Corded kill switch for a Seagull

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Hydrozoan

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There have been discussions, here and elsewhere, about fitting a kill switch to a Seagull, but I have yet to see a report of an installation with a corded switch (rather then just a stop button). My understanding is that the stop modification involves earthing the points (see e.g. post of 31 March 2014 by Pat777 at http://ww.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4687).

I think one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kill-Swit...Postal_Supplies_Labels_LE&hash=item2c7680b8ec might perhaps fit neatly into the hollow end of the tiller, with cabling run up the tiller and out again, before going to the points through a hole drilled in the base of the stator plate. (Extra sealing to the back of the switch might also be a good idea.) In which case, I believe I need the 'Make' version of the switch (as shown), not the 'Break' version also available.

Could someone please confirm that I have correctly understood the basis of the approach, and that this is what would be required? Or offer an alternative, if they have already done it.
 
Sounds right to me. I fitted one to my Johnson (excuse the pun) Which is a combined button and landyard kill switch. The description was published in PBO I think it was last October. There are switches available on ebay that are Make or break depending on which terminals you use.
 
sailorman said:
You have to get it to actually start first :D
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Yes, when I posted I expected responses of that kind, together with suggestions that it would be better not to start it in the first place. :rolleyes:

I hope, however, to not only provide entertainment, but also to elicit serious responses from the Seagull users who still frequent this place.

(And I have personally found Seagulls pretty reliable starters over an acquaintance of nearly 40 years. I remember wisely turning down a wager from an unknown pontoon bystander of like mind, who averred that it would start first time. :))
 
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sailorman said:
I still have 1/2 a seagull ( bought in 1978) in my barn. How many have been run down by their own seagull to date, you have more chance of getting ebola
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Buying half a Seagull may not be the best route to happy ownership. Yep, realised that, too: not primarily a concern about the prop hitting me (though it would not be trivial, I imagine), but just thought I'd prefer it not to run away from me if I fell overboard. (It's being so reliable, I'd never see it again would I? :))
 
Hydrozoan said:
Buying half a Seagull may not be the best route to happy ownership. Yep, realised that, too: not primarily a concern about the prop hitting me (though it would not be trivial, I imagine), but just thought I'd prefer it not to run away from me if I fell overboard. (It's being so reliable, I'd never see it again would I? :))
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it would go hard a stbd ( i think) as no restriction / damper on the shaft
 
Hydrozoan said:
There have been discussions, here and elsewhere, about fitting a kill switch to a Seagull, but I have yet to see a report of an installation with a corded switch (rather then just a stop button). My understanding is that the stop modification involves earthing the points (see e.g. post of 31 March 2014 by Pat777 at http://ww.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4687).

I think one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kill-Swit...Postal_Supplies_Labels_LE&hash=item2c7680b8ec might perhaps fit neatly into the hollow end of the tiller, with cabling run up the tiller and out again, before going to the points through a hole drilled in the base of the stator plate. (Extra sealing to the back of the switch might also be a good idea.) In which case, I believe I need the 'Make' version of the switch (as shown), not the 'Break' version also available.

Could someone please confirm that I have correctly understood the basis of the approach, and that this is what would be required? Or offer an alternative, if they have already done it.
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You understand what's required OK..... In fact one wire can be earthed somewhere convenient and the other connected to the moving contact of the points set or the coil in the case of electronic ignition systems.

The success, or otherwise, I imagine will depend upon your ingenuity in fitting the switch in the tiller.
 
Spyro said:
Sounds right to me. I fitted one to my Johnson (excuse the pun) Which is a combined button and landyard kill switch. The description was published in PBO I think it was last October. There are switches available on ebay that are Make or break depending on which terminals you use.
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VicS said:
You understand what's required OK..... In fact one wire can be earthed somewhere convenient and the other connected to the moving contact of the points set or the coil in the case of electronic ignition systems.

The success, or otherwise, I imagine will depend upon your ingenuity in fitting the switch in the tiller.
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Thanks to you both. I had "taken the top off" last winter but had then found the switches were (temporarily, I presume) unavailable. So I had forgotten about it and now wondered if I had got it right, before trying to order again - so it's good to know I had worked it out and remembered correctly.

Yes, Vic reminds me that I could use an earth return, which would make it a bit neater. I think I had worked out that it would probably fit in the tiller, and hope I'm right. If it did work, it would also make routine stopping easier. Anyway, a potential winter project. (And I'm not such a Seagull enthusiast as to worry about damaging authenticity; about 10 ago I was lucky to pick up a Seagull that had seemingly been used sparingly in fresh water, but it's no longer pristine!)
 
If you take the flywheel off be sure you do it int the approved manner ... which is not with a puller
 
VicS said:
The success, or otherwise, I imagine will depend upon your ingenuity in fitting the switch in the tiller.
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I had plans many years ago to do this using a 1/4" jack socket of the sort with a integral switch in the end of the tiller and a turned plastic plug on the end of a lanyard.
 
sailorman said:
it would go hard a stbd ( i think) as no restriction / damper on the shaft
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I believe there is some scope for damping rotation around the shaft, but I agree its a bit "on/off" - I think it's a castellated nut, so adjustment is quite heavily "quantized". Perhaps mine's a bit too tight, but I don't think it would immediately circle.
 
You can make a ikill switch out of an ordinary toggle switch. You make up a large sqare washer to go under the switch. Bend up the sides and cut so that the bottom can be bent up also such that a loop of cord will be captured by the switch lever when pushed and locked down. The bottom is bent up so that the only escape for the cord loop is by operating the lever. (To a position which shorts the points) Simple an any cord of suitable diameter will work and can be pinned to operator. olewill
 
Its a seagull can you not just put A loop of rope round the HT lead on the spar plug? That way when the extreme acceleration of these powerful 2 stroke engines knock you off your feet throw you out of the boat you disconnect the HT cable and it comes to a stop.

Actually thinking without it you will have been fighting to start the bugger for 20 minutes be tired give it that "one last pull". It will start the shock will knock you off your balance you will fall over the side and the little bugger will then decide to keep running JUST long enough chase you down and kill you. Before puttering its last breath and firing a dirty mix of part burned 2 stoke oil & soot over you upturned body...

I like Seagull Outboards....
 
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OldBawley said:
Better ask in the "Saving Old Seagulls" forum.
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Yes, could have done - my first link in the OP was to there I think. But I don't use that forum and it had been discussed previously here (http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?87412-kill-cord-for-a-seagull). In fact, Onesea's idea of a loop around the HT lead was mooted there, but rejected by several as a health and safety issue in itself! To olewill I say "Ingenious, Mr Bond" (though Goldfinger didn't actually say that). But the problem is also where to put a toggle switch, and it does seem to me that the advertised switch (my link 2) would do what Jumbleduck had in mind 'out of the box'. Finally, I thank Vic for his warning about not using a puller on the flywheel - I seem to remember (bear with me, it's been a year) that one takes the cover off, replaces the big nut on the top, and gives it a sharp blow with a rubber mallet, or somesuch Seagull sophistication. But I don't give that as considered advice - I'll check before I do it.
 
Hydrozoan said:
Finally, I thank Vic for his warning about not using a puller on the flywheel - I seem to remember (bear with me, it's been a year) that one takes the cover off, replaces the big nut on the top, and gives it a sharp blow with a rubber mallet, or somesuch Seagull sophistication. But I don't give that as considered advice - I'll check before I do it.
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While an assistant supports the engine by holding the flywheel rim. But its on the SOS website somewhere.
 
The reason for not using a puller is that the original Wipac flywheels had a habit of cracking. The factory method was to take off the cover, hold the engine up by the thumb and fingers through the slots and whack the nut with a mallet. Hitting square on is important as if you miss it can be painful for the thumb and a glancing blow can distort the rather flexible crankshaft.
 
Tranona said:
The reason for not using a puller is that the original Wipac flywheels had a habit of cracking. The factory method was to take off the cover, hold the engine up by the thumb and fingers through the slots and whack the nut with a mallet. Hitting square on is important as if you miss it can be painful for the thumb and a glancing blow can distort the rather flexible crankshaft.
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Isn't it also terribly important that you have the engine at TDC, or possibly BDC, while doing this? I'd check my manual, but it's in the car and I have a cold.
 
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