cost of running rigging

Chae_73

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Could anyone give a ballpark cost for replacing the running rigging on a Westerly Storm 33? Any any particular thing I should look for in buying new halyards? I'm guessing it would make sense to change the main and genoa halyards, and topping lift. I don't think the spinnaker halyard has seen too much use but possibly worth changing that one too.

Just trying to get a rough schedule of work for this winter - and budget. Boat is new to us.

Many thanks.
 
Why not measure them up, make a list and do a bit of browsing ...

you might see an offer or good price which you could take advantage of if you knew exactly what you needed...
Jimmy Green Marine had a good website where you can 'build' your running rigging up. I don't know how their prices compare with other places but it is a good starting point.
 
Thanks both.

Yes, I will measure them and have a look around online. Just wanted to get a rough idea so I can add to my list. I'll allow £80 per line and hopefully end up with some change.
 
Think I paid around £80 a halyard - it’s a big old mast for a 33 footer..
Im in the process of upgrading the reefing system to (real - no in boom block )single line which is going to require a decent investment in more new rope..

splicing an eye is pretty simple so no need to pay a premium for someone else to do it. Plenty lessons on line.
 
There's more affordable braid-on-Dyneema available these days. Worth comparing while you're looking. You can probably go down a size as well eg 12mm to 10mm. The constraint is more about handling than strength. Even SK38 will perform better than braid-on-braid.
 
When you add it all up, there's an awful lot of line involved. Three halyards, three sheets, topping lift and reefing lines. I just had my boom refurbished, which was essentially replacing the reefing lines and a roller, a job I would not like to have done myself, and it was circa £500. it will also depend on what you go for, I would recommend that you use dyneema for the main and genoa halyard, but as Mike says, there are many options of dyneema available This was all on a Westerly Ocean 33, which will be of similar size to a Storm. Also make sure you get a mousing loop in any new lines, it will make things a lot easier for DIY next time round.
 
Prob with dynema is that strength for strength it is much thinner and pulling on 6 mm halyard is sore on the handies ! ,, and similar size is much more expensive ,,, find out exactly what it is that you need and keep an eye on gumtree etc , stuff is always coming up .
 
Prob with dynema is that strength for strength it is much thinner and pulling on 6 mm halyard is sore on the handies ! ,, and similar size is much more expensive ,,, find out exactly what it is that you need and keep an eye on gumtree etc , stuff is always coming up .

you can easily sleeve thin dynema where you handle /jam it with larger outer sheath stripped from cheap rope ends..
 
apologies for my ignorance but what is the advantage of dyneema for halyards?

Genuine question as I'll happily pay a bit more for a better product.
Lighter , less windage , cant see that it has any less stretch than a halyard which already has no give .
 
I certainly found that the main halyard stretch after an hour or so reduced luff tension and subsequently the shape of the sail before changing to dyneema, the same with the genoa.
 
When I priced up mine, it was cheaper to buy the bits and do it myself, including a proper hot knife.
It's easy to learn to do the splices, even easier if you use a d-splicer.
 
A word of caution about splicing. If you need to splice your ropes ask the supplier or check the manufacturers website to see how easily sliced the rope is. I have has some that I can splice easily, and one coil of Liros rope that was so tightly woven that splicing was impossible. In any case I do not recommend splicing halyards because the fatter tail of the splice will be damaged if pulled up so that it meets the sheave at the masthead. A halyard knot is the proper solution.
 
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