Copy of Ford Dover 2722e w/shop manual

I've got a PDF of the Ford 2700 Range Diesel Engine Workshop Manual.

It's 35MB document, so emailing is impractical, but I asked this bloke - http://bf494.co.uk - if I can upload to his site for all and sundry to download and keep their old Fords going. I paid for it so I don't see why others should have to. I await his response... ;)
 
omega2 said:
this bloke is Welsh, his english is not that good how does he read Dutch??
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Oh is that so, we really need people like you having a pop at the Welsh.
What makes you think I am Welsh is it because I live in Wales ??, I assume by your reply you are essex born and bred, if not you amaze me :) I have always taken so called ESSEX jokes with a pinch of salt but now I can see there could be some element of truth there :)
Yes I am Welsh and very proud to be so, so much in fact that when there are still people like you, I would rather be known as Welsh than British.
pandabear.
 
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pandabear said:
Oh is that so, we really need people like you having a pop at the Welsh.
What makes you think I am Welsh is it because I live in Wales ??, I assume by your reply you are essex born and bred, if not you amaze me :) I have always taken so called ESSEX jokes with a pinch of salt but now I can see there could be some element of truth there :)
Yes I am Welsh and very proud to be so, so much in fact that when there are still people like you, I would rather be known as Welsh than British.
pandabear.
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no need to get snotty Panda, it's your old mate from the North and WSF aQUABELL.

and to make amends here is what you you want. I take it you have the pump in your hands,if not remove it.

remove rocker cover, turn engine and observe inlet valve on number one cylinder open and close, the piston is now coming up on the compression stroke. On the starboard side of the engine/bell housing you will find a hole, this is low down as when fitted in lorries the engine ran on it's side, a mirror and light will assist. The next bit needs two bodies, one to turn the engine SLOWLY SLOWLY, and the other to watch the the flywheel and look for the timing marks, chose the one 20 degrees before top dead centre. in the timing chest you will see the gear that drives the pump, there should be a mark on this as well. Remove the plug on the pump face and turn the pump gear until there is a mark in the "window" if you have one replace the rubber "O" ring, there is a special tool that is screwed into the window hole that holds the gear but can be done without it. offer pump up and keeping the mark in the window slide home, (the gears are helicly cut so things might move, try offering the pump inclined towards the block if this happens,) and the elongated slot engaging the stud central if you can. replace the nuts and set studs and tighten. This should be the engine "timed". Replace pipes and bleed, you should have a "runner" The pump can move a bit on it's axis to get perfect timing but not too much as this will deform the injector pipes. Hope this helps.

or you could download this
http://bf494.co.uk/blog1.php/2009/02/21/ford-lehman-marine-diesel-engine-stuff

and copy the ford lehman manual on page one. They are all the same engine FORD.
 
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i have a ford 2722e engine and need to put the cylinder head back on, does anyone know what the torque settings are please?
 
I am a new member to this forum and following this thread to find a Ford Dover 6 cylinder owners manual. I tried the engine-stuff link above without any success. Are there other links I can try?
 
On a tangent to the above string, my boat's Ford Dover engine hasn't been started for 18 + months and I was wondering if anyone has tried to pressurise the oil galleries with oil before turning the engine over with the starter motor. If I removed the oil filtre and made a connector to fit the male threaded connection the oil filtre is screwed onto, then feed oil under pressure to this point, it would in theory lubricate the bearings and bearing surfaces throughout the engine. Yes this oil will return to the sump and have to be removed, but could save on excesive wear on dry bearing surfaces.
It is a thought that has been going round in my head for a while. Any thoughts out there?
 
Remove the injectors add a little diesel into the bores, lay a heavy towel over the cylinder head, pull the run/stop lever forward, if you can get at the crankshaft pulley then turn her over by hand once or twice, then use the starter motor, keep it turning until you see the oil pressure gauge moving. Then all should be well. replace injectors and go for a start up.
 
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