Coppercoat: is sanding before launching necessary?

MapisM said:
Thanks M, a very interesting update indeed.
I'd subscribe to achieving a result comparable to yours - time will tell...

Just one Q, you seem to NOT have CC-ed non-fiberglass bits, any reason for that?
Based on my researches and suggestions received, I had CC applied on just about everything u/w: flaps and their cylinders (piston rods aside, obviously), rudders, P bracket, external part of seacocks.
Essentially, only for the props and their shafts I'm going to use a "normal" a/f (International Trilux, based on yard suggestion).
I'm not holding my breath anyway, but after speaking with someone who is at his third CC-ed boat, he told me that he gave up trying to have CC sticking to props for any meaningful amount of time, so I thought it was pointless to try...
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Nothing sticks to props - EXCEPT ?LOODY BARNACLES
Particularly CC - IMO, there was a reaction between the bronze props and the CC - because it just peeled off.

My solution over the last 4 years has been to polish the big props and Trilux (International A/F Product) the thruster props.
Polish the P brackets, Polish the Trim Tabs - paint the tab motors with Trilux

We get particularly cheap lift and scrub/pressure washes here so a quick lift (talking about 2 hours in all) and she is as clean as you see above.
 
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Hurricane said:
Nothing sticks to props - EXCEPT ?LOODY BARNACLES
Particularly CC - IMO, there was a reaction between the bronze props and the CC - because it just peeled off.

My solution over the last 4 years has been to polish the big props and Trilux (International A/F Product) the thruster props.
Polish the P brackets, Polish the Trim Tabs - paint the tab motors with Trilux

We get particularly cheap lift and scrub/pressure washes here so a quick lift (talking about 2 hours in all) and she is as clean as you see above.
Click to expand...

have you seen the result from jez's latest snake oil? (not a trick question - I haven't!)
 
My coppercoat didn't work well the first year with no abrasion before launch, then while it was out of the water someone gave it a light sanding by mistake (they were supposed to do the boat next to it!) and it worked much better thereafter.
 
Nick_H said:
My coppercoat didn't work well the first year with no abrasion before launch, then while it was out of the water someone gave it a light sanding by mistake (they were supposed to do the boat next to it!) and it worked much better thereafter.
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LOL, funny story indeed. Which seals the deal on pre-sanding, anyway! :encouragement:

Can someone just confirm me what is exactly the scotchbrite stuff which was previously mentioned?
By googling around, I found several different products branded as such... :confused:
 
MapisM said:
LOL, funny story indeed. Which seals the deal on pre-sanding, anyway! :encouragement:

Can someone just confirm me what is exactly the scotchbrite stuff which was previously mentioned?
By googling around, I found several different products branded as such... :confused:
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Just a scouring pad.
I think it is a kind of English colloquialism.
The company Scotch were probably the first to make it.
Until this year, I have used those big brown plastic scouring pads that you often find in chanslers.
When using it, it doesn't seem to do anything visually to the CC
Thats why we have cut back harder this year using sandpaper.
 
Intuitively I would doubt whether a nylon scouring pad would remove a layer of epoxy, even water based epoxy, but Elessar is the expert, so if he says it works then I guess it must. Personally i'd play safe and sand it. You'll know at the first lift whether it worked - if it's still brown it didn't work, if it has turned green then it did.
 
Hurricane said:
Just a scouring pad.
Click to expand...
Aha, thanks a lot.
Actually, I half guessed that the following thing is what Elessar meant, but intuitively it seemed not strong enough, to my totally unexperienced eyes.
Elessar, considering also what NH said, your final confirmation would be appreciated - TIA! :)
3m-scotchbrite.png
 
P.,

there are also scratch on pads for 125mm or 150mm orbital sanders at different grit.
You could use them instead, easier on the arms for whoever does it.

cheers

V.
 
I’m in Swansea which is brackish rather than full salt water. When I first had cc applied it turned brown and never really started working properly. During lasts years lift out I lightly abraded the hull with green scouring pads. I also made up a very strong hot salt soulution and sprayed the cc with this. After 3 days still ashore the cc started to go green. It has transformed the way it has worked since.
 
MapisM said:
Aha, thanks a lot.
Actually, I half guessed that the following thing is what Elessar meant, but intuitively it seemed not strong enough, to my totally unexperienced eyes.
Elessar, considering also what NH said, your final confirmation would be appreciated - TIA! :)
3m-scotchbrite.png
Click to expand...

It's 3M so looks good.
They do loads https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Manufacturing/Abrasives/Hand-Pads/Scotch-Brite/?N=5002385+8709320+8710644+8711017+8711730+8710964+3294857497&rt=r3
 
Elessar said:
It's 3M so looks good.
Click to expand...
Thanks M, I also got your pm in the meantime. The stuff which was eventually used was not exactly the one in my previous pic - red rather than green, and in roto-orbital sander discs, but essentially the same stuff.

The boat went back in the water yesterday, time will tell!
Btw, she's now temporarily in a fresh water marina along a river, where she's going to stay for about one week.
Can that matter in some ways, for CC?
 
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