Corribee A-bolt. Which rigging screw?

[Corto]

Hello everybody. I am Simone from Italy and I am the happy owner of a Corribee here in Tuscany. On my boat I have replaced the old U-bolt with new 8mm A-bolt. The overall looks very sturdy. I would like to know from any Corribee owner which rigging screw diameter (model) I should use with the new chainplates. The old ones seems too small and when I tried to screw it they slightly bend and I am afraid that under pression the two flange will deform and break. Do you have any suggestions? Many thanks from Italy.

 

[LP1]

why have you replaced a u-bolt with an a-bolt?

Be sure that your threads match.

I am in a similar position, replacing ss u-bolts on my achilles 24. I am having new ones made to metric m8 but the old ones are imperial.

 

[Corto]

About the A bolts choice. Looking at the Corribee owner website, I found this useful post: http://corribee.org/technical/chainplates-and-turnbuckles/
So I bought the bolts I made the backplates and I fitted the all thing and I made the rigging a bit shorter according to the new chainplates. The problem now is with the rigg screw flange diameter. I made a little sketch just to fill my language deficiency. (I'm Italian)

 

[William_H]

I think you should be fitting rigging screws witha toggle attached. Here is a 6mm toggle end to fit on the rigging screw. 6mm only unfortunately. Toggle ends are usually part of the rigging screw style. The toggle end will allow for more bending in diferent directions before bending the screw section. However be careful they can get twisted up if the mast is lowered. Or use a shackle but do lock wire the pine so it doesn't work loose.(drill a hole through the pin handle. https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?item=71041&search123=71041&intAbsolutePage=1
good luck olewill

 

[Corribee Boy]

I'm thinking of making that modification myself as I'm sure it's a good idea to direct the rigging forces straight through to the deck, rather than laterally, but I'm afraid I can't offer any useful help! Good luck though.

 

[Seajet]

However be careful they can get twisted up if the mast is lowered. [/url]
good luck olewill

I have found a way around this is to tie the bottlescrews up vertically to the guardrails with elastic sail ties, bungees etc before lowering or more importantly raising the mast - when raising one can really do without a sudden stop halfway up when a bottlescrew capsizes !

 

[Norman_E]

What you want is a turnbuckle with a toggle on one end. This web page shows good quality bronze turnbuckles with a Sta Lok firtting one end and a toggle on the other. You can buy these with any combination of ends, but if you make up your own rigging the Sta Lok fittings are the easiest and best. http://www.stalok.com/p-461-toggle-sta-lok.aspx

The same company supply both open body and closed body chrome plated bronze rigging screws, and stainless ones, for both metric and imperial wire sizes. The rigging screw threads are UNF because the fine threads are stronger size for size than the coarser threads used in the metric system. A look at their website will give you an overview of what is available. I would not choose stainless rigging screws as they can gall together under load and seize up. Bronze is the material of choice for rigging screws.