getting paint, whether epoxy or not, to stick to non ferrous isnt easy. What often happens is that a bare edge or hole through the coating to bare metal allows corrosion to start and this travels under the paint at the interface between paint and metal . Almost a parallel to how oxides form where stainless fittings are screwed into ally. If you can get a full impervious surface coating that adheres well, then you have a chance. But with skin fittings, by definition, a part will always be bare metal.
That's interesting. I used it on a propeller once u der Trilux but because it's water soluble it simply dissolved. I assume that when overcoated with Coppercoat it's completely sealed but what about the hole in the skin fitting, doesn't detachment start from there as another reply suggests?
It is water based but not soluble once dry. I have had the same coat of primer on my prop for 10 years! I only abrade off the Velox and leave the primer alone.
How do you do that without removing the primer as well? This time I used H-SMP and Velox like yourself. The velox has flaked off the SMP in quite a few places. I didn't have this problem with the Velox metal primer. I used SMP this time because I found the Velox topcoat tended to soften the velox primer when brushed. I'll probably end up removing the lot and start from scratch again - it will probably be quicker in the long run. A shame as the SMP has really stuck to the prop. It's a pity it has no anti-fouling properties!
I only abrade lightly and the primer remains in situ. I originally abraded the primer with 180 grit, to which the Velox has adhered well. I only used HSMP originally because I had a full pot but subsequently read of various problems with Velox' own.
