dawnsall
Well-Known Member
I'm considering putting copper coat on my steel boat seeing as it needs blasting. I'd love to hear from anybody who has done this please. Thanks
Copper coat on a steel boat
- Thread starter dawnsall
- Start date
greenalien
Well-Known Member
From the FAQ at http://coppercoat.com/f-a-q
"Does Coppercoat cause any problems with regards to electrolytic/galvanic action?
No. With the resin carrier insulating each copper sphere, the final coating is inert and non-conductive. A current can not pass through Coppercoat and this coating does not cause or promote electrolysis or cathodic decay. Consequently Coppercoat can be safely applied to metal structures such as iron keels and steel or aluminium craft (after the application of an appropriate epoxy primer). The property of electrical non-conduction in metallic powders including copper was first discovered in 1890 by Eduard Branley and is known as the “Branley Effect”. Sacrificial anodes should be fitted in the usual manner."
"Does Coppercoat cause any problems with regards to electrolytic/galvanic action?
No. With the resin carrier insulating each copper sphere, the final coating is inert and non-conductive. A current can not pass through Coppercoat and this coating does not cause or promote electrolysis or cathodic decay. Consequently Coppercoat can be safely applied to metal structures such as iron keels and steel or aluminium craft (after the application of an appropriate epoxy primer). The property of electrical non-conduction in metallic powders including copper was first discovered in 1890 by Eduard Branley and is known as the “Branley Effect”. Sacrificial anodes should be fitted in the usual manner."
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
My iron keel is Coppercoated. The performance of the A/F is superb but its adhesion to the keel is totally dependent upon the quality of the blasting and the system between the iron/steel and the Coppercoat. My first application lasted 10 years, upon which the rust got beneath the epoxy in a big way and it failed dramatically. The second application was done professionally, epoxy primed and faired, then I applied the Coppercoat. Done in Greece, so conditions could hardly be better. Rust spots are appearing after three years and although I have repaired them I fear the overall system is not good enough.
So the message is to be absolutely meticulous in preparation, do the job in warm and dry, plenty of primer coats before the A/F. You may then manage the years that will make the expense worthwhile.
So the message is to be absolutely meticulous in preparation, do the job in warm and dry, plenty of primer coats before the A/F. You may then manage the years that will make the expense worthwhile.
KellysEye
Well-Known Member
I've mentioned this before but if you want to protect against rust coming back after sandblastinng the first coat must be zinc rich epoxy. Then apply a couple of coats of normal epoxy primer. The paint must be applied within fifteen to twenty minutes otherwise flash rusting can occur. On that basis it's best to do the blasting in stages and protect the epxoy from dust with a cover from the deck to ground.
