Cradle or legs?

[bendyone]

My only concern is whether the GRP around the windows is strong enough to support the forces the "legs" could produce. With mine the top mounting position is well re-enforced with a pad moulded in.

 

[Kelpie]

Would it be possible to use a chainplate as a mounting point for legs? I would think the forces are about in the right direction.

 

[melandnick]

bendyone - She is cold moulded no GRP is sight ( well, she is clad under the waterline )
I had the coachroof rebuilt with new laminated frames about 10 years ago and she is VERY strong in this area. Certainlly much stronger than any GRP boats topsides ( even with reinforcement )

Robwhelton - very good suggestion. Last year I had the chainplates moved from inboard, where they always leaked through the deck when they flexed, to outboard. they are now very heavy stainless straps bolted to the outside of the hull with substantial backing inside.

 

[melandnick]

Just found these pics on my phone.
Hopefully they will explain the boat better than I could.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/melandnick/4950792511/
and
http://www.flickr.com/photos/melandnick/4951384258/in/photostream/

Nick

 

[NormanS]

I agree. Many of the 'solutions' offered above are either way over the top or total lashups. Yacht Legs are superb and a yacht will be perfectly safe on them in any forseeable conditions. My first winter on them was at a boatyard right on the edge of the Menai Strait at quite an exposed yard. The boat never moved. The next time was in Holland, which was where I completely stripped all my antifouling and applied Gelshield. The legs are brilliant for this because there is nothing in contact with the underwater surface.

The boat next to ours was held up with its legs last winter. It moved. OK, only a little, but quite worrying when you're next to it. I don't know what make of legs they are, but seemingly they have some form of hydraulic shock absorbing device, which seems like a really bad idea for winter lay-up. I have a steel cradle.

 

[vyv_cox]

Hi Vyv,

I see from your picture above that you splurged on the adjustable ones, was that money well spent over the plain types ? </Just curious>

Boo2

We found them very useful. Although advice is to always check the bottom at low water before drying out this is hardly practical in most cruising situations. Inevitably there are occasions when the bottom is not as flat as might be imagined, so the ability to adjust the length is very useful.

It is also useful when drying against a wall, put one leg on the outside and apply sufficient load that the boat dries leaning inwards. It is then left in place to prevent any unwanted accidents.

 

[vyv_cox]

bendyone - She is cold moulded no GRP is sight ( well, she is clad under the waterline )
I had the coachroof rebuilt with new laminated frames about 10 years ago and she is VERY strong in this area. Certainlly much stronger than any GRP boats topsides ( even with reinforcement )

The loads on the legs are remarkably low when the boat is sitting upright. All the weight is carried on the keel (40% or so is the keel) with the legs only preventing the boat from rolling sideways. This is not a big load.

I wasn't suggesting that you fork out for Yacht Legs. Very many boats, especially long keel ones, use timber legs bolted to the topsides of the hull. You only need two timbers, 4 x 4 inch would be about right, through bolted. There are various ways of doing this in a sensible way, i.e. without having 4 inch long bolts sticking out of the topsides. Could be a worthwhile investment for you at very little cost.

 

[stav]

Reading through this thread the thing that would worry me would be sitting the boat on soft earth. We see boats in yards on simple props but ultimately it might only be on gravel but that will have been well consolidated. My boat drys each tide on a wooden cradle which is actually made from 9"x3" timbers with 7"x 2" uprights but you could modify the concept. My boat is a Nic 36 longish keel and about 7-8tons. I keep her in the cradle but do move her to the marina if extreme winds are forecast.

Additionally have you thought of digging a hole for the keel to sit in?

Also I would not put props on ply but would consider scaffold boards. I would also imaging boat and props will need to settle at the same rate. At least it is in the garden and you can keep and eye on it and I would want to build in adjustment. Obviously taking the mast down will make a big difference.

Good luck with it and I hope you get allyour prep down, though she looks a fine vessel and not in need of too much time.

 

[melandnick]

Thought I would just post a couple of pics of the final solution.
It has been very happily sitting in the back garden now for about 5 weeks.
I ended up with her sitting on 4x sleepers with supports wedged against the hull and screwed to the sleepers at the bottom and then everything cross braced. The keel is then held from moving by blocks screwed into the sleepers.
Seems to be totally secure and stable so far.......touching wood as I type this.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
Nick

http://www.flickr.com/photos/melandnick/5162023059/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/melandnick/5162544658/in/set-72157624751235339/

 

[rudolph_hart]

Hi Guys

As always, I appreciate all the advice but couple of points.
Unfortunately the cost of the legs falls outside of my budget so they are out ( otherwise I would get a cradle )
Not sure what the problem is with the scaffolding + acro idea is though. everything will be well padded with either large ply pads or scaffold planks to spread the load on the ground.
Any comments?

I've used this system for the last 25 years on 3 different boats, ranging from 33 ft racer, 2x Dehler 34s, and current Dehler 35 (wing keel), mast both up & down. As has been said before, cross bracing is key.

Here's a photo