the Aegean further north, which I did touching Skopelos and Skyros and ending up in Lesvos. Meltemi was starting, but we had it on a beam reach and it was actually fun. I concur with Irish Rover, Navily is useful, and I found very useful also the pilot books and charts of Eagle Ray. I didn't do Corinth, I went round the Peloponnese, which I loved (very few boats). I have been in the Dodecanese years ago with other boats with more Meltemi and sometimes we had to stop for a couple of days and found it quite annoying. Not sure if I can be of help but if you think so just PM me.

 

[Hooligan]

Which marina? Anyway I followed a different route, I did the Eubea canal to be able to cross the Aegean further north, which I did touching Skopelos and Skyros and ending up in Lesvos. Meltemi was starting, but we had it on a beam reach and it was actually fun. I concur with Irish Rover, Navily is useful, and I found very useful also the pilot books and charts of Eagle Ray. I didn't do Corinth, I went round the Peloponnese, which I loved (very few boats). I have been in the Dodecanese years ago with other boats with more Meltemi and sometimes we had to stop for a couple of days and found it quite annoying. Not sure if I can be of help but if you think so just PM me.

Hi. Tried to PM you but not allowed for some reason, perhaps because you are new here? Lefkas Marina is where I am now. S Peloponnese is fabulous I agree. Will go through Corinth this time as shorter.

 

[frnz65]

you can reach me at gratesk.pirk@gmail.com

 

[Hooligan]

Hi. Having spent the better part of 5 weeks moving around the Dodecanese,Cyclades and a bit of Turkey, some observations

1. It may not have been a typical Meltemi August but I found the conditions very manageable. We had one windy week but as we were heading South nothing that should scare anyone. I did a few years in the Balearics and dealt with far worse there. I used PresictWind as my main source of weather and it did not let me down.
2. Unlike the Bals there are bay after bay to choose from no matter what conditions are. All are close to each other once you have got to your destination ie Island
3. It is quiet. Even peak season we had bays to ourselves. We did not frequent marinas and hardly used town walls so perhaps this helped
4. The people are great and friendly and there is always someone around to help should things need looking at. Most every island is small to the point that everyone knows everyone. So ask for help and it usually arrives. That said we had hardly any issues and certainly no major ones unless losing the black water tank for a couple of days probably counted as bad for swmbo and the girls!
5. Bureaucracy: beyond belief. You have to sort your paperwork before coming to the Aegean. I got an Unlimited Transit Log which was a lifesaver. I also used agents when checking in and out of both Turkey and Greece. You can do it yourself in Greece if you want to waste a day but in Turkey it’s a must
6. We did - the bay of Gukova in Turkey (spectacular and remote), Patmos, Leros, Arki, Lipsi, Kalymnos, Kos, Tilos, Symi, Astapailea, Koufanisi, Paros, Kythnos. Now in Athens and heading to Poros and then back to base in Lefkas
7. I found the best mechanic I have ever had in Athens. Nothing was too much for him, super nice and I wish he were closer to Lefkas. His name is Dimitris and he can be reached in the Athens area on +30 694 818 5373 for anyone in need.

Overall as @vas said above, we did it way too quickly. I could spend years down here, probably will at some point. We did not even scratch the surface. It is clearly not for everyone. Far closer to camping and away from the glitz that many prefer but there are great restaurants to be found and we rented a car and explored some of the islands. Difficult to say my favourite places but I would probably be less keen on Kos which we used as a pickup point, for which it served good purpose.

I will post some pictures

 

[Hooligan]

View of Patmos port - we stayed here on the quay which was unusual but very good. We rented a car for a couple of days. Visit to Chora is a must



Bay of Gukova - very quiet and remote. We met a friend one night and Ali Barbar delivered bread and honey for us in the bay below

 

[Hooligan]

Some great sunsets and sunrises

 

[Hooligan]

Astapailia- very cool laid back island. We spent three days here as we deemed the onward trip to Paros a little too windy. Astapailia is the furthest most Eastern island in the Dodecanese. The Dodecanese were colonised by the Italians in 1912 and only given to Greece in 1947. Huge Italian influence can be seen throughout the islands. Indeed Lakka in Leros is very influenced by Italian Neo facist architecture.

 

[Irish Rover]

@Hooligan Great report. Super photos. I've bypassed Astypalaia without visiting. It’s definitely on my list now. Next time you're back in the Aegean I recommend a visit to Amorgos. Also the bays on the south of Despotiko.

 

[roa312]

Hi. Having spent the better part of 5 weeks moving around the Dodecanese,Cyclades and a bit of Turkey, some observations

Thanks for the write-up and for sharing the photos from your trip. It’s always interesting to read about others' experiences!

 

[Hooligan]

@Hooligan Great report. Super photos. I've bypassed Astypalaia without visiting. It’s definitely on my list now. Next time you're back in the Aegean I recommend a visit to Amorgos. Also the bays on the south of Despotiko.

Thanks. We bypassed Amorgos on way there and back for no reason other than time. So much to do here. We just tied back in a little place on edge of Poros which is fabulous. So many nooks and crannies as they say

 

[vas]

nice writeup and photos well done!
hope next year you do a similar trek and maybe go a bit northern Samos, Chios, Lesvos, on the NE part of the Aegean (and Turkiye is a v.short swim from them all ) If you can manage to get into September a bit, it's going to be even less crowded and much less windy.
fwiw, I've only been to a few of the isles you visited (and non by my boat ) they are simply too many!
Also into boat camping, only getting to port for provisions, and really dislike crowded places, so yes you'll be happy in most of them!

cheers

V.