antiquity
New Member
what is the best way to remove copper nails and roves without damaging the rib or plank
copper nail removal
- Thread starter antiquity
- Start date
KenMcCulloch
Well-Known Member
The first thing is to remove the rove from the inside end. Remove the peened end of the nail by filing or by centre punching and then drilling, or with an angle grinder. You can tell when you have filed/driiled/ angle grinded enough as you will see the square section of the nail in the middle of the rove. Flick the rove off with an old chisel or a sharp screwdriver.
Now, using a suitable punch, whack the nail out a few mm. You only need to punch it out enough to get a claw hammer under the nail head on the outside of the boat. When punching you may also want to have an assistant holding a dolly ( a heavy lump of metal basically) against the planking adjacent to, but not actually on top of, the nail head.
Now, using a suitable punch, whack the nail out a few mm. You only need to punch it out enough to get a claw hammer under the nail head on the outside of the boat. When punching you may also want to have an assistant holding a dolly ( a heavy lump of metal basically) against the planking adjacent to, but not actually on top of, the nail head.
ADLS
Well-Known Member
I second that, having spent several days helping a friend doube up and replace damaged ribs on his Thornycroft rebuild.
old_salt
Well-Known Member
If I may add my 2p.
I would use a pair of Joiners cantilever Pincers to cut the head off the riveted / peened end it will save all the grindings from going every where,
You will need them to cut off the excess of the new nail when you re-rivet. that should be about the diameter of the nail protruding above the rove when driven down the new nail.
Make a gauge from a piece of thin steel plate we used a 1/16 x 1/2" bit of bar to make out gauge the grinding of the cutters edge added enough to make the nail just right for riveting up
Drop it over the nail and rove placing the cutters fermly against it you will them be able to cut them off all the same,
You will need a hollow dolly to compleat the peened end and make it look nice, as said somewhere in here a lady's nylon is the tester it should NOT snag but may be that is going a bit too far in this day and age.
I if you are just replacing all the nails don't be tempted to remove all the rivets in a rib. do 3 or 4 and every other one at a time.
Don't be tempted to just whack out the nail it will run the risk of bursting out a piece of your planking around the nail head.
Then get your helper to hold up with a hollow dolly on the out side with a hole that is only just bigger the the head of the nail the outer diameter of the dolly wants to be generously bigger to protect the planks.
We made ours from a piece of 1 ins dia bar 8+ins long with a hole 3/8" dia, and rounded the other end to make it comfortable to hold up.
We had no problems with any broken out holes after the first one where we very quickly learnt a lesson.
Cheers and I hope all this helps.
You and he will need to have a good lesion so you are both on the same nail. It may be difficult for him to judge just which nail you are on, on the inside if the out side paint is good, so a few GENTLE taps should establish the right nail it should begin to show a ring of broken paint.
Then he should hold up the dolly over the nail head and you tap it out it may need a good hit to free it but then taps should be sufficient anything heaver will run the risk of blowing out a chunk of the out side of the plank.
If you are just replacing the nails may be a size up will help it may require re drilling if the new nail is very difficult to drive in.
This is my experience after riveting up some 3,000 nails in
Mercia III.
I would use a pair of Joiners cantilever Pincers to cut the head off the riveted / peened end it will save all the grindings from going every where,
You will need them to cut off the excess of the new nail when you re-rivet. that should be about the diameter of the nail protruding above the rove when driven down the new nail.
Make a gauge from a piece of thin steel plate we used a 1/16 x 1/2" bit of bar to make out gauge the grinding of the cutters edge added enough to make the nail just right for riveting up
Drop it over the nail and rove placing the cutters fermly against it you will them be able to cut them off all the same,
You will need a hollow dolly to compleat the peened end and make it look nice, as said somewhere in here a lady's nylon is the tester it should NOT snag but may be that is going a bit too far in this day and age.
I if you are just replacing all the nails don't be tempted to remove all the rivets in a rib. do 3 or 4 and every other one at a time.
Don't be tempted to just whack out the nail it will run the risk of bursting out a piece of your planking around the nail head.
Then get your helper to hold up with a hollow dolly on the out side with a hole that is only just bigger the the head of the nail the outer diameter of the dolly wants to be generously bigger to protect the planks.
We made ours from a piece of 1 ins dia bar 8+ins long with a hole 3/8" dia, and rounded the other end to make it comfortable to hold up.
We had no problems with any broken out holes after the first one where we very quickly learnt a lesson.
Cheers and I hope all this helps.
You and he will need to have a good lesion so you are both on the same nail. It may be difficult for him to judge just which nail you are on, on the inside if the out side paint is good, so a few GENTLE taps should establish the right nail it should begin to show a ring of broken paint.
Then he should hold up the dolly over the nail head and you tap it out it may need a good hit to free it but then taps should be sufficient anything heaver will run the risk of blowing out a chunk of the out side of the plank.
If you are just replacing the nails may be a size up will help it may require re drilling if the new nail is very difficult to drive in.
This is my experience after riveting up some 3,000 nails in
Mercia III.
Transcur
Well-Known Member
Just a small extra, probably a bit obvious really, remove the putty stopping from the outside before you punch the nail out or you will damage the hole onsiderably, tearing out somewood around the fastening. If you have lots to do a small angle gringer is quick and easy.
old_salt
Well-Known Member
The problem is finding them under umpteen layers of paint.
Thats why I suggested a very gentle tap will usually revel the spot.
Yes if the are visible dig the putty out first and I would still support with a hollow dolly, O and if using a claw hammer place something like a piece of 1/4 ply under it to protect the planks.
Thats why I suggested a very gentle tap will usually revel the spot.
Yes if the are visible dig the putty out first and I would still support with a hollow dolly, O and if using a claw hammer place something like a piece of 1/4 ply under it to protect the planks.
Mollyhawks
Member
Grinding the rove off or at least the peened end of the nail is the quickest ( so I have found ,having recently removed the thick end of 200 of them) but it does generate a lot of heat and you can end up with scorch marks to the face of the rib, not a problem if you replace with a slightly larger diameter rove but with the same size you can end up with a dark halo around the new rove, not nice if the're on show.
Keith 66
Well-Known Member
Having refastened several clinker boats & done uncounted repairs i use either an angle grinder with sanding disc or even better a black & decker powerfile which is really made for the job. just touch it to the riveted end and its ready to knock out.
Stella08
New Member
I'm hoping to do some refastening on my Stella this winter - what would you guys suggest where I can't get at the rove with a hammer. Sillicon bronze screws and if so where should these be placed?