cruising chute prodder

johnphilip

johnphilip

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Has anyone any useful experience of fitting a short pole to the bow, projecting say 18" from the bow to improve the set of a cruising chute?
Is it worth the effort, does it help the sail set, particularly on very broad reaches? I assume it does help keep the sail off the pulpit.
 
I fly mine from a strop that is about 6 inches above the pulpit so the chute doesn't touch it. Some peeps suggest a line back to the cockpit instead of a strop so that you fly it higher. Can't quite envisage what you are suggesting.
 
Yes, like a bowsprit, secured down to the stemhead fitting, but it must be removable or I wouldn't be able to open the anchor locker.
 
Must admit I've been considering something similar, have seen boats set up for this with a bobstay(?) fitting low down on the bow and a pole about 6 feet long, probably half of that beyond the bow. I'm thinking of using a bit of ali scaffold pole, so it will be cheap if it bends!
I think it depends what you want from the chute, and how much your boat will accelerate if you head up to fill the chute if your desired cts is more of a run.
We only set the chute on long legs with plenty of sea room, and normally expect to gybe to get where we're going. Our boat gains enough speed to make heading up very worthwhile.
Is your chute so big that it comes down inside the pulpit?
My other boat is an RS400, so I'm used to hauling the pole up to windward, this really makes a difference, enables heading significantly further downwind.
When I bought the chute, I had in mind getting adequate downwind progress in light air. I actually find its easier to use in 10kts true and above. I think a sprit might improve things in lighter winds.
Does anyone have a source for the design loads on the tack?
I did ask the sailmaker, he said 'lots'!
Boat is a Lightwave 395 btw.
Cheers,
Chris
 
As I see it a fixed (sliding) bowsprit of 18 inches might be usefull but if you could steer it up to windward as suggested it might set the sail even better when running square.
A short bow sprit will have a lot more support and less apparent load than a longer one. However have you considered staying the pole down and to the sides. This would make it easier to steer the pole up to windward.
So yes give it a go. olewill
 
Re: results of experiment on sigma 362

Spinny pole about 4 mtrs
Fixed block to downhaul
Lashed pole to anchor roller, used sail bag padding under inboard end and lashed inboard end to for'rd cleat
Block approx 1 mtr outboard
Pole set as bowsprit although 20 degs to port
Clew rigged through pole block, sheets as spinny via rear quarter
Wind 3, slight gusts to 4
pole deflected 5 degs
Boat speed 5/6 kn
Good result but we were very tired and emotional after a very good meal in Fowey the previous night
Will be making permenant fixing this winter, felt the improvement was worth further tweaking
Keith
 
Sailed a Southerly 35RS with such a mini bowsprit fitted where the second bow roller would normally be. The boat flew a gennaker on a flexible roller reefing system.

Compared with my cruising chute in a sock, the bowsprit struck me as the dogs danglies. Removable if you had a zealot at the marina, easily handled on a 2 person boat, flew well, kept clear or other rigging. If I were buying a new boat I would specify one.
 
Seldon do a 'bowsprit' which is purpose designed for a cruising chute.

I bought one earlier this year and its great. fitted easily and is retractable when in a marina. The tack strop goes down the centre of the tube and can be made off to the bow cleats at a length to suit conditions / point of sailing.

Stops all that grief with the pulpit when gybing.

My only issue is that forespar do some neat stanchion mounts which cost about £40 each (In the US they sell for less than half this !!!

Have fun
 
Selden do a kit which is complete to nmount a sliding bowsprit which is dismountable too. About 400 quid when I looked, depending on boat size of course.
 
http://www.seldenmast.com/frameset.cfm?id=5581
Gives some useful data.
As pointed out above, anchor locker access could be an issue.
Also, I'd like the downward force at the inboard end to go through the bulkhead, possibly using the pad-eye for the foreguy????
Also my harken furler is quite low down and the selden pole is quite large section. Not much space, and I want to be able to use a swinging mooring without too much de-rigging.
I'd like to put in a u-bolt for a waterstay/bobstay over the winter, any guidance about strength, I'd like to able to break the stay before tearing a lump out of the bow.
I begin to understand why the previous owner traded in for a J-120 instead!
Chris
 
To your question the answer is YES. I made and fitted one which is retractable from 150 mm alloy scafold pipe, 750mm lenght of square section in which the pipe would just slide and 4 bits of angle no longer than side of square. All that one has to do is drilling tapping and bolt to deck. Final fitment was on four thin hardwood pads and set at angle to the C/L so that the tip when extended is on the C/L. Two holes in pipe tapped 1- for the extend position 2- tthe other for the retract position. Works well for a few pounds spent and allows the shute room for tacking. Go on have a go. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Our previous yacht, a Dehler 37CR had a 3 inch diameter ring mounted on u-bolts to the pulpit and a bracket on the deck, which allowed the spinnaker pole to be pushed out (about 3 feet) through the ring and it's after end controlled by the bracket.

A loop with a block fastened into the spinnaker pole end, and a line led through the block and led aft, allowed the cruising chute foot to be mounted about 3 ft ahead of anchor roller and the height controlled from the cockpit.

Worked REALLY well...
 
We have a Selden retractable sprit to fly a gennaker or racing assymetric. Fairly easy to retrofit I would think and works a treat
 
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