StoicWarrior
Well-Known Member
I am considering a charter out of Ajaccio, Corsica (Jun or Sep) ... who can share opinions, experiences or thoughts about Corsica?
Corsica - experienced opinions?
- Thread starter StoicWarrior
- Start date
gfbalduc
Well-Known Member
My favourite cruising ground in western Mediterranean! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
With the exception of the easterly stretch of coast between Portovecchio and Bastia, all coasts are highly spectacular and rich of coves and sheltered anchorages.
Some of the towns, in particular Calvi, Bonifacio and to a lesser extent Ajaccio, Saint Florent, Bastia and Portovecchio, are still very charming in their rough way.
Winds around the island tend to be counter-clock wise, so this is the logical direction in which to circle the island itself.
On the western coast, the Mistral north-westerly blowing from the Gulf of Lyons at the end of passing depressions may add itself to the local breezes and conditions expecially in the Bonifacio straits may become challenging.
Mid-July to end-August it's very crowded and often wind-less, June and September are much better, but weather conditions may just happen to be rough for several consecutive days.
The interior is equally dramatic and well worth a trip by car.
With the exception of the easterly stretch of coast between Portovecchio and Bastia, all coasts are highly spectacular and rich of coves and sheltered anchorages.
Some of the towns, in particular Calvi, Bonifacio and to a lesser extent Ajaccio, Saint Florent, Bastia and Portovecchio, are still very charming in their rough way.
Winds around the island tend to be counter-clock wise, so this is the logical direction in which to circle the island itself.
On the western coast, the Mistral north-westerly blowing from the Gulf of Lyons at the end of passing depressions may add itself to the local breezes and conditions expecially in the Bonifacio straits may become challenging.
Mid-July to end-August it's very crowded and often wind-less, June and September are much better, but weather conditions may just happen to be rough for several consecutive days.
The interior is equally dramatic and well worth a trip by car.
Danny_Labrador
Well-Known Member
SWMBO written this for you..........
Last year, early July), we chartered from Sail-Italy in Etrusca on Mainland Italy. We spent the first couple of nights in Portoferraio, Elba before setting off for Maccinaggio, Corsica.
Maccinaggio is a mix of Italian French and where we had the best meal of the holiday.
We had to spend 3 nights there because the weather, although hot, turned very windy. The only people to leave Maccinaggio were an Italian family in a Halberg Rassy. We later met up with them
in St Florent and they said it took them 7 hours from Maccinaggio to St Florent, with the father at the helm and the mother and two children below being violently ill. When they reached St Florent,
there was a welcoming party, such were the conditions.
We were in regular contact with Paola, Sail-Italy’s representative at Etrusca, whose forecasts were significantly better than those available at the marinas. She advised us strongly not to sail when the Italians did and she was right.
At St Florent, although very hot, the wind again got up and an American couple who tried to get to Cappraia turned back.
Conditions were very changeable and not as forecast but our information from Sail-Italy’s representative were always correct.
Rounding the north of Corsica from Maccinaggio to St Florent was not nearly as awesome as we expected and the sail down to St Florent, having rounded the northern tip was around 9 knotts all down wind – excellent.
Northern Corsica is lovely and uncommercialised – can’t speak for the rest of it but Maccinaggio to St Florent is well worth the trip. So, incidentally is Elba if you have the time to spare.
Last year, early July), we chartered from Sail-Italy in Etrusca on Mainland Italy. We spent the first couple of nights in Portoferraio, Elba before setting off for Maccinaggio, Corsica.
Maccinaggio is a mix of Italian French and where we had the best meal of the holiday.
We had to spend 3 nights there because the weather, although hot, turned very windy. The only people to leave Maccinaggio were an Italian family in a Halberg Rassy. We later met up with them
in St Florent and they said it took them 7 hours from Maccinaggio to St Florent, with the father at the helm and the mother and two children below being violently ill. When they reached St Florent,
there was a welcoming party, such were the conditions.
We were in regular contact with Paola, Sail-Italy’s representative at Etrusca, whose forecasts were significantly better than those available at the marinas. She advised us strongly not to sail when the Italians did and she was right.
At St Florent, although very hot, the wind again got up and an American couple who tried to get to Cappraia turned back.
Conditions were very changeable and not as forecast but our information from Sail-Italy’s representative were always correct.
Rounding the north of Corsica from Maccinaggio to St Florent was not nearly as awesome as we expected and the sail down to St Florent, having rounded the northern tip was around 9 knotts all down wind – excellent.
Northern Corsica is lovely and uncommercialised – can’t speak for the rest of it but Maccinaggio to St Florent is well worth the trip. So, incidentally is Elba if you have the time to spare.
gfbalduc
Well-Known Member
Just an additional teaser....
The location is Calvi, at the north-western tip of the island.
Can be very windy when the Mistral blows, but there is a huge field of mooring buoys that are manageable even in gale conditions.
The location is Calvi, at the north-western tip of the island.
Can be very windy when the Mistral blows, but there is a huge field of mooring buoys that are manageable even in gale conditions.
boatmike
Well-Known Member
Oh goody!! Expect to be there in July...... What are the mooring fees like?
gianenrico
Well-Known Member
All the above holds true.
2005 was somehow a "wierd"summer, with several subsequent Mistral blows one after the other.
We had planned to do west Corsica and west Sardinia and ended doing both, albeit on the east side....
For our 30 ft we paid around 30 or 33 € per night, including water, electricity and hot shower in Corsica, 30 to 50% more in Sardinia (and with lesser services).
Sunsail has a base in Macinaggio, which is an hour drive from Bastia intl. airport.
If You start from Ajaccio, then a sensible thing, IMHO, would be to go south, then visit the "Bouches" and may be the italian islands around Maddalena.
Bonifacio is absolutly a must, but if You get caught by the Mistral You have to spend 2 days and then leave 04.00 only if You intend togo eastward.BEWARE: the small bay (Cala Catena) just before the berthing has the worse holding ground I ever met and You'll need 50 meters chain per anchor with 2 anchors.
The interior, as Gian wrote, is absolutly gorgeous: from Porto Vecchio You get in the "middle of the Alps" in 30 minutes ride.
Cheers,
Gianenrico
2005 was somehow a "wierd"summer, with several subsequent Mistral blows one after the other.
We had planned to do west Corsica and west Sardinia and ended doing both, albeit on the east side....
For our 30 ft we paid around 30 or 33 € per night, including water, electricity and hot shower in Corsica, 30 to 50% more in Sardinia (and with lesser services).
Sunsail has a base in Macinaggio, which is an hour drive from Bastia intl. airport.
If You start from Ajaccio, then a sensible thing, IMHO, would be to go south, then visit the "Bouches" and may be the italian islands around Maddalena.
Bonifacio is absolutly a must, but if You get caught by the Mistral You have to spend 2 days and then leave 04.00 only if You intend togo eastward.BEWARE: the small bay (Cala Catena) just before the berthing has the worse holding ground I ever met and You'll need 50 meters chain per anchor with 2 anchors.
The interior, as Gian wrote, is absolutly gorgeous: from Porto Vecchio You get in the "middle of the Alps" in 30 minutes ride.
Cheers,
Gianenrico
bbilly
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Oh goody!! Expect to be there in July...... What are the mooring fees like?
[/ QUOTE ]
Lots (the main ports) of marinas are municipal so costs are reasonable, most have good clean toilet facilities, I remember Calvi and it was quite acceptable. The problem is finding a free berth which can (if you don't know how to go about it) be very difficult. But then when you get one it's difficult to leave it as most of the towns in Corsica are also fun in the evening with good restaurants, bars and attractions. So beaches and swimming and then some fun in town while cruising. I remember a celebration for "Bastille Day" Lume e son" or thereabouts in Calvi harbour, it was superb. Girolata is a place to visit, sea and mountains. Have fun but be prepared for full-up marinas.
BB
Oh goody!! Expect to be there in July...... What are the mooring fees like?
[/ QUOTE ]
Lots (the main ports) of marinas are municipal so costs are reasonable, most have good clean toilet facilities, I remember Calvi and it was quite acceptable. The problem is finding a free berth which can (if you don't know how to go about it) be very difficult. But then when you get one it's difficult to leave it as most of the towns in Corsica are also fun in the evening with good restaurants, bars and attractions. So beaches and swimming and then some fun in town while cruising. I remember a celebration for "Bastille Day" Lume e son" or thereabouts in Calvi harbour, it was superb. Girolata is a place to visit, sea and mountains. Have fun but be prepared for full-up marinas.
BB
whisper
Well-Known Member
Chartered via Nautilus ex Etrusca Marina a couple of Mays ago.
As earlier correspondent said, Elba was excellent.
Then went across to Bastia - moored stern-to in old port - had to move during the night due to waves (ok, spray) coming over the top of the sea wall in a gale force N.E'ly. Bastia itself very scruffy, though with a lot of character - wouldn't wander about at night on my own though. Macinaggio - small marina, small village, couple of reasonable restaurants (albeit with a strange view of "service"). Good chandlery, but a pretty boring place really.
Sail up around C.Corse and down to St Florent very nice. Very shallow entrance to St. F. but definitely worth visiting - super little town. Some beautiful large, sandy beaches on opposite side of bay.
Return trip from St.F. to Capraia was the coldest sail we'd ever had. Still felt frozen even though I was wearing my whole wardrobe - N'ly F6/7 and snow on the mountains - yes, in May!! This was the only occasion I've ever seen when no one wanted to be at the helm. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
I'd be happy to go back and explore the allegedly very beautiful W.coast.
As earlier correspondent said, Elba was excellent.
Then went across to Bastia - moored stern-to in old port - had to move during the night due to waves (ok, spray) coming over the top of the sea wall in a gale force N.E'ly. Bastia itself very scruffy, though with a lot of character - wouldn't wander about at night on my own though. Macinaggio - small marina, small village, couple of reasonable restaurants (albeit with a strange view of "service"). Good chandlery, but a pretty boring place really.
Sail up around C.Corse and down to St Florent very nice. Very shallow entrance to St. F. but definitely worth visiting - super little town. Some beautiful large, sandy beaches on opposite side of bay.
Return trip from St.F. to Capraia was the coldest sail we'd ever had. Still felt frozen even though I was wearing my whole wardrobe - N'ly F6/7 and snow on the mountains - yes, in May!! This was the only occasion I've ever seen when no one wanted to be at the helm. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
I'd be happy to go back and explore the allegedly very beautiful W.coast.
jerryat
Well-Known Member
Gianenrico,
Were the rates you quoted during the 'high' (i.e. expensive!!) season, around July/August? Just seems a lot for 30' 0" compared to mainland Spain.
Cheers Jerry
Were the rates you quoted during the 'high' (i.e. expensive!!) season, around July/August? Just seems a lot for 30' 0" compared to mainland Spain.
Cheers Jerry
boatmike
Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot for that my friend. Sounds a bit expensive but not to be missed.
Getting excited now as departure from the "frozen north" approaches.
Getting excited now as departure from the "frozen north" approaches.
StoicWarrior
Well-Known Member
Gents - thanks one & all for the very good info & opinions ... I'm looking forward to it but the wife says she will watch the weather like a hawk! I have just booked air tkts & a hire car 3 days ahead of charter so as to explore the interior (thanks esp to Giancarlo ... PS, a mate of mine owns an OVNI - great boat!)
More views & opinions welcomed from any & all ...
More views & opinions welcomed from any & all ...
gianenrico
Well-Known Member
Yep, in mid july2005.
Tariffs based on one night stay, weekly or monthly tariffs might be lower.
BTW, IMHO between Cap Corse and St. Florent, charming minuscule village of Century deserves a visit anchoring in the small bay, going to shore for "langouste".
Cheers,
Gianenrico
Tariffs based on one night stay, weekly or monthly tariffs might be lower.
BTW, IMHO between Cap Corse and St. Florent, charming minuscule village of Century deserves a visit anchoring in the small bay, going to shore for "langouste".
Cheers,
Gianenrico
gianenrico
Well-Known Member
Best arrangment You could make!!
In 3 days You can go from Ajaccio to Bastia trough the northern coastal route, then Bastia to Bonifacio via Porto Vecchio (going up and down the central range) and then back to Ajaccio.
Suggest Michelin red book of France (if you can receive I can scan and mail you the pages covering Corsica- some 10 pages) and Michelin road map. As You will later sail by, IMHO it makes sense to "Mountain as much as possible with the car.
Plse note that locals tend to appreciate people speakig in their dialect (which resembles italian) more than french: so just "buongiorno", "per favore" and "grazie"may be mor helpful than "bonjour", "s'il vous plait" and "merci".
Weatherwise, on the west coast there is a number of well sheltered harbours so if you get caught by a "Coup de Mistral" You get to shelter in no more than a couple of hours maxi.
As for tariffs, many marinas have a 2 to 4 hours free visiting permission, so You can provision, shop and water without charge.
PM for any specific info.
Cheers Gianenrico
In 3 days You can go from Ajaccio to Bastia trough the northern coastal route, then Bastia to Bonifacio via Porto Vecchio (going up and down the central range) and then back to Ajaccio.
Suggest Michelin red book of France (if you can receive I can scan and mail you the pages covering Corsica- some 10 pages) and Michelin road map. As You will later sail by, IMHO it makes sense to "Mountain as much as possible with the car.
Plse note that locals tend to appreciate people speakig in their dialect (which resembles italian) more than french: so just "buongiorno", "per favore" and "grazie"may be mor helpful than "bonjour", "s'il vous plait" and "merci".
Weatherwise, on the west coast there is a number of well sheltered harbours so if you get caught by a "Coup de Mistral" You get to shelter in no more than a couple of hours maxi.
As for tariffs, many marinas have a 2 to 4 hours free visiting permission, so You can provision, shop and water without charge.
PM for any specific info.
Cheers Gianenrico
StoicWarrior
Well-Known Member
V. good extra info, Gianenrico, thanks. We own a Red Book already but thanks for the offer.
Q: anyone ever take the U train north out of Ajaccio?
Q: anyone ever take the U train north out of Ajaccio?
gfbalduc
Well-Known Member
Your mention of air tanks reminds me of an information which has not been mentioned yet:
some coastlines are part of nature reserves where restrictions to anchoring and scuba diving apply.
Surveilance is normally kind but very strict.
Most notable is the Scandola reserve, about halfway between Ajaccio and Calvi.
Another is the island of Lavezzi, in the Bonifacio straits.
Both lovely places, deserving a visit (within the rules!).
Info brochures should be available in marinas and I suppose the charter company will provide them to you.
Some info + virtual tour are available on this site
some coastlines are part of nature reserves where restrictions to anchoring and scuba diving apply.
Surveilance is normally kind but very strict.
Most notable is the Scandola reserve, about halfway between Ajaccio and Calvi.
Another is the island of Lavezzi, in the Bonifacio straits.
Both lovely places, deserving a visit (within the rules!).
Info brochures should be available in marinas and I suppose the charter company will provide them to you.
Some info + virtual tour are available on this site
gianenrico
Well-Known Member
Here are some picturesque pictures:
http://www.simplonpc.co.uk/CFC.html
and here You can get the time table:
http://www.voyages-sncf.com/dynamic/_SvT...=1138827856510#
I never took the train but often appreciated the puffing element of the small gauge railway as it winds up and down the hills: it takes 4 hours from Ajaccio to Ile Rousse.
Cheers,
Gianenrico
http://www.simplonpc.co.uk/CFC.html
and here You can get the time table:
http://www.voyages-sncf.com/dynamic/_SvT...=1138827856510#
I never took the train but often appreciated the puffing element of the small gauge railway as it winds up and down the hills: it takes 4 hours from Ajaccio to Ile Rousse.
Cheers,
Gianenrico
stephenh
Well-Known Member
On the train from Ajaccio to Corte a good few years ago , the train was held up by the local Nationalists who came on board, explained their political stance, harangued a few obvious targets, passed around a lot of leaflets and then apologised for the delay and let us go...
One of the 'train rides of the world', stunning engineering, views etc. well worth the ride...
One of the 'train rides of the world', stunning engineering, views etc. well worth the ride...
StoicWarrior
Well-Known Member
Feedback - We have just returned from 2 weeks in Corsican waters and I have to say it was some of the most pleasant cruising we have ever had. As it was early season, there was never a problem finding a secluded anchorage or getting a marina berth (although Bonifacio filled up with a few left rafted out the night we were there). Good value, too, compared to mainland France or Sardinia. We even rented a car for the two days that it rained and we went inland to Corte; good idea. Now, there are always hiccups and dislikes, of course, but I will not dwell on them here.
Thanks to all for input earlier thins year, esp you, Gian. We would go back there in a heartbeat!
Thanks to all for input earlier thins year, esp you, Gian. We would go back there in a heartbeat!
shanwick
Member
Just back from 10 days in Corsica. Rather than rushing around the island, we cruised down from the French Riviera and spent varying amounts of time in Revelatta, Ile Rousse, Saint Florent, Centuri, Maccinagio, Saint Sever and finally Bastia.
We anchored off each night but nipped into Maccinagio for a couple of hours to fill the tanks. No charge for the berth but 8 Euros for 300 litres of water. Still cheaper than Evian!
Left the boat in Bastia Vieux Port this morning for 11 days as work calls. The official Price List asked for 40 Euros a night for a 10m boat but the Captainerie billed us only 260 Euros, writing 8m on our invoice. It doesn't get better than that.
Rather than continuing around the island, we're intending to sail back to the Riviera via Capraia, Marine di Pisa, La Spezia, Porto Fino and Monaco.
Looking forward to finishing the West / South coast in August.
We anchored off each night but nipped into Maccinagio for a couple of hours to fill the tanks. No charge for the berth but 8 Euros for 300 litres of water. Still cheaper than Evian!
Left the boat in Bastia Vieux Port this morning for 11 days as work calls. The official Price List asked for 40 Euros a night for a 10m boat but the Captainerie billed us only 260 Euros, writing 8m on our invoice. It doesn't get better than that.
Rather than continuing around the island, we're intending to sail back to the Riviera via Capraia, Marine di Pisa, La Spezia, Porto Fino and Monaco.
Looking forward to finishing the West / South coast in August.
Twister_Ken
Well-Known Member
Monaco - you're really looking at finishing the trip on a low point!
