Cruisair (Dometic) Control Board

John100156

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Hi

I need a new control board for my Cruisair FX10CK AC unit, which uses the SMXht controller, the RJ12 socket is corroded as image below. Otherwise the unit works well.

Anyone know a company that can supply one in the UK????

CRUISAIR CONTROL BOARD.jpg
 
John, a PCB repair firm would just replace the RJ12 connector if you post the PCB to them. I have used this service before and found them excellent (I can't remember the name of the repairer I used, sorry, but there are loads of them and it ain't rocket science)
 
Mark,
Thanks, I will check out BBP.

Hi John,
I am fairly certain its only the RJ12 socket (6p6C), which I intended to de-solder and solder-in a new fly lead with socket on. Only trouble is we go home this weekend and the daughter, her hubby and two grandkids are out next visit, just a day after we arrive and if their cabin AC is not working, I would need some fairly heavy ear defenders for a week.....!

I hope to buy a new board and repair the old one to keep as a spare. 2 of the 3 systems onboard our boat use this board.
 
You could try Microair in the states, I upgraded my old controllers to Easy Touch and found them very helpful and delivery to the UK only took 4 days, you can probably use the FX1 board as a direct replacement and should work with your existing SMX controllers, worth contacting them for options

FX-1 Control Board
 
John, a PCB repair firm would just replace the RJ12 connector if you post the PCB to them. I have used this service before and found them excellent (I can't remember the name of the repairer I used, sorry, but there are loads of them and it ain't rocket science)

Seconded, they aren't too hard for someone that knows what they're doing.
 
Removed the board, looks in pretty good condition to both front and rear, so definitely worth repairing.

You can see the corroded RJ12 socket that receives the display connection; ignored several warnings last year when the screen went blank and shortly recovered, so obviously a HR/corroded connection . I did the obvious and checked the easily accessible display end connector as its a bit of a bugger getting at the control box end, so left it...... yet another lesson learned at 67 years old :rolleyes::

Doc1.jpg
 
There's a pin entirely missing in that RJ12 John!😀

The rest of the board looks brand new (y)
Looks like all the pins were soldered to the board at some time!!
So the missing pin is probably the problem.

Doc1.jpg

I'm interested because I also have one that is intermittent.
We got it working last year by accident when we unplugged and reconnected the controller.
 
pretty sure you'd be able to unsolder one of the end pins (which iirc are not used) and solder it in the missing spot...
that would be a fairly cheap fix 😁
 
pretty sure you'd be able to unsolder one of the end pins (which iirc are not used) and solder it in the missing spot...
that would be a fairly cheap fix 😁

Failing that snip the connector off and solder the wires straight to the bottom of the PCB
if you are thrifty you shouldn't even need any extra solder :)
 
Hi,

Thanks for posting. I have the same aircon unit in a P50 (2008) and the same board has gone in one of my units. Unfortunately my issue is not as obvious as the one you have and I'm having a hell of a time getting anything from either Princess or Dometic (New Zealand).

If anyone has a contact for repair/ replacement for this board (globally) I'd really appreciate it.

Many thanks,

James.
 
There's a pin entirely missing in that RJ12 John!😀

The rest of the board looks brand new (y)

John:
Agreed - Mea Culpa, the socket was badly corroded and the pin disintegrated when I attempted a light clean with a club hammer, wire brush and chain saw....!:)

Mike:
I considered a new RJ12 socket, but instead opted to solder-in two sets of three pins (as they were in the draw) the socket pins were standard pcb spaced. I had an RJ12 extension lead with plug and socket, cut the plug off and connected it as a fly lead to the pins. Socket de-soldered relatively easily and no sensitive components in too close proximity. Only took about 15 mins to repair. I will not show you the reverse side of the PCB, no dry joints and good continuity, but my soldering is not as pretty as it use to be :geek: should have gone to Specsavers......

You can buy a new board from Citimarine and they ship US-UK. The replacement board reference is ASY-509-X01 they have it in stock at $312.29

Right image below the repair - Left image the new board from www.citimarine.com:

Doc1.jpg
 
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I have an intermittent issue that I thought might be the same as John's.
Started it up this morning and that intermittent issue reappeared.
So I went straight to my equivalent of John's connector and mine looks fine.

So I swapped the wall keypad for another on the boat and the system seems to be working.

So, does anyone know of a good supply of these SMXht keypad/controllers?

SMXht_with_Bronze_Bezel.jpg
 
Well the end result to my problem was to buy a second hand PCB from EBay for £100 that eagle-eyed Hurricane spotted, unfortunately the one he received had a clearly damaged component on the board, so I was not too optimistic even though my one looked OK.

Well, I fitted the PCB (rather than fit my repaired board, so as to keep it as standard as I could) and switched on, the room control module sprang into action but pump did not start (pump shared by two DX units).

Bugger I thought, must be the Triac on the bargain board that sends the signal to the PR3 module pump relay trigger.

With 4 guests due out tomorrow, I thought I would just go and check the trigger first to see if it was OK, thinking I would just wire the pump switched direct-on-line if not, and sort it out after 5 days when they were all gone!

As I was checking the triggers in the pump module and I looked over at the AC units PCB and shock horror, I saw a wire that was not connected. Can’t be, I would never make a mistake like that I AM AN ENGINEER it must have snapped off..,!

Lifted up the galley door in the floor, squeezed down through the hatch (not easy with a broken back) and of course, it was the trigger feed from the PCB to the pump relay module (situated below the starboard berth bunk).

I carefully checked all other connections, I convinced myself this cable was hiding under another cable, didn’t bother to check my pics/notes before reconnecting 😩

Turned the unit on again and hey presto the pump started, all three AC units on the boat (I fitted a new packaged unit to the saloon a couple of months ago) are now working perfectly! Good feeling for just £100.

I blame age and failing eyesight 😂

Now onto the next job….
 
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