Converting from Boom Reefing to Slab

[CHARLIECARAKUS]

I have a Cutlass 27 with Boom reefing that I would like to change to Slab.

I am purchasing a new main so I don't need to make any alterations to the main, but I would need to make some to the Gooseneck and Boom.

Does anyone have any experience or advice, or do I need to shell out on a new boom?????

 

[stevebirch2002]

I helped a friend change his Centaur to slab reefing. Not a difficult job. Have a look at his web page: Blue Moonlight Look under refitting Spring/Summer 2005 All self explanatory. Cheers Steve

 

[CHARLIECARAKUS]

Steve

Thanks for the quick reply

 

[William_H]

Have a searchy for "Reefing Problems" posted by Dimond about 7 Jan 2006.
I wrote a speal which may help you understand the considerations.
I would recommend bringing reefing lines back to the cockpit. I also recommend having a separate reefing line to the tack like a cunningham eye. good luck olewill

 

[bobgosling]

Link to Blue Moonlight doesn't work ( page not found ) and no search results for "Reefing Problems" or Dimond /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I would be very interested in doing this too !

 

[wooslehunter]

Checked out the link since I'm doing the same mod this winter.

There are 2 "http://"s in the link. Here's a new one that works.

 

[Mudhook]

I've done this with my Sabre 27. The first item is some kind of one-off ram's-horn fitting to take the tack and reef tacks. Don't order your sail until this is fitted. Then you'll need a small attachment fitting, bolt-on turning block and a cleat for each reef point, fitted to the boom. Make sure the reefing lines give some aft pull to tighten the foot, so don't put the fittings directly below the reef cringles. Despite the halliard being on the mast and the reef lines on the boom, I can reef easily inside a minute. Let go mainsheet, let go kicker, drop halliard to appropriate point and hook up reef tack, tighten halliard and make fast, pull appropriate reefing line tight and make fast, on with the kicker and mainsheet and you're away!

To avoid confusion, I have reef lines colour coded green and amber, so you're always certain which one (and which side of the boom) to pull in or shake out. With three reef lines it's green, amber, red for breeze, big wind, and gale! My third reef line isn't fitted and instead I use a spare length of line - in theory. Have never yet needed third reef.

I hope this is some help.

Regards, Mudhook.

 

[stevebirch2002]

Link Corrected

Sorry post link didnt seem to work, try this:

Blue Moonlight

 

[Sea Devil]

Re: Link Corrected

I altered my Moody 36 to slab reefing when I was in Malta - I used exactly the same track and blocks as Blue Moonlight but with 3 blocks. I riveted it on. I used 3 jam cleats on the boom at the mast end so that the reefing lines were always held in place - I would have been better to put a small winch on the boom between cleats and mast.
At the goose neck I solved the lack of horns problem by using a long shackle and getting a yard to weld a couple of horns onto it. Got me round the world.........
Have to go to the mast to reef but have granny bars and it is normally no hassle, fast and effective.
I used my original sail and had a loft put in reefing points and lines. The only problem with that was the slugs in the mast slide were not adjusted so I had to open the 'gate' to get the excess sail out when putting in the 2nd and 3ed reef. When the new main came it was measured for this purpose and I did not have to touch the gate.

 

[Bodach na mara]

Re: Link Corrected

I did it on my Westerly Renown. I did not use a ram's horn at the gooseneck, I used a snap shackle there. At the outer end, I worked out the position for the reefing line by stretching the sail along the boom and marking the crinkle position. I then allowed 3" more to the block position and fixed the block on one side and an attachment for the line end opposite on the other side. The object is to achieve a 45 degree angle between boom and line to pull the sail out and down. The line is led through the block, up through the crinkle and back down to the attachment point. The business end of the line goes in through a slot forward of the block and comes out about 3 feet from the gooseneck to a cleat.

In use, the strain needs to be taken off the sail by using the topping lift. The haliard is eased and the luff crinkle attached to the snap shackle. With the boom topped up and sheet eased right off, the reefing line in hauled in and made fast. Ease off the topper, sheet in and you're off again. It takes less time than it took me to type this.

 

[William_H]

Re: Link Corrected

Try a search under William_H around 7Jan.
I think the horn at the gooseneck leaves a danger of the tack cringle falling off when not under tension. What I did was set up a pulley and saddle either side of the mast below the gooseneck and as far forward as possible (on the side of the mast.) Another reefing line is used at the tack (gooseneck) This runs from the saddle on the side of the mast up through the cringle and back down to the pulley (you can use a saddle to guide the rope) then down to a turning block at the base of the mast hence to a halyard type winch jammer or cleat. When the reef is pulled in this line provides a 45 degree pull of the tack cringle forward and down. Of course this means reefing anjd unreefing from the cockpit halyard winches.
It is also a convenient way to effect a cunningham eye system when reefed. ie you can use this reef line to apply extra luff tension by pulling the tack down if you can't get enough by pulling the halyard up.

You need a decent slug at the head of the mast if you don't use slugs but rely on the bolt rope. with the head of the sail about 1 metre down from the halyard pulley it relies on the slug (or bolt rope) to hold the sail into the mast when you yank on the main sheet. When fully up the halyard usually pulls the head into the mast as well as up to counteract this force.
If you use the bolt rope as I do then this must be curt away at the head and a slug fitted. if you don't the bollt rope can be pulled out of the track jamming tight. good luck olewill

 

[jimbouy]

Re: Link Corrected

Now I know why I got 105 unique visitors to my web page on the 15th.

All welcome of course!

 

[Lee_Shaw]

I've done this to mine too.

First thing I'd recommend is to get a loose footed main.

Fit three cheek blocks towards the end of the boom. (I've got 2 one side and 1 the other right at the end of the boom just before the rotating end piece) There is no need to bother with the barton track as shown on moonlight if the sail is loose footed.

The reefing lines for the clew end are tied loosely round the boom and find their own position ok. As you probly know the lines can then go to cleats at the gooseneck or led back to the cockpit using triple swivel blocks, deck organisers and clutches.

Then either fit a couple of hooks at the mast for the cringles or feed these back to the cockpit in a similar manner to above. I put hooks on originally but am now in the process of leading all my lines back. I'm keeping the hooks though in case there's some sort of foul up.

 

[Phoenix of Hamble]

[ QUOTE ]
Then either fit a couple of hooks at the mast for the cringles or feed these back to the cockpit in a similar manner to above. I put hooks on originally but am now in the process of leading all my lines back. I'm keeping the hooks though in case there's some sort of foul up.

[/ QUOTE ]Thats exactly what I am doing too.... I am also going to have a go at seizing the two seperate control lines together every 12" or so back to the cockpit so that I can use a single clutch and reef more quickly as well... I can't see that I won't work as the lines are the same length... I figure there is no harm in trying it, as if it doesn't work well, I'll just remove the seizing and use them as two seperate lines....