cored deck repair

[PabloPicasso]

i have succesfully completed a repair to a small area of cored deck where some bolted deck gear attaches by:
-removing deck gear
-using an allen key in a drill to break up sodden core
-sucked mess out with hoover
-heat with fan heater from below while sucking air through with hoover
-pour in acetone and wait to evaporate (doesn't take too long)
-when acetone had evaporated pour in thickened epoxy

My question is, would this work for a larger area of spongy deck say 2ft by 2ft?

 

[prv]

When I did it, I used plywood to fill the gap. Reckon you'd be getting through a lot of epoxy if you were using it on its own.

Pete

 

[PabloPicasso]

I was hoping to avoid opening up the deck but maybe I'll have to

 

[Billjratt]

Opening the deck. What's the norm?
I would consider working from below, so as to keep the tread-moulding/teak or whatever intact and hide my efforts behind the headling, but is that really practical?

 

[prv]

Opening the deck. What's the norm?
I would consider working from below, so as to keep the tread-moulding/teak or whatever intact and hide my efforts behind the headling, but is that really practical?

I briefly contemplated it, but I would have been working from inside a locker, curled up in a ball dripping toxic liquids on myself. I'm really glad I didn't try.

Might be more practical in the cabin with better access, but it's still going to be much harder to stick things up than lay them down.

Pete

 

[oldsaltoz]

Do a google search of YBW forums.

I have done many foam repairs from the underside and have writted step by step instructions for all to read.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

...... My question is, would this work for a larger area of spongy deck say 2ft by 2ft?

There are methods for larger areas that involve drilling a number of holes and injecting epoxy glue into the holes. Nothing fancy under pressure just using a syringe to help the epoxy get to the debunked areas, which is what i assume you mean by "spongy".

However if the "spongy" is due to the core having failed by loosing its structure then you have no choice but to cut the damaged core out and replace it. You should be able to use the panel you cut out to rebound to the new core. Then you are just left with finishing the cut line to a standard that matches the original panel.

Both these methods are described in West Systems web site.