Crimping (non-hairdressy)

S

stranded

Well-Known Member
Joined
3 Dec 2012
Messages
2,561
Location
Lympstone
Visit site
As an electrical numpty, three times now I have set out to buy some crimpers only to leave the store bemused and empty handed. As on anything there seem to be as many opinions as there are sailors on best way to make joints so have decided that my default will be unisolated crimped connections, soldered and finished with heat shrink adhesive tubing. Although to start I will stick to playing with lower current circuits until I learn more, I am gradually amassing a tool-kit with a view to eventual self-sufficiency, so I guess I will need different sized crimpers to cover the fatter wires. Grateful for any advice on what are the key qualities I need to be looking for in crimpers to do the above, and ideally, a suggestion for a couple of specific models that will cover most of what I can anticipate needing to do. Only want to buy once so decent quality over price, within reason.

Thanking you as ever in anticipation.

Mark
 
The Ancor 701030 ratchet crimper is what I have. Expensive but top quality. It covers the three popular connector sizes - red, yellow and blue.
 
Thanks John - they look like quality kit but I think are for isolated connectors whereas I was planning on going down the non-isolated route. That might yet change though. Mark
 
You have certainly made the right decision to go with open barrel uninsulated terminals IMHO, buy good quality tinned terminals and separate covers, use heat shrink where covers are inappropriate but normally covers with tinned cable is sufficient for a quality lasting job, solder is surplus to requirements on a well made crimp and can be counter productive, if well made there will be nowhere for the solder to flow after crimping. As for the tool, perhaps you could give a guide as to the budget as they run from about £30 to about £250. Knippex are quality mid range.
 
Thanks David - including for the assurance I am going in the right direction. No budget as such but I do have a weakness for well made tools that just sit right in the hand. That said, I am not going to be refitting loads of boats so just need to work and from reading about, there is some dross out there - let's say £100 max but less is Lways nice. Can you recommend (or sell me! - perhaps PM) a model!? Mark
 
Thought that was going to be too easy to be true (you selling them!) but the ones you recommend look just the job and should give me flexibility if when I graduate to fancier stuff, so thank you very much for the recommendation. Mark
 
Last edited:
Ideally, the crimp tool should be specified for the particular brand of crimp terminal.
Also, the crimp terminal needs to be correct for the gauge of wire.
It's worth crimping a scrap piece of wire and seeing how hard it is to pull the crimp off.
If you cannot do pretty good crimps for any reason, amateur soldering is better than indifferent crimping in my experience of sorting out other people's boats.

Many wires fail because the terminal is the only thing supporting the wire, causing the wire to fatigue close to the crimp. Securing wires together into a loom and anchoring it to the structure will make things much more reliable. I find that is more critical than whether the terminal is crimped or soldered.
I have seen some truly appalling amateur soldering, particularly with lead free solder. Get a decent hot iron and a 'no clean flux pen'.
 
There is just nothing simple with boats is there!

Had decided on the crimp for mechanical then solder for protection route but then started reading all the stuff about the solder effectively negating the benefit of multi-strand wire because of the vibrations. That makes intuitive sense. But then so does belt and braces...

Seems like the biggest difference might be the quality of the joint - whatever you do, do it well. Oh well, best get on and do something at least - then I can add my own opinions to the mix as well!
 
ohmaggie said:
There is just nothing simple with boats is there!

Had decided on the crimp for mechanical then solder for protection route but then started reading all the stuff about the solder effectively negating the benefit of multi-strand wire because of the vibrations. That makes intuitive sense. But then so does belt and braces...

Seems like the biggest difference might be the quality of the joint - whatever you do, do it well. Oh well, best get on and do something at least - then I can add my own opinions to the mix as well!
Click to expand...

This months PBO has an article on the relative effectiveness of multiple connections methods - might be worth a read??
 
My ratchet crimpers came from Maplin and were about £30 from memory.

What is not mentioned in the instructions is that the final pressure is adjustable. It's a bit of a faff for one crimp, but it works. I just make trial crimps until happy that the wire is more likely to break than the joint.

I don't know whether the adjustment range is enough for both types - I haven't worked my way through the enormous bag of insulated terminals that I bought.

My message is that you don't have to beat yourself up for not buying the very best tool.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top